36 Tooth Ryobi Blade

[Roger on the Rock]

I've just about finished setting up my new BT-3100 and have a question specifically about the blade that came with the saw.

It's the Chinese Ryobi - kinda looks like Freud - 36 tooth combination blade. I bought a Freud TK 306 when I bought the saw as I had heard that most blades that come with tablesaw's are basically junk. I intend to get a 24 tooth ripping blade and an 80 tooth crosscut/finishing blade for my more precise projects, but also wanted a decent combination for general work on decking, gazebo, shed cabinets, etc.

Looking at the two blades, they are the same kerf and both "look" good. (Groan!) Is the Chinese blade good enough considering the other blades I'm going to be getting, or should I keep the TK 306 and sell the stock blade at the yard sale??

If anybody has any experiences with this or any opinions (like there won't be any of those!! ) I'd really appreciate it.

Cheers,

Roger

[jspelbring]

Wwii

Shortly after I got my saw, I bought a WoodWorker II. It's the only blade I use ('cept for a dado). Cuts smooth without burns on everything I've thrown at it.

-Jon

[Ken Weaver]

Try out the stock blade before you throw it away. The jury is still out on how good it is. I have the Italian Freud, but use the WWII.

[bigsteel15]

I use the stock one for general purpose and have a Diablo for finish work.
Leardned a hard lesson though when I bought a 2-pack Diablo special. I didn't realize that the 1 blade was for CMS and the kerf is thinner than the thickness of the thingy behind the blade. (LOL... I'm drawing a blank)

[Roger on the Rock]

....riving knife??

[bigsteel15]

....riving knife??

There you go, Thank You.
Had a brain fart

[Roger on the Rock]

Brain Fart...used to hear that one in the Air Force all the time!!

So, this Forrest WoodWorker II....is this the blade to go for? Is it a compromise for both crosscut and ripping or is it really as good as the Forrest web site says it is? How is it with tearout on plywoods? What about power when ripping...does it bog down much? Wouldn't a 24T ripping blade be better? Does it really produce a glue ready cut?

Again, any experiences would be appreciated.

Cheers,

Roger

[JR]

I need a new ripping blade also and am looking forward to responses here. Thanks for starting the thread!

JR

[Knottscott]

IMO the TK306 has a slight advantage over the stock blade, but the LU86 has an advantage over both. Both of your current blades are worth more if unused. If you choose to sell it, I'd sell the stock blade here in the classifieds before putting it in a yard sale.

If the decision were mine, I'd sell both of your current blades and go for the 40T WWII TK...you'll never regret buying a great blade. It cuts cleaner than most of the 60T crosscut blades I've tried, like the Freud LU82, DeWalt DW7646 (series 60), Leitz 60T, Oldham 60T, and Ridgid 60T, and offers alot of versatility on a wide range of cuts and materials. It's very good on plywood....you'd have to get into like an 80T Hi-ATB blade to do better (LU80, Forrest Duraline). It'll rip pretty thick stuff too, and do it cleaner than a rip blade. Another possibility is the Freud LU88...it has a very slightly cleaner crosscut, but won't rip material that's as thick as the Forrest will. I've ripped 10/4" maple with the Forrest, but prefer not to. The biggest reason to use a 24T ripper is to save the teeth on the better blade during bull work. The Forrest is a great blade, but so is the Ridge Carbide TS2000. If you decide not to spend the $80 for either of these, I think the LU88 in conjuction with a decent 24T ripper (LU87, or DW7124 - $29) would give you alot of versatility, and capability of very clean cuts. It'll rip 1" stock pretty nicely. I don't know if it'll stay sharp as long as the Forrest, and it won't tolerate as many sharpenings but it's easier on the wallet.

[LCHIEN]

Brain Fart...used to hear that one in the Air Force all the time!!

So, this Forrest WoodWorker II....is this the blade to go for? Is it a compromise for both crosscut and ripping or is it really as good as the Forrest web site says it is? How is it with tearout on plywoods? What about power when ripping...does it bog down much? Wouldn't a 24T ripping blade be better? Does it really produce a glue ready cut?

Again, any experiences would be appreciated.

Cheers,

Roger

It (WWII) is the blade I usually keep on my saw. Great blade and so many people swear by it. The Ryobi-Freud blade is very, very good but you can tell the WWII is better in a side by side comparion. Not really sure I could identify which blade made the cut were I given just one sample cut to look at. I change to a ripping blade if i have to do a lot of deep ripping. I suspect but have not proved it to be more efficient.

Don't have enough people with both the Ryobi/Freud Italian blade and the Ryobi China blade to give a statistically significant response on a comparison.

[Roger on the Rock]

Thanks guys;

Anyone know of a decent Canadian supplier of the Forrest blades? Out here on the Rock I have to think about sharpening. With Canada Customs being what it is, I'd prefer not to have to send it to the US.

Cheers,

Roger

[Roger on the Rock]

Found one....Lee Valley. Don't know why I didn't check them out before I posted.....brain fart, I guess!!

I think I'll return the TK 306 and stick with the stock blade for practice and and a few rough projects I have in the beginning...shed cabinets, bit of decking, etc. I'll also get the WW II for the finer work and add a ripper if I find it's required.

Dustmight mentioned that the WW II does good work on plywood. I will be doing a fair bit of veneered plywood in my projects. Does anyone else have any opinion of how the WW II does here...good or bad.

Thanks again for the support.

Roger