BT3K Price advice

[sackeri]

I'm just getting started learning how to use a table saw, literally. I'm still awaiting my table-saw instructional DVD from Technical Video Rental. In the meantime I've been perusing ads for a good deal on a BT3K, or clone as a good starter saw.

Anyway, I found one this morning asking $400 for an unused bt3000. I called the owner, and he claims to have "bought every option" on it from HD about 5 years ago for "$1018". He claims to never have taken it from the box. I asked him which accessories he has, and was fairly vague about it. I honestly think he knows less about it than me (he didn't even know that a 3100 model existed). I told him I would go over there to take a look at it tomorrow.

So my question is whether or not someone has any advice of what accessories to look for that could really be worth what he claims? $400 seems a little high for a BT3000, even an unused one. But does anyone know if HD offered that many accessories for it at one time? What should I look for that might be a "really nice to have" that may actually be worth the high price?

[JSCOOK]

Depends if he really has ALL the extras ... like the air float/vaccum table, extra long fence, table extensions, etc as shown here:

[LCHIEN]

JSCook posted my fav pic of the BT3000 family.

You might also take a look at my BT3 FAQ (link below my sig line), I cover most of the accessories, so you can be familiar with them when you look.

If he really has most of the available accessories it may well be worth $400.
Like the outfeed table is close to $100
The Air flotation table was over $100
the wide table kit was $100
Leg kit was $50
All the stuff in the accessory kit was originally $200
Some of the accessories are real hard to get now.

[JR]

The new Sears clone usually sells for about $400, lists at $459 I think. My BT3000 cost $500, with router kit and router when new.

If the one in question had the outfeed table, long fences, etc. it would be a good value, IMO.

JR

[sackeri]

That's awesome. I'll print out the image, and follow up on what happens.

Thanks.

[sackeri]

Well it certainly didn't have *all* the accessories, but it did have the long miter/rip fence, dust bag, casters, miter clamp, throat plates, quick set, and router/jig mounting kit. I ended up buying it anyway, as it was in pristine condition, and I thought it was a good deal overall.

Thanks for your help guys. I can't wait to get started on some projects!

[gmack5]

Welcome to the Family

Welcome sackeri,

Congratulations on the acquisition of your BT3000 Table Saw and welcome to the "family".

One of the first things you need to do, after you get your BT3000 Saw assembled is, following your Owner's Manual, go thru the entire set-up proceedure, step by step, in the sequence laid out in the Manual. Each set up proceedure builds on the one before it, so you MUST keep them in sequence.

Usually the Saw is set up properly, right out of the box, but you should still check it as this gets you familiar with all the adjustments on the saw and assures you that everything is as it should be.

Something you might think about is the use of a set of Draftsman's Triangles instead of the Carpenter's Square that they show in the Owner's Manual for setting up your saw.

An accurate Carpenter's Square is almost a myth!

A good one will cost you quite a bit of money, $40 - $75, or more.

I would recommend that you consider using a pair of Draftsman's 30 -60 and 45 degree triangles instead. You'll find they're not near as expensive and are far more accurate than a run-of-the-mill Carpenter's Square. The 30 -60 triangle should have one 12" leg and the other leg would be 9" long. The 45 degree triangle should have at least 8" legs on either side of the 90 degree corner. That way either one can be put up against the side of the Saw Blade without touching the saw teeth.

When checking the Miter Fence for Square to the Blade with a triangle, use the 12" 30-60, if possible.

Just remember, regardless of which measuring instrument you choose to use, check it(them) to be sure they're accurate.

Here's some free plans that'll keep you busy for a while. http://www.woodworkersworkshop.com/r...ex.php?cat=102

And here's some additional information about your Saw that you may find useful.
Regardless of what you've read or others have told you, NEVER NEVER use any wax or lubricant on your saw that contains Silicone, this includes all automobile waxes and polishes and most spray-on furniture polishes.
The reason is simple, most of them contain Silicones and they will make your projects difficult, if not impossible, to finish.

Silicones repell liquid, making "fish eyes" in your finishes, this will force you to remove the Silicones from your project and start over. That stuff (Silicone) migrates all over every where, don't ask me how, it just does.
If you put it in one place, eventually it will be all over the
entire saw.

Your best bet is to use a "dry" lubricant, such as Teflon (PTFE), Powdered Graphite, or Candle Wax for the Raising/Lowering and Tilt mechanisms below the table top.

Then use either Johnson's Paste Wax, Minwax's "Finishing Wax" or Butcher's Wax on the working surfaces, table tops (All three of them) and the Rip Fence.

Do NOT Wax the Front and Rear rails or the Miter Fence. As a mater of fact, you may want to glue 220 grit sand-paper to the front face of the Miter Fence, cause you don't WANT things to slide on there.

You might also want to check out the "Articles" section on the www.BT3central.com site. Lots of good maintenance information on your saw and some of the Jigs and Fixtures that BT3Central members and others have designed for it. Located here: http://www.bt3central.com/articles/

The only thing you'll need to access the information is a recent copy of the Adobe Reader (It can be downloaded from the BTcentral site).

One of the Articles mentioned is a "Check List", written by Jim Frye. You can find it here: https://www.sawdustzone.org/articles...nce-check-list
This list contains all the different areas on your saw that need to be periodically inspected or given some sort of special attention. In other words, a "Preventative Maintanence Check List" or PM. Performing this PM on a monthly basis would be a good idea.

One of the other things you'll find there is an on-line copy of the User's Manual in downloadable pdf format (a handy thing to have).

One of the other "tricks" that I've discovered is to take a piece of "Wax" paper, fold it several times and rub it in the grooves that the "T" nuts that lock your Rails in place ride in. Makes the Rails move smooth as Butter.

Last, but not least, don't forget to paint the RED line!
It's a line that extends the line-of-sight from the saw blade to the front edge of the table to remind you NOT to let your Miter Fence or your FINGERS get in the way of the saw blade. Just put red paint, nail polish, or what ever, in the grove that extends towards the operator from the front edge of the saw blade.