Just how straight is an All-In-One edge clamp?

[lcm1947]

I know that they are straight enough to cut down plywood sheets but are they truly straight enough to be used say for example to joint wide boards together. Are they as straight as a true straight edge or just kinda straight meaning off by 1/16" or 1/32".

[LarryG]

I have three of these clamps ... one 24", two 50". The 24" has the extra track on top for the attachment of accessories or guides; the 50" are flat topped.

The shorter length of the 24" and the extra ribbing of the track on top makes it pretty stiff laterally. The 50" are more limber and will definitely deflect sideways a little bit if you lean on them. Nowhere near enough to be a problem when used as an edge guide for a circular saw, but nowhere near as rigid as the cast iron tables on a jointer, either.

I have not checked either size for straightness but I think I can say without doing so that they're not a device I'd trust to get jointer-quality edges for a panel glue up. I'm thinking they would fall into your "just kinda straight" niche.

[jackellis]

I'd agree with Larry. I just jointed a set of boards for a panel glue-up and they're still not as perfectly straight as I'd like. Your technique with a circulat saw would have to be perfect or better to joint with a saw guide.

[SARGE..g-47]

I just ran down to the shop and threw a machinist square on a 24". Not bad.. but I would be leary of using it to joint an edge for glue-up as Larry and Jack. The clamp was close but I did see light between the clamp and machinest square and repeated the same with a trued winding stick edge.

I don't think the clamp would be the problem.. The problem would be in the fact that the clamp positioned on one cut may not be repeated exactly the same as the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, etc. without a fixed fence that carries that burden as on a TS, router table, etc.

The you have to involve circular saw arbor run-out, blade flex on a 7 1/4", etc. I just don't feel the factors associated with accurate repeatability are aligned with the stars.. moon.. etc.

But all thoughts are just that.. thoughts. Try it and see what happens.

Regards...

[Black wallnut]

I have a long one that I have used for jointing with a router to good results. However mine deos have a bit of play on the adjustable end which I've been able to work around by also using a "c" or "f" clamp to hold that end in place. YMMV

BTW I've never checked mine for straightness so I'm not sure just how straight it is but when I've used it I have not seen any gaps that were of concern to me.

[WoodTherapist]

For jointing and edge gluing hardwood boards up to 48” I have been using the Festool circular saw and included 55” guide rail. It produces very clean, straight edges with the blade that came with the saw and produces excellent edge-joints. What I like about it is that the setup time is nil, the results are consistently good, it is quick and relatively safe and there is very little sawdust to contend with if used with a vac system. Unfortunately, the same results cannot be obtained with other types of circular saws because of run-out, as mentioned previously. I wouldn’t buy a Festool saw and guide rail just for edge-joining, but it was one use that added to the value of the system that I didn’t anticipate.

[jussi]

What brand/model do you guys have? where did you get them?

[lcm1947]

Wells thanks for the replies. I thought as much but wanted to ask before buying one. So the Festool cuts that straight, Hmmmm.

[WoodTherapist]

What brand/model do you guys have? where did you get them?

I have the discontinued Festool ATF55E. The TS55EQ is the newer replacement which is even better because is has a retracting riving knife and blade changing is easier. It comes with a 55" guide rail. Bob Marino or McFeeley's are good sources.

[WoodTherapist]

Wells thanks for the replies. I thought as much but wanted to ask before buying one. So the Festool cuts that straight, Hmmmm.

My first project with the Festool saw was a melamine cabinet, so when I ordered the saw I also ordered an extra blade for melamine in order to minimize chipout. When the saw arriived I decided to practice on some melamine in order to get used to the saw before starting on the cabinet project. Because it was just for practice, I left the stock blade in the saw. But I got such a good cut without chipout that I finished half the melamine project before I remembered to put in the appropriate blade.

[lcm1947]

I am also now looking at the E-Z smart mainly due to the price compared to the Festool . Anybody know if it's straight enough to edge boards with for table tops or is the Festool the straightest?

[WoodTherapist]

Mac, I have seen the E-Z smart but not used it. I think it is probably very straight - the Festool guide is probably not any straighter. But if you use a circular saw for the edge, there will be no comparison to the Festool because of run-out. A regular circular saw is made for construction, where a Festool saw is better described as a portable cabinet making saw. But you can probably get a pretty decent edge with an E-Z smart/router combination. Others have. If you do try it, I would be interested to hear how it turns out.

[lcm1947]

An excellent point Woodtherapist about the Festool and runout. I should have figured that out myself. I do appreciate your reply. I am just now starting the research between the two but if and when I get one or the other I sure will let you know. The one thing that kinda bothers me about the Festool is the small ( IMO ) 10 amp motor. I have a DeWalt 15 amp and it's not what I'd consider overpowered so I wonder about a 10 amp.

[DeanKC]

Straightness is not really the issue, IMHO. Both start out just fine. The real deal seems to be stiffness and the tools' ability to MAINTAIN its straightness.

With a chunk or two of 2x4 carefully clamped to the backside of your clamp, you can assure minimal flex and a darned good cut or routing pass. Been there, done both!

[WoodTherapist]

An excellent point Woodtherapist about the Festool and runout. I should have figured that out myself. I do appreciate your reply. I am just now starting the research between the two but if and when I get one or the other I sure will let you know. The one thing that kinda bothers me about the Festool is the small ( IMO ) 10 amp motor. I have a DeWalt 15 amp and it's not what I'd consider overpowered so I wonder about a 10 amp.

Unless you are cutting something really exotic, I wouldn’t worry about the amps on the Festool. The Festool saws are designed for professional solid-surface countertop installers and hardwood floor installers, etc. and will hold up just fine to heavy use for the allowable depth of cut. There are other design factors that more than make up for the lower amperage.