How thin is to thin?

[mackmack]

I have another simple question for you guys. When cutting, whether it be crosscut or rip(well, atleast as close as the fence will go), is there a limit to how thin you can cut? Meaning, if I need to take off say .5 inch, even on a thin board or piece of moulding, is that advised?

For some reason I am apprhensive about doing this as it just seems something could go wrong. Thanks like always for your time guys.

[charliex]

I'm not sure exactaly what you are asking but just reading your post makes my fingers tingle. I tried using the TS to take a fraction of an inch off a small piece of flooring once and took a fraction of an inch off my thumb instead. I don't do that any more. Push sticks are an option if the piece isn't too aful small or if it is use a scroll saw, hand saw or band saw.

[boblon]

I would think that for thin rips, it would depend on your setup.

I have a pair of GRR-Rippers and they allow me to make some cuts that I wouldn't even attempt without them.

I think that if you have ANY apprehension concerning the cut your trying to make, DO NOT attempt it.

BobL.

[AAJIII]

thin cut

First off the edge you are shaving off should facing away from the fence.
The larger piece of wood should between the fence and the blade.


Also please remember SAFETY FIRST!!! If it feels dangerous then is probally is.
Find another way like a hand plane, etc.

al

[softop41]

how small is too small?

Ditto on the Grrr-rippers!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! They are the greatest. I never rip anything without them unless there is at least a foot between the blade and the fence!
Jerry

[davidtu]

newbie alert!

Am I missing something? Because this doesn't sound dangerous to me at all. (Hold on...)

That is, a crosscut of .5" off a molding (depending on its length) seems fine for the miter table to handle, provided you are using the miter fence and if necessary an auxillary long fence clamped to that so the piece is stable and your hands are away from the blade as normal. (Or use a compound miter saw, if you have it!)

As for a rip cut, if you're talking about a reasonable size board (say, width 3"+; length 12"+--i.e. longer than the blade) you should be able to trim that .5" off the edge by placing the fence at 2.5" and trim the "far" side of the board (away from the fence), as long as you use a push stick.

Please correct me because I want to know this stuff!!

[Warren]

I've been known to riip a fraction from a board, sometimes less than the width of the kerf off of a wide board. If you're talking of ripping a narrow piece, say an inch or so in width, I say get your wife to do it.

I'd use a plane unless you're talking about ripping thin slats for use, then I'd cut 'em until the board got so narrow that I was uncomfortably close to the blade. Then I'd have the wife cut one or two more. Then, if I needed more, I'd start with a new board.

[LCHIEN]

i rip really fine slivers off all the time.
1) you have to have a big enough piece to hold and push safely, if not then you need to attach it to something or use a jig.
2) obviously when ripping you need to have the sliver on the away side from the fence.
When ripping I sometimes cut 1/16th oversize and make another pass to clean it up.
When that happens the cut is less than the wood kerf. Talk about thin!


Crosscutting, agains no limits as long as you can hold the other end against the SMT fence comfortably.

[TheRic]

Agree on a crosscut you could remove a fraction of the kerf with no trouble, assuming you have enough to hold safely. Rip cut, whole new ballgame.

If you are talking about crosscutting a piece off that you want to keep, you can still do that with no trouble. Just may take several tries to get it right. At this I would eyeball it, not use the fence.

Then again if you need to take off that little of wood (to keep), a hand saw, jig saw, etc. might be better. I think it come down to what YOU feel comfortable doing.

[scorrpio]

For slicing thin, a rip sled is best, IMO. Some folks make sleds that slide in miter slots(if they have them). Some make sleds that 'hug' the fence. Either design involves a longish piece of wood that has some means of securing a smaller piece, handles to slide the sled safely, and something to ensure its parallel to blade movement.

[jabe]

I make sacrificial push sticks out of scrap wood so if I cut it while ripping thin peices its not a problem. Make your push sticks so it'll bear down on the wood while pushing it through the blade. This will prevent the wood from lifting off the table. Use feather boards if possible. Also do not raise your saw blade no higher than an 1/8" above the stock you're cutting. Keep the larger size of the wood between the fence & blade. A rule I used for my students "If the wood is less than 12" long and less than 1 1/2" wide do not cut it on the table saw!". If your'e not sure about it don't do it, find anotherway or have someone who is really experienced to show you how it's done.