Dust Collection on/off switching

[davidtu]

I have a Grizzly 2 HP 220V DC that I picked up used...

What is the best way to handle turning on and off? There are several choices out there...

a) use the switch on the unit,
b) use a wireless remote control, (PSI now on sale @ Amazon ... advice?)
c) use a blast-gate controlled system, (JDS and PSI are both on sale @ Amazon... advice?)
d??) wiring standard 3-way or 4-way switches to various places in the shop? (Europe uses 220v in their lighting, would it be hard to get switches? Are the amps too high?)

Thanks!

[Popeye]

I've got manual blast gates to control flow but the best thing I've done with the DC was to get a wireless remote from Woodcraft. I've got the key fob hanging above the TS. Pat

[LCHIEN]

depends what you want to pay.

I built a box that could be driven by the output of a cheap wireless remote ($10) using a $7 relay to switch AC from another source (could be 110 or 220).

I think the 220V remote that can switch 10 Amps at 220 is probably $50-75 and the blast gate controlled is even more.

I put the plans for my relay box in the Shop talk forum about 3 months ago. let me know if you need help finding it.

[Tom Miller]

That's the model DC I've got. Since I already have some X10 lighting set up, I went with that. For DC, you'd need this:




and this




and this




That'll cost $46 not including shipping.

I keep the remote clipped to my shop apron, which helps keep me in the habit of putting the apron on when I enter the shop. (I don't always change into "play clothes" like I should. )

Another option: at one time, since my shop was small enough, and I had a central work area, I hung a switch from the ceiling.

Regards,
Tom

[davidtu]

(Stepping over to the Bargain Alert forum for a moment )

So then, would this be a good buy now?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...lance&n=228013


and it seems no one is recommending the auto-start dust gates such as this...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...lance&n=228013

they sound like a good idea, but I've read people are frustrated since they turn off the machine too quickly (and require cycling on and off) as you momentarily switch between machines. Also, I suppose you get tied into their expensive blast gates... unless does PSI gate work on JDS master?

[Tom Miller]

So then, would this be a good buy now?

That's only a 110V unit, isn't it?

Regarding blast gate switches -- never used them, myself, but it sounds like a lot of fiddly work getting everything wired. My DC system is a "work in progress", so that'd add to the work. Also, Some of my blast gates are attached to by BT3 mobile base, so it' be an extra disconnect every time I wanted to move it.

Regards,
Tom

[LCHIEN]

(Stepping over to the Bargain Alert forum for a moment )

So then, would this be a good buy now?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...lance&n=228013


and it seems no one is recommending the auto-start dust gates such as this...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...lance&n=228013

they sound like a good idea, but I've read people are frustrated since they turn off the machine too quickly (and require cycling on and off) as you momentarily switch between machines. Also, I suppose you get tied into their expensive blast gates... unless does PSI gate work on JDS master?

It's probably not too good to switch dust collectors on and off frequently. (like every time you start and stop the saw)
I've heard it before and I'm trying to remember the reasons why. For one thing they draw large starting currents and unlike saws and such they run at near full power as long as they are on.

Anyway my preferred usage is the remote control, I turn it on when I start cutting a series of stuff and off after I'm done. usually I put my ear protection on at the same time and take it off when I turn off the DC. In between the saw goes on and off many times.

[AZ Tom]

Loring... is this the correct contactor to use for your plans?

NEW DEFINITE PURPOSE CONTACTOR 120V coil 30/40amp 2p
Ebay Item number: 7614282290

I recall reading your plans some time ago, and am finally ready to actually build one.

Thank you,

Tom

[Holbren]

Some day (soon I hope) I'm going to design one that uses current sense to detect when a machine is turned on and then actuate the appropriate gate and turn DC on.

[L. D. Jeffries]

A wireless works great, and you can usually turn it on/off from anywhere in the shop. Unless you've go a billon dollars and have a shop as big as a "borg". Got mine from WoodCraft for under $50.

[LCHIEN]

Loring... is this the correct contactor to use for your plans?

NEW DEFINITE PURPOSE CONTACTOR 120V coil 30/40amp 2p
Ebay Item number: 7614282290

I recall reading your plans some time ago, and am finally ready to actually build one.

Thank you,

Tom

yes, that's the one!

[vaking]

Some day (soon I hope) I'm going to design one that uses current sense to detect when a machine is turned on and then actuate the appropriate gate and turn DC on.

Brian,
The current sensing module already exists and is sold by Sears under the name autoswitch for $20. This switch in itself is a suitable solution for a small DC (I would say under 1HP) or a shopvac. For a big DC it should not be very difficult to use one or several such switches as sensors using them to turn on a contactor for a DC and electrically operated gates. The above mentioned switch has 2 controlled outlets - one can be used to open gate and another to start the DC. In other words - it is screaming to be used for something like this. Given that Sears sells those for $20 it means they are really cheap to make. I am sure Loring and few other people here would be able to devise a circuitry based on those to accomplish this task. A different question is if there is a commercial market for it.

[LCHIEN]

Brian,
The current sensing module already exists and is sold by Sears under the name autoswitch for $20. This switch in itself is a suitable solution for a small DC (I would say under 1HP) or a shopvac. For a big DC it should not be very difficult to use one or several such switches as sensors using them to turn on a contactor for a DC and electrically operated gates. The above mentioned switch has 2 controlled outlets - one can be used to open gate and another to start the DC. In other words - it is screaming to be used for something like this. Given that Sears sells those for $20 it means they are really cheap to make. I am sure Loring and few other people here would be able to devise a circuitry based on those to accomplish this task. A different question is if there is a commercial market for it.

If you read my post in Shop Setup a couple of months back I already detailed the circuit and plans for a relay booster (That AZ Tom just referred to) that could use a low current wireless remote or the Sears autoswitch to activate a DC on a separate 110 or 220 V line to avoid (1)overloading the circuit or (2) overloading the switch or (3) switching a separate 220V line, all this done with a $6 ebay relay (only 1400 left this week) and a few plugs and sockets and bits of wire.

Here's the link to the article:
http://www.bt3central.com/showthread...ighlight=relay


Brian H: The autoswitch will solve the current sensing and my relay booster will allow that autoswitch to run an appliance (DC or Shopvac) on another circuit to avoid having to share current with the tool. But I prefer to use a remote control so as not to turn the DC on and off too frequently as might be done if just switching when the saw is on. There are some who recommend against frequent switching of the bigger DCs. I use the remote and what I do is, if I'm stopping long enough to remove the ear protection, I'll also turn off the DC. If I'm going to saw again soon and don't remove the ear protection, I don't turn off the DC either.

[Jeffrey Schronce]

I am sure there is something that I am missing given the number of technically oriented folks here, but what is the problem with the remote gate system by PSI? I have this system and it works flawlessly.
All of these systems require you to open the gate do they not (other than the very expensive system that has auto motorized gates)?
It seems funny that someone would assert that wiring the gates would be difficult, but building a system from scratch seems reasonable (not bashing Lorings system or anything, just seems like contrary statements).

Davidtu, the PSI gate will work on the JDS. Gates can be caught on sale for $10 at WC (or even less at Amazon right now). They are nice gates and you have to figure you would have to buy decent gates anyway.

[AZ Tom]

Jeffrey.. I can't speak for others, but in my case, I'm an extreme newbie to this hobby, with a modest investment, and a two car garage. (which is actually used from time to time for a car) My DC is a used Delta unit purchased on ebay, with standard bags. So when in use, it sits parked outside the side door of the garage. I move the hose from tool to tool as needed. To have an inexpensive wireless remote controlling this DC sounds inviting to me. That is what I hope to get from Lorings relay box.

If I were to ever "graduate" to an actual shop, with dedicated DC plumbing, and better filtration, I would not have to roll the DC out the side door every time it was used, and I could see using a system controlled by the blast gates.

Tom