Resawing 102

[Greg.B]

Now that I have gotten a good blade, I know the saw is very capable of resawing. Also with a good blade I noticed, as has been said before, there is no drift. So my question is: How do you setup the fence in this case. Lets say I want to resaw to approx. 1/2". Well how do I go about getting the fence perpendicular to the blade. I was thinking of placing a straight edge along the blade (not resting on a tooth. Drawing a line, and measuring off that line to the fence. I just want to feed it straight.

[BrazosJake]

Greg,

What kinda fence do you have? Or are you just clamping something to the table? Either way, you can reference off of the mitre slot.

I don't have problems with blade drift so long as I use a fresh blade and track it to the center of the upper wheel. And don't cut curves with a resaw blade.

[LCHIEN]

A lot of people resaw using a single point of contact fence.
That is, a something that juts out from the flat fence, comes to a point or a rounded off /curved point next to the blade. So that theworkpiece is pressed to the point and kept at the resaw distance from the fence, and the piece can still be steered to keep the blade running down the resaw line.

[drumpriest]

I personally don't like the single point of contact fences, too much margin for error. Regardless of blade drift, you can set your fence angle using the same method. Take a 2x4, joint the face, plane the other parallel, giving you a nice 1 3/8" thick piece, draw a line parallel to the edge (joint that edge), and freehand cut along the line. After about 6" or 1 foot of cutting, stop, and use a sliding T bevel to get the angle. Setup your fence to that angle, you'll be parallel to your BS blade.

You can resaw very thin veneers with accuracy using this method, if you are resawing thicker, you just get more accuracy, which means less cleanup through the planer or drum sander.