Help Rough Sawn Lumber Choices and Prices

[mpauly]

Over on the Woodnet forums there is a group of guys arranging a delivery of some rough sawn lumber to NJ. A truck driver is basically looking for gas money and is willing to pick up a load and deliver for a small fee.

I'm new to buying rough sawn lumber and was hoping to get some input on whether these are good prices and whether I should be looking at 4/4 or 8/4 boards (assuming I have the ability to resaw the 8/4 if needed).

Hard Maple mostly white 4/4 $3.00/bf, 8/4 $3.50/bf
Red Oak flat sawn 4/4 $2.00/bf
Red Oak quarter sawn $2.75/bf
Walnut 4/4 $3.00/bf, 8/4 $3.50/b
Cherry 4/4 $3.50/bf, 8/4 $4.00/bf
Sassafras 4/4 $1.90/bf
Red Cedar 4/4 $2.00/bf

Boards are 4-10" wide with 6-7" being average. Lengths are 6-10' with most being around 8'. The delivery charge would be added on top of the above prices and I'd have to then pick them up from the coordinators house.

Any opinions?

Michael

[Jeffrey Schronce]

You would buy 4/4. Buying 8/4 to resaw down to 4/4 would result in you paying $.50 MORE than buying 4/4. Lumber is funny like that. You pay more for a board that has less work done to it. It is harder to get a clear 8/4 board than it is 4/4 thus it is more than twice as expensive.

I know nothing about the prices on the last two, however the prices are great on the others. Especially the QS Red Oak. I saw the thread on woodnet and seems the seller is known to have quality product. However, no one has really established what grade this hardwood is that is being sold and that can make it an exceptional deal or a poor deal. I can't imagine that Cherry is very clear for that price, likely a waste factor of 40% or more.

[LCHIEN]

they sound like good prices to me, and great if they include delivery. Usually when I order wood for delivery the prices for delivery equal the cost of the wood, doubling the prices.

As for 8/4 vs 4/4, you would buy the 8/4 if you want to make table legs, or very thick pieces of table top. Most of your other uses you would want to order 4/4. So it really depends on what you are going to make an dhow tick you need the final plane wood. Remember you will have to plane off at least 1/8" (1/16th off each side), maybe more to get to perfectly planed boards for use.

[cabinetman]

If you can mix and pick at those prices that would be even better. If you have to pre-order, they're still pretty good. Look closely for insect infestation or any out of order odor (hard to say five times).



"I'M NEVER WRONG - BUT I'M NOT ALWAYS RIGHT"

[mpauly]

Thanks for the feedback guys. The company does seem to be reputable, lets hope the delivery guy is as well. If I understand what you guys are saying, I should buy the thickness that I actually need. I thought buying the 8/4 for roughly $0.50 more a bf would be more economical as you could resaw it and have twice the number of 3/4 boards (after it's planed) for just a little more money.

Quoted from the owner of the company "Grade is all select and better which roughly means that the boards will be 83% clear or better."

The above prices don't include the delivery charge, that parts still unknown and I suppose will largely define whether or not it's worth it. It will then be delivered to one location about 20 miles from me where I'd need to pick it up. There are also several guys in the town next to me that may be in on the deal as well, so I may be able to coordinate some pick-up arrangements with them.

Edit: I can mix and match anything from that list above and was thinking of getting some QS Oak, Maple, Cherry and a little Walnut.

Thanks again,
Michael

[Russianwolf]

Prices are in line with Pennsylvania mill prices assuming all are "clear".

I will disagree with Jeff though. If given the option, I always buy 8/4 stock. If is much less likely to warp due to the extra thickness while waiting in my shop for me to transform it. Also I find that I have to do less work on 8/4 stock than 4/4. 6-7 inch wide can be resawn on the BT so no problems there. The way I do it is run one side of the board through the jointer (or planer if already flat) the use that side against the fence and resaw right down the middle. One trip through the planer for the resawn side and then plane the last rough side. I usually lose less that if I had tried planning two 4/4 boards down. Also the premium on 8/4 is because you aren't doing glue-ups for thicker pieces that can detract from the piece. A bookcase for example looks really sweet if the top is made of 6/4 and the rest 4/4.

Look here for a comparison of prices. http://www.innernet.net/galleryofwood/ Ed has about the cheapest prices for good wood I've found.

[Russianwolf]

I thought buying the 8/4 for roughly $0.50 more a bf would be more economical as you could resaw it and have twice the number of 3/4 boards (after it's planed) for just a little more money.

Just want to make sure you realize that BF is a volume measure, not a linear measure.

1BF = 144 cubic inches.

So the amount of wood will be the same weather its 4/4 or 8/4.

[mpauly]

Just want to make sure you realize that BF is a volume measure, not a linear measure.

1BF = 144 cubic inches.

So the amount of wood will be the same weather its 4/4 or 8/4.

DOH!!! Now it all makes sense. Silly lumber nomenclature......

[bfrikken]

Not sure on the prices, seem good to me.. I'm wondering how they will ship it to you. If you place a mixed order, will they group it together with your name on it? So when it gets delievered, they jsut pull your order and you are set, or do they say, Ok, I'm pulling the maple How much did you get?

Probably a very silly question, but I'd want to make sure I didn't have to worry about getting my stuff or watching someone actually divvy up the order at destination.

[mpauly]

bfrikken,

Good point!! I'd hate to be the last person at the pick-up spot taking all the scraps left by others. I'll ask the owner, hopefully they will be individually bundled and marked.

Michael

[Jeffrey Schronce]

DOH!!! Now it all makes sense. Silly lumber nomenclature......

Ithought that was the case, even wrote it and then erased since I don't translate well and my wife says I come off as a smart ass. Certainly make sure you learn all wood talk before you pickup your lumber as you don't want to get the short end of the QS Red Oak stick! Note 8/4 is pronounced "Eight quarter" not "eight four", so when you show up they don't laugh at you and poke you with QS Red Oak sticks, knowing full well that they knew what you were talking about they just wanted to make you feel inferior and cry a little bit on the inside for not being accepted by the cool kids and not having a date for the prom . . . . wait, I think I crossed over there somewhere.

Russinwolf makes a point and I agree somewhat except I believe resawing on a TS is not the best idea in the world. I am suprised that the BT can resaw 7" oak. That is full height of the blade into oak . . . . just would have thought it would not have worked so well.
Also the price difference tends to be more than $.50 for 4/4 versus 8/4 in my experience.

Also, this deal is dependent upon where you are located. In NJ you are not far away from the great hardwoods of PA. Cherry, Walnut, Oak, etc. You should be able to get a good deal with a little travel, versus someone in AZ who would jump all over this deal. You know, catus doesn't make good stock.

The deal presented by these folks seems pretty good overall. If you look at the thread you will see the sellers website and there they describe some of their wood clarity, waste, grading and pricing.

[JimD]

These prices are half what I pay when I pick up rough sawn lumber 100 miles from my home. I can buy planned lumber at about twice these prices closer but I have to pick it up between noon and 4 on weekdays - take off work.

In other words, these prices are great.

Which to buy depends on what you want to make. All are nice woods to work with. Mission style furniture takes Oak. Maple and cherry are probably the most popular right now. I love walnut but you have to be a bit careful with walnut boards. The trunk of the tree tends to go for veneer. Boards are often cut up limbs. The other degrading thing that is common is to inject steam into the kiln to make the sap wood dark. If you see no white sap wood and the wood is grey instead of dark brown with purple streaks, it has been steamed. Still OK but unless you have a specific use for it, I would probably pass and get Cherry, Oak or Maple. Cherry also has light sap wood that is worth less but I do not think you can steam it and get the sap wood to darken because cherry darkens through a chemical reaction to light. Walnut has a natural due that can be spread (it is also present in the husk of the nuts - that's what turns you skin black if you husk them).

Jim

Jim

[Knottscott]

Lumber prices varies alot depending on geographic location. Those prices are pretty good, but I can buy rough sawn near those prices locally and I get to pick out which boards. Not sure what the market is like in NJ, but rough sawn prices typically put the local borg's to shame.

[Ken Massingale]

I normally pay $1 bd/ft for bandsawn Red Oak, flat sawn, and around $2 for Cherry. I spoke with another sawyer yesterday who has quarter sawn Red and White Oak, and he is asking for $2.25 bd/ft, but said he will come down some I get a good quantity.
k

[gary]

I want to find out what you want to build with it before giveing you this advice. So??