Just how straight is an All-In-One edge clamp?

[WoodTherapist]

Straightness is not really the issue, IMHO. Both start out just fine. The real deal seems to be stiffness and the tools' ability to MAINTAIN its straightness.

With a chunk or two of 2x4 carefully clamped to the backside of your clamp, you can assure minimal flex and a darned good cut or routing pass. Been there, done both!

That is another good point. For some straight edges, it is a good idea to do whatever is necessary to insure that it doesn’t flex. I don’t think that is necessary for the E-Z smart. It is definitely not necessary for the Festool guide and saw because there are no sideways forces to contend with. The saw rides on top of the guide rail and all he forces are downward.

[lcm1947]

Thanks guys. I suppose that either would be pretty straight but just wanted to see if anybody that actually owns one had a comment that they weren't. I don't fancy buying either if I have to back them up to insure stiffness.

[Stormbringer]

It is definitely not necessary for the Festool guide and saw because there are no sideways forces to contend with. The saw rides on top of the guide rail and all he forces are downward.

Same for the All-in-One with the $20 saw plate. No extra bracing or wood block support necessary. Straight for the length of the guide and made to very high tolerances with an excellent single lever clamp.

If you have 10 minutes to kill, read my posts in this thread http://www.bt3central.com/showthread...023#post234023


Greg

[lcm1947]

Thanks Stormbring. So you believe that the all- in-one routes or saws just as accurate as the Festool or E-Z as long as you use the plates then. It sure would be cheaper.

[Stormbringer]

Thanks Stormbringer. So you believe that the all- in-one routes or saws just as accurate as the Festool or E-Z as long as you use the plates then. It sure would be cheaper.

Yes, I believe that. They all do the same thing- cut in a straight line some, perhaps, with more accuracy but you would have a hard time convincing me. I have not used the festool but it looks like looks like fine systems if you have money to piss on their saw, their router, their sanders etc...


My main reason for purchasing the four AIO's: I wanted versitlity and to be able to use the tool$ i've accumulated with the guide (router, jigsaw, rotozip, circular saw). Each of those tools could, at times, benefit from a straight edge guide and - as I said in the other thread - the two more $$$ systems don't let you do that unless you buy their attachments which are $$$. I've had no problems with the AIO's. Others that have bought them have had no problems. They are lightweight, rigid as can be, and clamp down tight with a push of a lever. Simple. I have never experienced any flexing or bowing.

I stated my rationale in that dissertation of a thread. These are my opinions. Read the other thread I referenced in that post too. That's how I discovered the AIO's. Search other forums...sawmill has a board devoted to just Festool vs Eurekazone.

As I stated in the other thread, I just think you get more "bang for your buck" and more versitily with the AIO's. $165 for the whole shabang can't be beat IMHO, YMMV.

You want free? MAKE A SAWBOARD. I can't imagine anybody needing greater accuracy than what they can provide. The AIO's with the attachment plates just assure you of the accuracy (which is the same philosophy as the Eurkeazone and the festool - Let the saw ride the rail instead of exerting force on the saw to keep it up against the guide as in the case of the sawboard).

Best,
Greg

[Stormbringer]

I have three of these clamps ... one 24", two 50". The 24" has the extra track on top for the attachment of accessories or guides; the 50" are flat topped.

The shorter length of the 24" and the extra ribbing of the track on top makes it pretty stiff laterally. The 50" are more limber and will definitely deflect sideways a little bit if you lean on them. Nowhere near enough to be a problem when used as an edge guide for a circular saw, but nowhere near as rigid as the cast iron tables on a jointer, either.

I have not checked either size for straightness but I think I can say without doing so that they're not a device I'd trust to get jointer-quality edges for a panel glue up. I'm thinking they would fall into your "just kinda straight" niche.

Larry, these don't sound like the All-In-One's. Are you sure your not talking about the TruGrips I saw hanging in your shop?

Greg

[LinuxRandal]

I am also now looking at the E-Z smart mainly due to the price compared to the Festool . Anybody know if it's straight enough to edge boards with for table tops or is the Festool the straightest?

I've been on and off for so short of times the last few days I have missed this. I believe you could get straight edges with the ez, and I believe someone built a table and displayed it on the forums over at Sawmill Creek.

I have the stuff to do it (tool wise), but haven't had the time (hoping to do some projects in spring.)

Conceivably though, my hours could be doubling in the near future.

[lcm1947]

Thanks again Stormbringer. It's hard not to let the money not be a factor in my decision. I think I'll go down to WoodCraft and check both the Festool and the AIO's out. As I remember they have a pretty good inventory of both. I am somewhat concerned about having to replace parts of either the Festool or E-Z, thinking more money whereas the AIO's seem pretty simple with no parts to wear out, etc to worry about. Not sure about the Festool but the E-Z has some sort of strip alone the edge of the base you have to replace occasionally. That could be trouble or at less costly.

[LinuxRandal]

Made it to the woodworking show, and Woodcraft today. I got to handle the Festool. The saw isn't captive on the rails, and can be tilted, so you could still have the issue of a non 90 degree cut.

[guycox]

One trick that can be used is to get the board "close" and run the saw down between both of them, that way it doesn't matter if the line is straight or not. As long as the saw cuts both board at the same time and you get then back together latterally, the match will be perfect.

This is the same way the 5 log canoes were jointed together.. Except that an axe was used..

[guycox]

One trick that can be used is to get the board "close" and run the saw or a router down between both of them, that way it doesn't matter if the line is straight or not. As long as the saw cuts both board at the same time and you get then back together latterally, the match will be perfect.

This is the same way the 5 log canoes were jointed together.. Except that an axe was used..

[lcm1947]

Hey guycox. I actually saw that technique in a magazine not to long ago or something similar. It looks like a good way but this article was about a router doing the cutting although I can see maybe being able to do it with a CS too. This particular article was demonstrating how this technique could be used for longer boards that other methods of cutting would be difficult. After studying the pictures however it looks like you could only do it with rather somewhat wider boards like maybe 6 inches or more otherwise the clamps holding the boards down would interfere with the path of the router.