jointer/ jointed boards

[p8ntblr]

2 questions....
1. Is there a way to get a jointed board without using a jointer? If so, how?

2. If I have say a 10 inch board can I use a 6 inch jointer OR will I need to get a 12 inch one?

[LCHIEN]

2 questions....
1. Is there a way to get a jointed board without using a jointer? If so, how?

2. If I have say a 10 inch board can I use a 6 inch jointer OR will I need to get a 12 inch one?

A jointer typically has two uses, edge jointing and face planing.
you need to be more specific about which you plan to do.

Recently there are several discussions about edge jointing with a router, on this BT3 central.

If you want to edge join a board , any width jointer will work regardless of the board width as long as the thickness is reasonable.

If you want to face plane a board I think the jointer width has to be big enough, you can't flip it and run the other way.

[p8ntblr]

A jointer typically has two uses, edge jointing and face planing.
you need to be more specific about which you plan to do.

Recently there are several discussions about edge jointing with a router, on this BT3 central.

If you want to edge join a board , any width jointer will work regardless of the board width as long as the thickness is reasonable.

If you want to face plane a board I think the jointer width has to be big enough, you can't flip it and run the other way.

I need to face plane some reclaimed wood.

[SARGE..g-47]

Evening P8...

(1).. Yes.. : assuming you are referring to face jointing the stock and not just edge jointed ( edge joint can be attained several ways), you can use a hand-plane to surface it. I did just an hour sp ago.

(2)Yes you can use a 6" jointer: I have a 6" jointer and surface 8" to 11" stock all the time. I would prefer a 12" jointer, but the 6' suffices for the moment and has sufficed for number ofm years.

To answer your 2nd question as to how to make it work.. well.. I will give you an idea and a warning at the same time.

You make two passes, half first pass and the other half on the second and ONLY AFTER.. AFTER.. after you have built an over-head bridge guard to attach to the fence.

Now the warning: Don't do this if you are new to a jointer before going through several explanations with someone experieced with this method and then absoulutely sure you understand. I personally will not tell anyone how over the inter-net. I will show you if you come to my shop where I can monitor you closely on check rides till I feel you've "got it".

Not trying to sound smug... this is just a very dangerour method for anyone less than very experienced with a face jointer and IMO thinking you understand and proceeding is not kwowing you understand before you proceed..

Regards...

[Jeffrey Schronce]

I agree with Sarge 100%, though I have to admit I don't use a bridge over the cutterhead.

I have gotten into the habit of having the sawmill face joint anything over 8" that is not going to be cut down to less than 8". They charge $.10 bf. Generally one doesn't work with a lot of stock over 8" wide due to potential for warping, cupping, checking and costs.

[atgcpaul]

I agree with Sarge 100%, though I have to admit I don't use a bridge over the cutterhead.

I have gotten into the habit of having the sawmill face joint anything over 8" that is not going to be cut down to less than 8". They charge $.10 bf. Generally one doesn't work with a lot of stock over 8" wide due to potential for warping, cupping, checking and costs.

The last time I bought lumber in town, I had the guy have his guy face plane
the stock for me. Thank goodness I don't work for OSHA. He did at least
turn on the dust collection but he had no ear/eye protection on, didn't use a
pushpad to move the boards over the blades, and there wasn't even a guard
installed on the jointer. They had an 8" jointer at least and none of my
boards were that wide. Scary stuff.

You can also face joint with a hand plane. I've had to do it but only on
smaller boards for a class assignment and that was on basswood. It can be
done but I don't think I'll be taking that router again.

Paul

[Muddler Mike]

see my PM regarding an article about a jointer sled for a planer...

muddler

[Lance]

You can also build a face jointing sled for a router and use a dish cutting bit. This gets you one flat surface that you can clean up with a hand plane, scraper, or power planer (benchtop, not hand!)

Depending how you do it, this can be either a planing (thickness) of jointing (flatness) operation. Here are a couple links below to a couple different implementations of this technique. I'm sure you can find more by searching. I found these with "router sled" and "router sled flatten".

Hope this helps!

-Lance




http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/i...n=Custom&ID=58


http://www.bt3central.com/showthread...ht=router+sled


http://www.bt3central.com/showthread...r+sled+flatten

[Tom Hintz]

2 questions....
1. Is there a way to get a jointed board without using a jointer? If so, how?

If you are talking about sraightening edges, you can do a good job with a router, though it always will be a compromise to a real jointer. See the link below for a story on those proceedures.

http://www.newwoodworker.com/jntwrtr.html

2. If I have say a 10 inch board can I use a 6 inch jointer OR will I need to get a 12 inch one?

I have seen sleds and such for planing the wide faces of boards that are larger than the jointer capacity but again, these are compromises. I have tried a few of these jigs and went with a planer. I have yet to buy a board wider than 11" anyway so plane everything to size before making glueups. With good technique, glueups need very little sanding to get ready for finishing.