Dado with router or Table Saw?

[thallikar]

I am a newbee. I just got a craftsman Table saw 24884. Some something like that. It is a 10" direct drive one. Just found out it can only do 1/2" inch dado. So, how much should I worry about this. I will be getting a router soon. If I do get a dado/rabbet bit, Is it still better off to purchase a table saw that can support a 3/4-15/16" dado? Or can I live with the table saw and do the dado on the router all the time?

Thanks in advance for your advice.

[LarryG]

This subject gets a lot of discussion around here. Both methods, router and table saw, have advantages and disadvantages. Personal preference plays a big role, too.

With a router, you can take the tool to the workpiece, and cut grooves on pieces that might be awkward and/or unsafe to handle on the TS. Also, a router bit always cuts a clean, flat-bottomed groove; not all dado sets will. The setup time is usually quicker, especially if you have a dadoing jig for your router. The main downside is that unless you have a router bit that exactly matches the groove width you need, you'll need to make multiple passes to get the width right; and you'll frequently have to make multiple passes to get the required depth. This does slow things down a bit, but not too badly, and a good jig makes it basically a foolproof operation.

With a table saw, you can dial in the required width and depth by making test cuts on scrap and then blaze away, cutting a lot of grooves in short order. But you first have to break down the saw and install the dado set, and may have to make a few trial-and-error test cuts unless you already have the correct stack "recipe" worked out and written down. For this reason, many people don't cut dados on a TS unless they have a whole bunch of them to cut, so they can justify the longer setup time. And there's also the aforementioned problem with large workpieces.

I personally use both methods, depending on the project and my mood. As I said, personal preference is a big factor. If I were going to advise you, I'd say that as long as you otherwise like your Craftsman saw, I wouldn't worry about it. A router will cut excellent dados and since it will do a lot more to boot, I always tell people that a router should be a MUCH higher purchasing priority than a dado set.

[Ken Weaver]

What Larry said - I also use both depending on the project. If its a one time thing I usually go for the router, if in a "production" mode, I used the TS. Sort of like choosing an aftershave - lot of personal preference. Both get the job done.

[Tequila]

I do the same as the others have commented. For just a couple of dadoes, I'll use the router. If I have a lot of them to do, I'll set up the saw.

Keep in mind that even though your saw can only manage 1/2" dado, you can always run two passes to get up to 3/4 inches or more. I've had to do that plenty of times for half-lap joints, and it's not very difficult after the first couple of times.

[LCHIEN]

Larry's points are all "Right on the money".

[Tom Hintz]

I go along with the others. Having both is nice but not necessary to doing good work. In fact, concentrating on using a router will hone your skills with that quickly. Also, with the wood-specific router bits available now, you can cut dados for the common wood thicknesses with one setup and have them actually fit.
Listen to your instincts - and budget. We all have to follow both, the latter more than we like!

[Tom Miller]

Another aspect to consider is your ability to get the perfect width dado with a particular setup.

If using a handheld router, do you have a jig that you can set to the exact width? If using a router table, can you adjust the fence to get the perfect width (assuming you need to make multiple passes)? You might need a micro-adjust on the router fence to do this.

With a dado blade on a TS, you should be able to dial in the correct width easily enough. But if you need to cut a stopped dado -- you're back to the router.

Regards,
Tom

[drumpriest]

As the others, I use both. If the project is under 4' tall, I use the TS most of the time. If it's larger, I use the router. Simply easier to take the tool to the project at that point.

Tom is also right about stopped dados. As to the exact width, I just have different sized router bits. Holbren's plywood set is nice and inexpensive and VERY handy.

[thallikar]

Thanks a bunch for the great advice. I think instead of spending the money on a nice dado set, I will spend it towards a freud router 2200 (129$ at lowes). That way, the money towards the dado can go towards the router. I had to buy a router anywayz.

[drumpriest]

I would say that is a good move, going towards a router. If you don't have one, it's much more functional than a dado stack would be. A 3 1/4 hp model is going to be heavy for hand held use, so make sure you like the feel of whatever router you get. That is a great price for one though.

[scorrpio]

A jig to cut excellent dadoes with a router is very easy to make. Take two pieces of hardboard and screw hardwood fences to them. Chuck the bit you usually cut dadoes with, and run the router along the hardwood fences of each piece, trimming the hardboard to just the right size. Now, you clamp one piece on one dado layout line, use a scrap piece of same stock as one going into the dado as a spacer, and clamp the other jig piece. Now, just run the router along one fence, then along the other, and you are done. Be sure to account for hardboard thickness when setting the depth.

[LarryG]

This thread illustrates the sort of jig Scorrpio describes.

As mentioned previously, buying a router instead of a dado set is an excellent move. I'm not familiar with the Freud you mention; that sounds like a good price, but you might want to consider spending a bit more and getting one of the two-base kits that most people recommend as one's first router.

[JR]

but you might want to consider spending a bit more and getting one of the two-base kits that most people recommend as one's first router.

Wiser words were never typed.

You definitely want a plunge base and fixed base. I've been struggling with only a fixed base router for some time and it's very limiting. You couldn't do Larry's dado-jig cut very well with just a fixed base. Similarly, you'd want a fixed base for dovetails or roundovers.

JR