Confused Newbie

[Jeffrey Schronce]

Russianwolf you are absolutely correct. However I was trying to keep the though process simple for the new woodworker. I had typed all of that in my response and took it out for simplicity sake, but your post does serve to futher clarify.

As to both cuts being made on BT3 using rip fence, it does not have the capacity for the 48 to 40 cut using the fence does it? That is why I suggested that the cut be done using miter gauge, assuming there is 19" of distance between the blade, table and fully extended miter gauge.

[Wood_workur]

Yes, that was what I was talking about. If you are going to be ripping wide stuff only, then a gripper isn't need. It is really used for narrow (under 2") rips where the guard must be removed.

The guard is great, and it doesn't have the pawls that mar your wood. The gaurd moves up and down over the wood with ease, and it is so easy to use, you will actually use it.

As for the pawls, you can hit them with a file, to dull them enought to not mar yourt wood. They are naturally razor sharp, so don't worry. The springs are just fine tension-wise.

[woodrowB]

As for the pawls, you can hit them with a file, to dull them enough to not mar your wood.

How much can you file the prawls before they become ineffective? Or will rounding the teeth a bit be enough?

[wreckwriter]

How much can you file the prawls before they become ineffective? Or will rounding the teeth a bit be enough?

Just round them down a bit. If you can touch them without feeling like its going break your skin they're a lot less likely to mar your work. I did it on mine with a regular flat file; in the end I just got a Shark Guard.