I thought jointing would be easy...

[davidtu]

Well I tried to get the knives reset using the new Grizzly gauge they sent me... but (as I might have already said) it wasn't made right or not compatible as it made the blades too high.

So, back to JoeWoodworker.Com's advice and since I've now done this SO many times, it wasn't too bad--though I find that the lateral alignment of the knives in the cutterhead was a PITA to get right... it was very sensitive to its position and if off toward the fence or away from it too much and it hit somewhere in the revolution of the cutterhead. The clearances there seem WAY too tight. Sort of wonder if that is by design or there is hardened "gunk" that its hitting. I don't turn it on, of course, just by hand feeling it... so it could conceivably be gunk.

Anyhow, I finally got some good results today. I think it was the readjustment of the knives coupled with your collective advice & wisdom--probably the most critical thing was to know that I had to transfer pressure from infeed to outfeed.

Btw, these were pretty thin pieces (3/8") and also only about 5" high and 9-14" long. I ended up not using the push blocks and just using my hands at the very top of the pieces... otherwise I would not be able to keep the piece against the fence. Felt it was more dangerous to use the blocks... BUT did I break a cardinal safety rule in so doing?

Thanks!

[LCHIEN]

Well I tried to get the knives reset using the new Grizzly gauge they sent me... but (as I might have already said) it wasn't made right or not compatible as it made the blades too high.

So, back to JoeWoodworker.Com's advice and since I've now done this SO many times, it wasn't too bad--though I find that the lateral alignment of the knives in the cutterhead was a PITA to get right... it was very sensitive to its position and if off toward the fence or away from it too much and it hit somewhere in the revolution of the cutterhead. The clearances there seem WAY too tight. Sort of wonder if that is by design or there is hardened "gunk" that its hitting. I don't turn it on, of course, just by hand feeling it... so it could conceivably be gunk.

Anyhow, I finally got some good results today. I think it was the readjustment of the knives coupled with your collective advice & wisdom--probably the most critical thing was to know that I had to transfer pressure from infeed to outfeed.

Btw, these were pretty thin pieces (3/8") and also only about 5" high and 9-14" long. I ended up not using the push blocks and just using my hands at the very top of the pieces... otherwise I would not be able to keep the piece against the fence. Felt it was more dangerous to use the blocks... BUT did I break a cardinal safety rule in so doing?

Thanks!

I think they don't recommend jointing anything less than 10" so you were very near the minimum limit.
If you were edge jointing this piece, then you can use the push blocks against the vertical fence, applying mostly forward but slightly downward force to keep the edge against the infeed and later, the outfeed table.

[boblon]

I'll post something in a couple of days.

I've been reading all the threads I can find on setting up a jointer as the plan is to tear in to mine for the first time tomorrow.

I have one of the HF dial calipers, but not the flat disk end.

I would be very interested in your method for making one of these..pretty please

BobL.

[LCHIEN]

DIY dial guage flat contact for those that requested

http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=23049

[ronmetz]

DIY dial guage flat contact for those that requested

http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=23049

Thank you, what a great idea.