Push Blocks

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  • Cain
    Forum Newbie
    • Jan 2004
    • 48
    • Little Rock, Arkansas.

    #1

    Push Blocks

    Anybody out there got a plan for making your own push blocks for a jointer? I'm about to buy a used jointer, but don't have any push blocks.

    I figure they would be easy to make, but I don't know what to surface the bottom with. Is it like sandpaper, rubber, etc.?
  • JSUPreston
    Veteran Member
    • Dec 2005
    • 1189
    • Montgomery, AL.
    • Delta 36-979 w/Biesemyere fence kit making it a 36-982. Previous saw was BT3100-1.

    #2
    The pushblocks that came with mine are plastic with a textured rubber bottom. I also have a cheap set that I got from Rockler that are also plastic with a rubber bottom. I personally like the idea of the plastic, so that I don't have to worry about wood cracking/splitting while working.
    "It's a dog eat dog world out there, and I'm wearing Milk-Bone underwear."- Norm (from Cheers)

    Eat beef-because the west wasn't won on salad.

    Comment

    • Tom Miller
      Veteran Member
      • Mar 2003
      • 2507
      • Twin Cities, MN
      • BT3000 - Cuttin' it old school

      #3
      There are lots of different materials that you can use to surface the bottom -- many people use items they have laying around, like old mouse pads, weatherstripping material, etc. Just be sure it's something that doesn't pick up a lot of saw dust and then lose it's grip. Sandpaper works very well, and doesn't tend to pick up sawdust.

      For a jointer, it's sometimes nice to have a "hook" on the back of at least one push block. You can cut this into the pad, or attach a little projection. Something that you can flip up and down is nice.

      As far as design: think in terms of a block of 3/4" wood that's ~4" x 6", with a drawer pull (or similar) attached to the surface.

      Regards,
      Tom

      Comment

      • brooks
        Established Member
        • May 2006
        • 106

        #4
        At school, our first project is to make wooden push blocks and sticks. The plastic ones can "explode" into sharp shards if they hit the blade.

        We make them out of almost any scrap wood - softwood, hardwood, plywood. We use different thicknesses too. The basic design looks something like this: http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/pusher_block.jpg

        Comment

        • Tom Miller
          Veteran Member
          • Mar 2003
          • 2507
          • Twin Cities, MN
          • BT3000 - Cuttin' it old school

          #5
          Originally posted by brooks
          We make them out of almost any scrap wood - softwood, hardwood, plywood. We use different thicknesses too. The basic design looks something like this: http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/pusher_block.jpg
          I've always been a little wary of this design, either for jointer or TS.
          If this push shoe tilts just a bit, your downward pressure creates a pivoting force that can take your hand down into the blade.

          And, yet, this is a popular style -- even sells at the WW stores. So what do I know?!

          Regards,
          Tom
          [Edit: I have never used this style of push shoe, so I really do mean the "what do I know?" comment.]
          Last edited by Tom Miller; 07-20-2006, 02:14 PM.

          Comment

          • brooks
            Established Member
            • May 2006
            • 106

            #6
            That's something to think about. We use Brett guards, so there shouldn't be any exposure to the blade. I've seen push blocks around the shop with saw marks in them, as if they'd been run through the blade a bit.

            Comment

            • LCHIEN
              Super Moderator
              • Dec 2002
              • 21885
              • Katy, TX, USA.
              • BT3000 vintage 1999

              #7
              carpet padding good for bottom of push shoes.
              Loring in Katy, TX USA
              If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
              BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

              Comment

              • JSUPreston
                Veteran Member
                • Dec 2005
                • 1189
                • Montgomery, AL.
                • Delta 36-979 w/Biesemyere fence kit making it a 36-982. Previous saw was BT3100-1.

                #8
                Originally posted by brooks
                At school, our first project is to make wooden push blocks and sticks. The plastic ones can "explode" into sharp shards if they hit the blade.

                We make them out of almost any scrap wood - softwood, hardwood, plywood. We use different thicknesses too. The basic design looks something like this: http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/pusher_block.jpg
                Well, given this new info, looks like I should rethink my plastic push blocks.
                "It's a dog eat dog world out there, and I'm wearing Milk-Bone underwear."- Norm (from Cheers)

                Eat beef-because the west wasn't won on salad.

                Comment

                • scmhogg
                  Veteran Member
                  • Jan 2003
                  • 1839
                  • Simi Valley, CA, USA.
                  • BT3000

                  #9
                  Cain,

                  Here are a three sites that have rather crude "plans" for push blocks. For the jointer, you really need the flat surface to apply downward force. I use both flat bottom and one with the hook Tom was talking about. See the woodzone site. I use the lace rubber shelf liners for the bottoms. They usually have 10' rolls at the 99 cent store.

                  http://www.cvwa.org/Guide/Guide005.htm

                  http://www.woodzone.com/images/tips/pushblock.jpg

                  http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/hi_too...404797,00.html
                  I would never die for my beliefs because I might be wrong. Bertrand Russell

                  Comment

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