How to use impact driver to drill?

[brooks]

I see all the accessories for impact drivers and they all seem to be for tightening a nut or a hex head bolt. Is that all you can do with impact drivers? Can you buy drills for them? Or an adapter that will let you use normal drills and countersinks and that type of thing?

[cabinetman]

Brooks

"Impact" tools are fitted with a square drive fitting for sockets. If there is a fitting to allow for a drill bit to be used, I haven't seen it. Some drills are fitted with what is called "hammer drill" option, which is designated in (bps) which bumps while drilling. It's an effective procedure when drilling concrete or masonry with a masonry bit. Not really necessary for drilling wood, too much vibration for me.



"I'M NEVER WRONG - BUT I'M NOT ALWAYS RIGHT"

[Hellrazor]

http://s7.sears.com/is/image/Sears/0...7.128&fmt=jpeg

Maybe that would work ok...

[bigsteel15]

The impact driver I believe you're referring to is designed for driving screws. Works great for that because it goes fairly slow at the end allowing you to control the depth easier. I agree with cabinetman about drilling with it.

[leehljp]

I will have to disagree with cabinetman on the "square drive" part, as Impact Drivers are hex head and there are drill bits with hex heads for such usage. Impact Wrenches are "square" drives.

I think some clarification might be in order on impact drivers for Brooks as he asked "Is that all you can do with impact drivers?"


1. A person can drill holes with hex dead drill bits as mentioned above. They will do a good job where very tight tolerances are not an issue. Because it does not have a chuck to tighten around the bit, the drill bits will probably "dance" more on very hard woods and on metal unless a pilot punch has been used. Finding bits larger than 1/4 inch will be difficult.


2. It is a good nut driver, but does not compare to an impact wrench. The impact drivers will still have enough torque that they can break small bolts or strip a nut.


3. The Impact Driver (ID) is primarily a one trick work pony. It does its one job so good that it sells well based on that one job. It beats cordless drill drivers (DD) by a huge margin in driving screws. A DD is much more versatile but at the same time a cordless drill has one weakness that the ID overcomes with ease.

DDs will drive screws but the bits will "torque out" easily or strip the head of the screw easily. A whole industry has evolved just because of this one issue. Different kinds of speciality bits and screw heads such as square bits/screws, hex head etc are needed to prevent this.

BUT the ID does a super job without torking out on standard screw heads that are so readily available. If a person drives a lot of screws, long screws or into hard woods, the ID is by far the better. IDs are generally smaller and somewhat lighter than comparably powered DDs while having twice the torque. Yes, smaller, lighter and twice the torque (power).

While it might be a little difficult to picture the differences, the reason is because a DD's thrust if linear up and down the length of the bit, which causes the bit to "cam out" as more torque is applied. An ID has a "hammer" of sorts that hammers in a circular motion around the bit. Its force is applied horizontally instead of vertically. Vertical torque causes "camming out". The circular horizontal force of the ID is transferred more effeciently to the screw and does not cause the camming out as with DDs.

When driving screws for an extended period of time, the fatigue will be noticibly more with DDs as the torque of the DD is transfered back to the hands and more force is always needed to keep the bit in the screw head as it tightens. But with IDs, the force is between the horizontal hammer and the screw, meaning less force in gripping and less force in forward thrust is needed in the grip and much less fatigue to the hands and arms overall.

One other thing that I have personally noticed in my experience is that DDs will break more screws than IDs will, while the ID will drive a screw all the way through wood with less likelyness to it breaking. A 14V ID will drive a screw farther into the wood than an 18V or 24V DD. IDs are much more effecient at this point.

IF you want a "do everything drill", then the ID is not for you. If you drive a lot of screws, the ID is made for this.

[Tequila]

In a pinch, I've used my impact driver with hex shaft drill bits. It usually works, but not nearly as well as a drill. ID's run at a slower speed, so it's pretty common to burn the wood (and leave an ugly scorch on the bit).

So it can be done, but it's better not to.

[MilDoc]

What Lee said. I have Hitachi drill bits with hex drive ends. I use a Hitachi impact driver and it has become my jack-of-all-trades drill. Can't say I've seen any burned wood, but I have managed to knock the head off one lag screw!

[jaybee]

Chuck for impact driver

I have one of these on order from a local supplier.

http://nfba.org/html/modules.php?nam...rticle&sid=667

I've read where the U.S. borg had the equivalent from Makita in stock.

[cabinetman]

I'd like to thank Hank for catching my use of "impact", that I didn't make clear in my post. I didn't use the word "impact" with the word "driver". What was in my tiny mind was the word "wrench".



"I'M NEVER WRONG - BUT I'M NOT ALWAYS RIGHT"

[brooks]

This is THE place to ask questions! What a great educational resource. I wasn't planning on replacing my normal Milwaukee drills but I need to do some sistering of joists in a second floor bathroom, which means I'll be up on a ladder on the first floor, using one hand for the ladder, one for the driver and lugging a 2x8 with my spare third hand. I need to get it all done with the least disruption. I was impressed with a story I read where a guy held a 4x4 in his hand and buried a lag screw in it without kickback. He used an impact driver. I still remember putting in a small deck once where the drill turned me. I was about to buy a Ryobi when a Makita deal came up. I'm not sure I'll need to drill anything, from what I hear, those lag screws should go in without that.

Thanks, all, appreciate the time you took to help.

[brooks]

Jaybee, what's the price tag on that Dewalt adapter?

[jaybee]

Expensive!!

I'm paying $38.00 Canadian. I could find several places in the States that sell various versions for around $20.00 U.S. It was the shipping and handling and duty and fees that killed the deals for me. I then went looking for a local supplier and eventually ended up at General Fastener - who had to call the DeWalt rep to get transferred to the repair tech who knew exactly what I was asking for. They then found eight(8) of them in Calgary - I'm waiting for their next big order so that I can tag along and not pay an exhorbitant shipping charge. $38.00 is full retail and I know it is NOT a bargain , however, it is the least expensive option I could find.

[brooks]

Where did you see it for $20? The only place I found online wanted $28 + $8 shipping gouge.

[jaybee]

Makita 763198-1
3/8" Keyless Chuck Conversion Kit for Cordless Impact Drivers with 1/4" Hex Drive

http://www.toolbarn.com/product/makita/763198-1/

List Price: $30.90
Your Price: $19.00

Currently In Stock

I was willing to take any brand that I could find. The above site appears to have great prices, they just don't ship to Canada.

[IBBugsy]

No expert here but here's what I do.....

DD for critical/sensitive work and ID as the workhorse. I have the 18V Ryobi's for both.

For critical work, I typically have the pilot hole drill in the ID and the screw bit in the DD. Pick up the ID to drill the pilot hole, then pick up the DD to put the screw in.