Are Dovetails Neccessary?

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  • drumpriest
    Veteran Member
    • Feb 2004
    • 3338
    • Pittsburgh, Pa, USA.
    • Powermatic PM 2000

    #16
    If you are just starting in woodworking, I'd recommend a reenforced rabbet joint for drawers. I've used them on several projects, they look good, are more interesting and artful than screws or nailled together drawers, and they don't require a dovetail jig.

    As for picking a dovetail jig, I'd recommend getting something that will last for quite a while as you develop, like a Leigh D1600. Just my 2 cents worth.

    The reenforced rabbet is just a rabbet joint, after the glue-up dries, drill holes through the sides of the joint and peg with a differently colored wood. Walnut in a maple or birch drawer, for instance.
    Keith Z. Leonard
    Go Steelers!

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    • vaking
      Veteran Member
      • Apr 2005
      • 1428
      • Montclair, NJ, USA.
      • Ryobi BT3100-1

      #17
      Ditto on baltic birch plywood. You can use baltic birch plywood with dovetail joint. BB plywood has no voids and many thin layers. My supplier sells 1/2" BB plywood prefinished for drawers. This is the only ply he carries - everything else is hardwood or go to HD. Baltic Birch plywood you can even finish the edge with something like bullnose router bit without hardwood edge.
      Alex V

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      • cabinetman
        Gone but not Forgotten RIP
        • Jun 2006
        • 15218
        • So. Florida
        • Delta

        #18
        In case you missed this on my first post to you I'll post it in part: For drawers that use the front of the box for the drawer front, a decorative joint does look good. I've made quite a few drawers and I usually have a separate exposed front added to the actual drawer box. In the event of damage it's easier to replace a drawer front than a drawer. I've had great luck with rabbeting the sides, grooving the sides and front for the bottom and having the bottom fasten to the back of the drawer.



        "I'M NEVER WRONG - BUT I'M NOT ALWAYS RIGHT"

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        • BigguyZ
          Veteran Member
          • Jul 2006
          • 1818
          • Minneapolis, MN
          • Craftsman, older type w/ cast iron top

          #19
          Originally posted by cabinetman
          In case you missed this on my first post to you I'll post it in part: For drawers that use the front of the box for the drawer front, a decorative joint does look good. I've made quite a few drawers and I usually have a separate exposed front added to the actual drawer box. In the event of damage it's easier to replace a drawer front than a drawer. I've had great luck with rabbeting the sides, grooving the sides and front for the bottom and having the bottom fasten to the back of the drawer.



          "I'M NEVER WRONG - BUT I'M NOT ALWAYS RIGHT"
          I think that's the way to go. So you use plywood or hardwood for the drawers? I figured that I'd use a face board for the drawer, which I did in my forray into WW- a custom built desk that included two drawers... I think I did use pine on those.

          I'm looking for the least expensive way to get good quality results. The closet built-in doesn't have to be pretty in the details, but the kitchen would be nice to look good....

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