HF Dovetail Jig

[ssmith1627]

Ok, I know there have been a 100 threads here about this particular jig. But my frustration is a new and unique twist on the whole dovetail issue. I spent a couple days getting the jig set up right. Probably made 25 cuts and now......I'd give my results about a 7. Maybe a B-.

But that's not even the issue. Finally got to where I wanted to make a drawer. Ripped four pieces of pine down to 4 inches tall. Cut the front and back and the two sides to the proper lengths. Marked where each piece would join the other -- 1 & 1, 2 & 2, etc. Ready to go.

Then what I managed to do was put the side and the front backwards into the jig......so that my halfblind dovetails show on the front instead of the side. And of course this makes the drawer about 3/4 of an inch too wide for the opening.

It's a very humbling experience. Who knew so much went into just making ONE DRAWER. Wow. This is one intense hobby. And clearly I still qualify as a newbie.

Steve

[LCHIEN]

sometimes its a good idea to previsualize where the cuts will be and put a series of lightly penciled "X" marks where you expect to cut. Kind of like the surgeons who have their patients mark the correct limb to operate on with a magic marker and sign it.

Might have saved you on this one.

[JR]

Wait until you get the cuts in the right place, then flip the board, only to to put the cuts for the other end on the wrong side of the board!

The latest FWW has an article on hand-cut dovetails. I intend to study it intently. The whole dovetail jig thing seems to make sense only when there are a number of pieces to be made. For just a few cuts it hardly seems worth the hassle.

JR

[John Hunter]

I alway mark my pieces so that I do not do that as it is very easy to do.

[jhart]

Been there, done that and will probably end up doing it again sometime. Sometimes, I don't "learn real quick"

[ssmith1627]

I did have all my pieces marked -- I knew which was the front and which was the side. I just plain put them in the jig backwards. Now I have highlighted that page in the manual for easy reference -- sides vertical, front/back horizontal. Let's hope I can remember that.

I made a drawer last night.....a little better results. Meaning, one I can actually use....haha.

http://ssmith1627.myphotoalbum.com/v...d=150_5052_IMG

http://ssmith1627.myphotoalbum.com/v...d=150_5051_IMG

Didn't cut a groove for the bottom since I'm using 3/4" plywood. Just used glue, brads and some screws. This is for my workbench. Gonna put a false front on it made of oak to match the oak plywood cabinet doors that will also be on the front of my workbench.

One drawer down, two to go.

Steve

[JR]

Nice looking drawers, Steve!

[ssmith1627]

Many thanks. I know this is beginner stuff....but that's where I am....haha.

This hobby has one heckuva steep learning curve ! But I must enjoy it because I'm out there til 10:30 every night.

Steve

[bigsteel15]

Nice joints.
I was going to use 1/2" BB ply but am not having much luck with the HB dovetails fitting nice without splitting a lamination.
May have to try with 3/4" pine boards.
My first drawers used 1/2" BB ply with rabbets and the bottom just nailed and glued.
You and I are at the same stage, building our shop cabinets.
This is the best stuff to learn advanced techniques on.
I've browsed your entire album and see we have a lot of the same ideas.

[ssmith1627]

Brian,

I thought about trying that. The workbench plans just call for using plywood butt joints for the sides of the drawers. I did that for the three drawers I've made so far that are already installed in it. There are like three "bays" in the base for the workbench. Cabinet doors will cover the small pull out drawers on the two outside sections. Three drawers fit in the middle section -- two this size and one deeper. So I thought I'd try a little nicer drawer type. Who knew it would be THAT much more work ! haha

http://ssmith1627.myphotoalbum.com/v...d=146_4693_IMG

Will be interesting when I try that deeper drawer. 9 inches deep. That'll be a good test of my jig setup.

You have pictures of the things you're working on ? Would love to see. Always good to talk with a fellow struggler......lol

Steve

[bigsteel15]

Brian,
You have pictures of the things you're working on ? Would love to see. Always good to talk with a fellow struggler......lol

Steve

Here are some initial pictures. Haven't had much time to do anything since.

http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=21435

I'm in the process of re-organizing and moving stuff around.
My buddy that visited last weekend decided I could move things around to fit the wifes car in AND give me more work room. He is a master at working in small spaces. We'll see how it works this weekend.

[ssmith1627]

That's right. I remember talking to you briefly in the mobile base thread now. I knew that little girl looked familiar ! haha

I moved my shop around a lot before I found this setup. The island method is working pretty well -- at least in the first 10 days or so. Finally feel like everything has a place and that I can get around without constantly getting skewered by something !

Now if I can just finish up these drawers I can get back to having actual work surfaces ! (or is that a dream?)

Steve

[JimD]

Brian,

My favorite material for drawers with my HF dovetail jig is 1/2 BB plywood. I have to use a backer piece on the clamping bar that holds the drawer side in place, however, to prevent split-out and other unpleasant consequences. I have a backer screwed to the clamping bar. You may want to try this before giving up on BB. I have used material as thin as 1/4 luan for the backing piece successfully. I sometimes have tails come apart on me during dryfit but normally the as-cut joint is fine. I have not lost more than 1 tail during dryfit so I typcially just glue it up and the others hold things together fine (i.e. the piece lost does not show).

Jim