How would I do this
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Not sure I understand the problem -- is it that you don't have a plunge router? Or do you have a straight bit that's not exactly meant for plunging?
Keep in mind, you don't have to start with the router at one end. You can start somewhere in the middle, plunge in, then go to one end, and reverse course to the other end.
Then, use any of a number of dado jigs, with some stops tacked on.
Regards,
Tom
ok, lemme try again.
the dado jigs i have seen (here and elsewhere) and understood the use of, work like this -
(a) clamp the jig with its cutting-guide-edge(s) aligned to the the desired dado line(s)
(b) position the router on the jig, with the bit at the exact depth as needed, but not touching the workpiece - just slightly outside it's edge.
(c) when the router is started, the bit rotates in thin air, and i move the router onto the workpiece within the jig's guides and thus rout the dado. keep moving the router till it clears the workpiece at the other end.
and if i understand all your post(s), i could do all that with a plunge router, except that i'd plunge the spinning router bit into the workpiece and take it out before i reach the other end. and i guess those stop-blocks might be vital for exact positioning.
NOW i get it!!! thanks for being patient
and i need crokett's beer now.It is the mark of an educated mind to be able to entertain a thought without accepting it.
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Router Dado Jig
Here is a general, simple idea for a jig to use with a router to make stopped dados. Not my original idea, saw it some magazine a while back. Save attached zip file then open with Word or WordPad.Last edited by ragswl4; 12-20-2008, 05:10 PM.RAGS
Raggy and Me in San Felipe
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If you extend one of the side boards and put a tab there then you can also use that to index to the last slot and get consistent spacing of the slots.Loring in Katy, TX USA
If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questionsComment
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