Broadleaf Maple

[dsellinger]

Well the burl is most likely never gonna happen as it's just something I've seen and I have no idea who owns the place or what their plans are. But a guy can dream right?

But this is mine, a small load of western maple and 2 sections of a horse chestnut. I don't know if the chestnut is any good or not, but it's dang hard, and a very nice milky white, so it can't be all bad.

BTW, how is $300 a 1000 board ft for getting wood cut up here in Washington, anyone know? This is my first time.

[Workman]

Near Washington (D.C.) - 50 miles south - $300.00 for a 1000 board feet is about right. My sawyer has a set-up fee and works hourly, but I get about a 1000 board feet for $300.00. I like to have all my woods quarter-sawn (which takes longer and is more work but produces much better grain with less warp, and with oak the most prominent wood also brings out the ray flake). Have a team to help your sawyer and it will save you $$. Quartersawing your maple may also show you the best grain pattern(s) as well. But other woods are also better quarter sawn or rift sawn (look it up). Also know what you want before you start so that you can give exact widths to your sawyer. It will shrink some, but you have to plane and mill it after its cut to thickness and allow for this waste. Consider that it takes about a year to air dry 1" thick stock, but the thicker the piece (and the denser) the longer it takes. Make sure that you sticker and stack (and weight it down) carefully to avoid warp, twist, cup, etc. Anchorseal greatly reduces end checking. I have some oak trees (as you now have Maple and Chestnut) decorating my front yard! Time to get to work.