I just checked the HP (which is misleading, it's the amperage that counts.) I'm using an older Sears which has an rating of 11.6 amps, and the HP rating of 5 HP (yeah, right).
What IS important is that you keep the vacs filter as clean as possible and never let the container get more than a third to a half full. A dirty clogged filter can have a major impact on the "sucking" power of your vac. An incorrect (or in some cases, any) extension cord (I don't use one) will reduce the power of your vac. dramatically.
If I had the room, I'd be using a proper dust collection system instead. Shop Vacs aren't the best way to collect saw dust from woodworking machines.
In answer to Davidtu's question, what both Loring and I are referring to, is the "built in" dust collect port at the rear of the saw. We aren't doing anything special in the way of "tricking out" the saw to help in dust collection.
Some saw dust will always be floating around the shop, that's a fact of life, after all, we're not talking about "clean room" conditions here.
I have found that a ZCTP does hamper dust collection, but I'd much rather deal with the dust than the splintering of stock.
I always wear a dust mask when cutting MDF, its dust is more like talcum powder than saw dust. Also, some tropical wood saw dust borders on being poisonous, and in that case, I wear a respirator when cutting this type of wood.
Bottom line, I found that the "above the blade" collection method that Lee uses in his Shark Guard does more than drilling holes in your ZCTP. In all probability, you'd get better collection with a "standard" throat plate/Shark Guard combination, but as I mentioned earlier, a ZCTP is in my opinion mandatory, as is the Shark Guard.
Hope this answers your questions (both of you), just keep at it and dust or not, enjoy woodworking, that's whats most important (sorry Rod), I much rather have a messy shop than limiting my fun and creativity (or lack of) in the shop.
Bruce
What IS important is that you keep the vacs filter as clean as possible and never let the container get more than a third to a half full. A dirty clogged filter can have a major impact on the "sucking" power of your vac. An incorrect (or in some cases, any) extension cord (I don't use one) will reduce the power of your vac. dramatically.
If I had the room, I'd be using a proper dust collection system instead. Shop Vacs aren't the best way to collect saw dust from woodworking machines.
In answer to Davidtu's question, what both Loring and I are referring to, is the "built in" dust collect port at the rear of the saw. We aren't doing anything special in the way of "tricking out" the saw to help in dust collection.
Some saw dust will always be floating around the shop, that's a fact of life, after all, we're not talking about "clean room" conditions here.
I have found that a ZCTP does hamper dust collection, but I'd much rather deal with the dust than the splintering of stock.
I always wear a dust mask when cutting MDF, its dust is more like talcum powder than saw dust. Also, some tropical wood saw dust borders on being poisonous, and in that case, I wear a respirator when cutting this type of wood.
Bottom line, I found that the "above the blade" collection method that Lee uses in his Shark Guard does more than drilling holes in your ZCTP. In all probability, you'd get better collection with a "standard" throat plate/Shark Guard combination, but as I mentioned earlier, a ZCTP is in my opinion mandatory, as is the Shark Guard.
Hope this answers your questions (both of you), just keep at it and dust or not, enjoy woodworking, that's whats most important (sorry Rod), I much rather have a messy shop than limiting my fun and creativity (or lack of) in the shop.
Bruce
LCHIEN
Loring in Katy, TX USA
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