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I do not have a video reference but coping is really no big deal. Cut the moulding like you would for an inside miter. I paint the moulding before installation and then touch-up after. The paint makes it easier to see the intersection of the cut part and the finished surface. Another way to see the intersection is to rub a pencil along it. I don't do that because the crown is white and the pencil lead would be hard to cover. All you do is use the coping saw to follow the intersection of the finished surface with the miter with the blade on the miter side. You also want the coping saw blade tilted so it removes more material on the side of the crown you will use - back cut it. If you follow the line OK but do not backcut enough, you can solve that with a knife or rasp.
Especially at the start and I've done several rooms and I still do this, put marks on the wall and ceiling to show you where the moulding should be. You won't get tight joints if each piece is at a little different angle. I put the marks where the studs and ceiling joists are so they are right where I want to nail.
I also like to use pieces of scrap around 3 feet long to figure out how to cut the finished piece. I can then fine tune the cut on the scrap and know I will be cutting my finish piece right. This process will also give you some extra practice time.
Jim
Especially at the start and I've done several rooms and I still do this, put marks on the wall and ceiling to show you where the moulding should be. You won't get tight joints if each piece is at a little different angle. I put the marks where the studs and ceiling joists are so they are right where I want to nail.
I also like to use pieces of scrap around 3 feet long to figure out how to cut the finished piece. I can then fine tune the cut on the scrap and know I will be cutting my finish piece right. This process will also give you some extra practice time.
Jim
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