can I cut this stuff?

[mackmack]

I want to cut this up into smaller squares. Can I do this on the Bt3? If not, what should I use?

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/pro...uct%5Fid=10477

Thanks for all help.

[Ken Massingale]

Yes, like the USP site says, use a fine tooth blade. The 1/16" stuff can be difficult, I have sandwiched it between 1/4" ply to cut it. Thicker stuff is fine, don't go too slow or it will start to melt. A fine tooth jigsaw blade works well also. Wear good safety glasses with side shields or a face guard, the fine cuttings go everywhere, and stick to everything when cut on the TS.

[LarryG]

If you'll excuse me for sticking my nose where it perhaps doesn't belong, what willl you be using this material for? If it's something like a bit guard or other shop accessory that will be near a cutterhead or blade, polycarbonate would be a better choice as it will not shatter the way acrylic sometimes can. It (polycarbonate) should also be more forgiving to cut and machine.

If something else, nevermind and please forgive the back-seat driving.

[cabinetman]

Cast acrylic sheet machines much better than extruded material. I use a 60T or more on a 10" blade (carbide tipped). I usually have the whole tooth above the sheet when cutting. Running the blade high reduces the lift to the sheet when cutting.



"I'M NEVER WRONG - BUT I'M NOT ALWAYS RIGHT"

[TheRic]

Yes, the maintenance man here at work cuts plastic (all types) all the time on the table saw. We are 30 miles from the plant so we use a fair amount of the stuff around here. Make sure the blade is barely above the plastic. He said to "Go slow, but not too slow. If you cut it to fast, or way to slow it will melt the plastic". He uses an old rip cut blade (and probably not that sharp). I have used a thin kerf, high tooth count blade (think it was 80) and not had any problems. There are several people on this site that cut plastic a fair amount, I'm sure they can give you more tips.

[mackmack]

Thanks for the replies guys.

I'm actually using the smaller squares that would be created for a perch for rocks in a small fountain. Instead of suffocating the pump below it. Sorta like a small ledge to seperate the inner halves of the fountain.

Main thing I am worried about is Kickback. I could see this stuff doing some real damage if it gets going and I have already been kickbacked once with some pine when I first got the saw and didnt know what I was doing.

I already have a thin kerf 80 tooth Dewalt blade that I really like on there, so hopfully that will do the job.

Just a little tentative about kickback on that stuff.

Should I apply any other special techniques when running this stuff through the saw? And its ok to cross and rip on it right?

Thanks.

[TheRic]

There is no grain, therefore no crosscut, rip-cut, it's all the same. It's a lot easier to work with then you think. Cleanup is a different story.

[mikel]

We used to cut stuff like that with routers all the time. 1/4 carbide straight bits

We were near a manufacturing plant and that is what they used.

...m

[LCHIEN]

don't cut it too slow feed rate, it will melt.
don't cut it too fast, it may shatter.
BUt there whould be a good happy medium.
Also use good dust collection or bear the consequences of a
snow storm of plastic shavings.

[ed2kayak]

Working with acrylic-Tools

Melev's reef site has a great tool reference section. http://www.melevsreef.com/tools.html
I have been rebuilding a small reef tank, his site is invaluable.