Taking the plunge: newbie routing question

[davidtu]

I am using the Ryobi 180PL plunge router. I'm a bit confused, however, as most of the plunging seems to take place within the confines of the base... when I push it down all the way with all my weight it will push the bit down just over 1/4 inch or so. Is that the normal "reach" of a plunge router? Why does it bother plunging within the base at all? It seems like the base is the starting point of doing any work. (It says to seat the router bit 1/16" from as far as you can insert it in the collet, so I assume moving the bit is not the answer.) Could be I am not using the plunge mechanism correctly. What am I not getting?

Thanks,
Dave

[gsmittle]

I am using the Ryobi 180PL plunge router. I'm a bit confused, however, as most of the plunging seems to take place within the confines of the base... when I push it down all the way with all my weight it will push the bit down just over 1/4 inch or so. Is that the normal "reach" of a plunge router? Why does it bother plunging within the base at all? It seems like the base is the starting point of doing any work. (It says to seat the router bit 1/16" from as far as you can insert it in the collet, so I assume moving the bit is not the answer.) Could be I am not using the plunge mechanism correctly. What am I not getting?

Thanks,
Dave

I can't recall if I have that particular model (I tend to forget numbers within seconds), but most plunge routers have some sort of depth stop. It could be that the depth stop is er, stopping you from plunging the full depth. I haven't used too many different plunge routers, but all of the ones I've played with plunge pretty much all the way until the collet is almost touching the work.

Hope this helps.

g.

[beetee3]

Yes, the depth of plunge is normal. It might seem like a waste when you are using small edge profiling bits, but it you ever need to use a two inch long flush trimming pattern bit then you'll appreciate the need for all that extra 'plunge within the base'. I have a 180PL and have to say that I'm not terribly impressed by it. The springs are excessively strong and the plunge action isn't very smooth. A couple of years ago Santa brought me a Porter Cable 894 multibase router kit which is a far superiour beast. Since then the Ryobi hasn't seen much use.

[LCHIEN]

plunge routers usually have a travel of an inch or more.
Sounds like
1) you're hitting the depth stop settings. usually there's about 4 or 5 set with screww settings on a turret
2) the bit is hitting the table
3) the lock mechaniasm is not fully released.

[Deadhead]

I just checked the user manual for that router. Plunge depth is zero to two inches.
If you haven't already, loosen the lock knob and run the stop bar all the way up.

[gimpy]

I have that router, too. It does plunge a couple of inches. Make sure the stop bar is not tightened up all of the way down. Also, make sure the plunge release lever is not locked down. Also, make sure you do have the plunge base on and not the fixed base.

Frank

[davidtu]

I am not restricted by the stop bar, it's loose. I am just hitting the max compression of the springs, which are very strong, as someone commented.

I should mention that I am using a 1/4" straight bit. My impression from the manual (which conveniently I cannot find right now!) is that I should FULLY seat the bit and then back it out only 1/16". This seems excessive to me... the shank is quite long... seems like as long as the shaped part of the bit (where the Ryobi blue starts) is at least flush with the Collet it would be fine.

Of course, maybe that is a prescription for a hole in the head... literally. Is it? How much shank must be within the collet?

Thanks!

[LCHIEN]

I am not restricted by the stop bar, it's loose. I am just hitting the max compression of the springs, which are very strong, as someone commented.

I should mention that I am using a 1/4" straight bit. My impression from the manual (which conveniently I cannot find right now!) is that I should FULLY seat the bit and then back it out only 1/16". This seems excessive to me... the shank is quite long... seems like as long as the shaped part of the bit (where the Ryobi blue starts) is at least flush with the Collet it would be fine.

Of course, maybe that is a prescription for a hole in the head... literally. Is it? How much shank must be within the collet?

Thanks!

this discussion
http://www.bt3central.com/showthread...ghlight=o-ring

IF you are NOT AWARE, Routers pack 2 HP in a small instrument.
The router bit turns at 23,000 RPM. The energy involved in spinning things is proportional to the SQuared rate of rotation which means although the bit is small it packs a huge amount of energy spinning like it does.

Its very, very important to fully insert the bit shank as described above (e.g. the 1/16th from the bottom) or the bit may come flying out and believe me when it does it is a very bad thing at those speeds.

If the bit does not come flying out it can become bent (yes, really) at those speeds and unbalanced. Then the bits of carbide (the second hardest materials known to man) may come flying off the end of the bits at around 100 MPH.

If you read the other articles, we strongly recommend 1/2" shanks (on a skinny 1/4" straight bit, a 1/4" shank is OK) for you bigger bits due to the added strength.

Wear safety glasses and ear protection.


I don't want to scare you but you need to have utmost respect for the power of a spinning router bit and take very good precautions including following the rules about securing bits in the collet.
==============
Post-script
In re-reading your post, maybe i was a little hasty. You have a straight bit with a shank equal to the cutting diameter. I would say take one of three approaches:

1. Insert the bit until the cutting edges are at the mouth of the collet.
2. Take out the collet from the router and observe how long the collet is and make sure the bit shank engages at least 80-85% of the collet - the part that grabs the shank
3. Insert at least an inch (this would be the least reliable)

But I still stand by the above post - you cannot be too casual around a router. It's like a pet cobra.

[drumpriest]

Some suggestions for ya.

1. If you don't have one, get a solid carbide spiral upcut bit for plung routing, they are just over 10$. Rockler, Woodcraft, etc for a local place, MLCS online, for instance. A standard bit, even if you were to have travel, will only plunge about 1/16" before you have to move it back and forth to clear materal. The center of the bit will hit the material and stop you from plunging further. A spiral cutter moves the material up and away from the cut.

2. I've read different things about the amount of the bit that needs to be in the collet. I'd feel fairly safe with 80% or so in the collet. Not every bit can be bottomed out without the cutters being inside the collet. I never have a cutter inside my collet.

3. Loring is spot on, if you can get the bit in a 1/2" shank, do it. The only ones that I use regularly with a 1/4" shank are solid carbide. I've broken a 7/32" straight bit, and I'm VERY glad that it was burried under a dado cut.

[davidtu]

this discussion
http://www.bt3central.com/showthread...ghlight=o-ring

IF you are NOT AWARE, Routers pack 2 HP in a small instrument.
The router bit turns at 23,000 RPM. The energy involved in spinning things is proportional to the SQuared rate of rotation which means although the bit is small it packs a huge amount of energy spinning like it does.

Thanks Loring, no I was not aware of that. But I was aware that often these "innocent" looking tools are super-dangerous and being ill-informed is a good way to become ill-figured. So, that's why I asked! Thanks for the info.

-dave

[LCHIEN]

What happens if you insert a 1/4" shank halfway into the collet when the bit is unbalanced (in this case because the owner neglected to remove the plastic dip coating).

It can also happen if you do not insert the bit far enough and you try to feed the router to the wood too fast.

[wreckwriter]

What happens if you insert a 1/4" shank halfway into the collet when the bit is unbalanced (in this case because the owner neglected to remove the plastic dip coating).

Plastic dip coating?

[drumpriest]

Router bits are often coated before shipment. This is especially important for oversea transport. This coating is a waxy, plasticy stuff that should be removed before usage. Some people do leave it on and cut a scrap, letting the router remove it it in the process.

[wreckwriter]

How can you tell if its on there? Can you see it? If it is on there, how do you most easily get it off?

[davidtu]

I could be wrong, but I think if you look at that picture, the bottom half has a black plastic over the cutting surfaces... that is the plastic that looks ripped up, not the metal.