Molding Help...Crown and Trim

[Navycraig]

Thanks in advance for any help and advice.

I'll be installing crown molding on 3 walls of our dining room. I've done a lot of reading and watched several videos on the web, but want some personal opinions on the best cut to use for inside corners. Will I get the best finished product by using a straight miter cut, a compound miter/bevel cut or by coping? I've practiced the coping cut and did not do very good, but I suppose that like anything...it takes time to learn. If that's the best option, I'll keep practicing.

Second situation: I'm using trim molding to finish the edges of a bar top. It's used to finish the edge off and also contain the glass that will be on the top. My question is this...to cut the angles, 22.5 degree angles in this case, do I have to use the "upside down and backwards" approach like I see talked about for crown molding or do I just place the trim on my CMS like it would be on the edge of the bar?

Input greatly appreciated.

[jhart]

The best way to do inside corners with crown moulding is coping. It's a "Bit*h" to get it right, especially the first couple of times you try it. After a couple of times, you start to get the hang of it and while it isn't much easier, they come out looking good in the corners. I'd suggest you do practice runs on a couple and see if it doesn't help.

[os1kne]

Yes, coping is definitely better. I'm not very good at it, but it definitely gets easier/better with a bit of practice. You may also need to "clean-up" sections that don't turn out quite right by filing/sanding.

Good luck!

[ChrisD]

I have not done any coping that is more complex than baseboards, but I can tell you that using a 20tpi jigsaw blade makes a world of difference in terms of control and of course quality of the cut. This is even more critical for crown which generally has more intricate profile than a baseboard.

[lrr]

Thanks in advance for any help and advice.

I'll be installing crown molding on 3 walls of our dining room.

Input greatly appreciated.

Check out Rockler's crown molding jig for your miter saw. I think I paid $15 for it. I bought a piece of oak crown for a king-sized headboard, and making those cuts in a $65 piece of crown was a little un-nerving! The jig even has pictures that show orientation of the wood for inside/outside/left/right, to ease the confusion.

Cuts came out perfect -- and this was my first use of crown molding.

Best of luck!

[crokett]

A master carpenter friend of my Dad's taught me how to install moulding when I was 14. He coped all his cuts and also cut it about 1/8" long. The moulding flexes enough to get it in and it jams itself in to close any gaps so no caulking required. I still have the coping saw he gave me.

[cabinetman]

I use coped cuts for inside corners and have also done them with a miter cut and got tight fits. I do get lucky at times. For the coped end, maintain enough angle so there is no interference to the fit. For the add on moulding, just cut it as it would sit on the edge. If it is very small, or tall, make a holding jig to press it against the fence. If you can keep track of which is up/down, you could cut with the moulding flat. I like to cut so the blade enters the face when using a MS.

[Navycraig]

Thanks

Thanks for all of the input. I have been practicing coping for the last few nights and while I can see an improvement, the LOML says that the miter cuts still look better in the corner. I'll probably give the cope one last shot tonight and if I don't get better, I'll miter and putty as needed. I hate the thought of putty as I'm sort of a proud perfectionist, but she's getting a little tired of waiting...and the sticks of crown laying around being in the way.
Thanks again.

[crokett]

Coping is a little harder to learn but in the long run is quicker. Not nearly as fussy as keeping a tight miter. I've never had to caulk a cope. I've had to caulk a miter.

[drunkcat]

Does anyone know of a video clip showing coping? I have never been able to figure this out on my own successfully...I was going to bite the bullet and purchase the Rockler coping jig for the jig saw next time.

Thanks

[crokett]

Does anyone know of a video clip showing coping? I have never been able to figure this out on my own successfully...I was going to bite the bullet and purchase the Rockler coping jig for the jig saw next time.

Thanks

Here's one from TOH. Tom Silva actually covers more than just coping in it.

http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/video/wallsceilings/article/0,26206,1181576,00.html

[Navycraig]

He sure makes it look easy.

[should_have]

Coping with a JigSaw

I like using a jigsaw, see link. Clean up with file or Dremel Tool(drum sander), but be carefull with a dremel tool.

http://www.miterclamp.com/Installing_crown_molding.htm

[Stormbringer]

The LOML says that the miter cuts still look better in the corner. I'll probably give the cope one last shot tonight and if I don't get better, I'll miter and putty as needed.

Of course they do when they're held freehand and butted together. The main reason for having to cope inside corners is to compensate for the guarenteed deviasions where the walls meet the ceiling. Remember, that's where there's tape and a few layers on compound. If their plaster walls you'll probably have wire mesh buried under a thick layer of plaster. This is what kicks the wall and ceiling out of that perfect 90 alignment that mitered inside corners love so much.

Now, I'm not saying you can't play the "angle adjustment - caulking game". That's how I did mine the first time but, as previosly mentioned, it was a b*tch. Although it took 10 times as long it came out pretty decent if I do say so myself .

If you elect to go the mitered corner route, I highly, highly recommend making a few left and right "sample" inside corners of 2ft sections at 44, 45, and 46 degrees. This will help prevent you from having to make trip after trip back to the miter saw with a large pieces of crown while futzing around with angler adjustments. Also, when you get it where you want it, use a ROS and knock down the profile on the back of the cut. This is an aggressive way to cope 3/4 of the way so to say. I recommend the sanding for the outside corners as well. Helps tremendously!

Don't forget your nailer behind the crown.

I've since bought this and it makes life much easier as I swore never to go through the miter headache again.

EDIT:
Whoa. I just viewed ShouldHave's video link. I don't know about you but I do not like the idea of putting my fingers a 1/2" in front of a blade. I mean, I guess you could cut crown that way but what I linked to above takes the "accident-waiting-to-happen" out of the equation. Be safe than sorry.

Best of luck,
Greg

[wade78]

My main question:

Are you painting the crown? If so, just make a compound cut and caulk. I just finished putting up crown in my entire house (~1000 linear feet), and all the corners look perfect after caulking and painting. If you are putting up stained crown, then yes, you should probably figure out how to cope.