Mounting a router in a table

[Jamb]

I think Jamb is just using that slab of white plastic to simulate the thickness of the accessory table top + mounting plate. As pictured, the router is not mounted in the table so he's using the white plastic to illustrate the relationship when the router is mounted in the table. (But with that said, it doesn't look to me like the bit would have to be raised as much as the final picture shows.)

There doesn't appear to be any protective coating on that bit to my eye, FWIW.

That’s exactly right, on those pictures the router is not mounted yet.

I made out a mounting plate of that white plastic cutting board. Yesterday I cut it in shape and attached to the accessory table. The next picture shows the router mounted in the table with the white mounting plate + black router base on. The last one shows the same setup without the router base plate (only the mounting plate is used). If I remove the base plate from the router I can raise the bit a little higher, but also remove the dust collector channel that is attached to the plate inside and connects to the dust collector port on the base. Is it OK to remove the base plate and leave the motor exposed to dust?

Shouldn’t I be able to raise the bit fully above the table surface as the second picture shows above? I understand it is not necessary for round over but what if I want to include part of the vertical cutters in the design? How does it work in your table?

(There is no plastic protection on the bit)

EDIT: Larry, you totally understand my problem. Agent511 still doesn't get it. I don't know how to explain it. Maybe these pictures will help.

[agent511]

Now that Larry cleared me up - and it was my fault for not catching on earlier - I think I have the problem understood. You made a table mounting plate out of the UHMW PE pictured, that is about 1/2" thick. You now have less exposure of the bit at full safe extension than you did with the original router base which probably was 1/4".

So you would either have to get a bit extender, or you would have to rethink your choice of table mounting bases, and use something more conventional and not as thick.

[LarryG]

Surgeon General's Warning: The following random musings may or may not help. Probably won't help, in fact.

For openers, I agree with 511: reduce the thickness of the mounting plate to the 1/4" used for the factory plate and you'll gain back most of what you need right there.

On all my routers, the dust nozzle mounts to the base casting rather than the plastic subbase itself. I'm not familiar with the GMC/Triton, but are you sure the nozzle mounts to the plastic subbase? OTOH, even if it does, you should be able to fashion a mount to your homemade mounting plate since that is, in effect, a replacement subbase.

I guess you're absolutely certain you're getting all the travel that's possible ... that there's no depth-stop mechanism limiting the travel in any way? I ask this because most if not all of my routers will actually let the collet protrude THROUGH the hole in the subbase.

If push comes to shove ... and this is one of those YMMV things ... I personally would not be adverse to exposing an amount of shank equal to the shank's diameter, or 1/4" for a 1/4" shank, 1/2" for a 1/2" shank, PROVIDED at least 2/3rds and preferably 3/4ths of the shank's overall length was buried in the collet. The amount of extension shown in the last picture is definitely excessive, but IMO you could reduce it by half and should then be okay.

[agent511]

Also, I see that most router tables have a fence with some type of dust collection built into the fence, or jerry-rigged into the fence, above the table. I have read that in a router table set up, the preferred dust collection is above the table,a nd not below it, so you wouldn't need to worry about that other problem of the dust collector not fitting on anymore.

This being my 100th post, I guess I can't be a newbie anymore.

[Jamb]

I thought I’ve been missing something but it seems others have the same problem. I guess not every router designed to use in table?

Even with a thinner 1/4” plate I could gain only 1/8” and still not enough. Perhaps I should use a 1/8” thin metal plate and 1/2” bits. I would be more confident pulling out those if it is still necessary. Do they hav longer shank?

What is a bit extension? (I have an idea but never seen it). Sounds like a solution to my problem. Is it safe to use?

[LCHIEN]

...

What is a bit extension? (I have an idea but never seen it). Sounds like a solution to my problem. Is it safe to use?

Collet Extender:

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...outcollet.html

http://www.recordpower.co.uk/index.pl?p=RPMS-CX&a=i

http://www.cheyennesales.com/catalog/collext.htm

What other people think of them:

http://www.talkshopbot.com/forum/mes...tml?1106582368

I would use it as a last resort, too because of the "runout amplification"

[agent511]

With a standard sized plate, and with the original plastic router 'extra' plate removed, you should not have these problems.

You didn't mention what router you have. With many routers, when you snap the motor into the base, there are a few choices of snap in depth. Perhaps you do not have the motor snapped into the base as deep as it gets.

[liqdfire]

Collet Extender:

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...outcollet.html

Thank You I was having the same issue.

[Brian G]

RaptrFlite typed:
My Ryobi router (brand new) from HD doesn't seem to have come with a removable base on it.

I assume it's the RE180Pl, correct? If you need extra depth for table mounting, you can remove the springs. That's what I do.

That probably goes for just about any plunge router.

[vaking]

About Collet extenders:
I believe there are 2 kinds. MLCS type provides about 2" extension, comes in either 1/2" or 1/4" collet version and costs about $25 a piece. Similar units availabale from many manufacturers. Gets mostly negative reviews.
There is another type, made only by router technologies, called "Xtreme Xtension", costs everywhere between $65 and $70, provides 1-1/4" extension, comes only in 1/2" shank version but can use collet reducer and gets positive reviews.
Here is a link
http://www.woodpeck.com/xtremextension.html