Confused Newbie

[Jamb]

Hello everybody,

After some research I bought my first table saw a BT3100 for my new project – installing wainscoting in the hallway – that requires cutting 8” high baseboards, panels etc. I have a CMS that I used for trims and moldings but never used a table saw and wanted to learn some basics before making the first cut. I watched the DVD, read the manual, many of your comments on this forum, a few articles on other web sites and finally – I got totally confused. There are so many different opinions on what to use and how to use it. Fence or no fence, right side or left side of the blade, SMT, jigs, sled and so on. Instead of table saw, some people suggest using a band saw for ripping, CMS or RAS for miter and bevel cuts. Did I buy the wrong tool for my project? I need to cut off a few inches from a ¼” x24”x48” MDF panel and make it to 19”x40”. I have to make ten of those. I thought it is a simple task on a table saw. It turned out they are too wide for the SMT and the rule is; do not use the fence for crosscut, isn’t it? How can I cut them straight and identical on the short side without the fence? My other problem; I need to cut off a 5” long piece from a longer baseboard (width=8”) beveled in 45 degrees on both end but in different direction. (for outer corners of a |_| shape wall). On a CMS, you can lower the blade and align it with your mark but how do you do this on TS? What if I have to re-cut that short piece? How do you feed it and keep it square? How would you set up your BT3100 to make these cuts? Can you recommend a book or a web site where these basics are explained in details?

Thank you.

Jamb

[wreckwriter]

There's a lot to learn for sure. This is generally considered to be the best book I believe:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/156...lance&n=283155

Only problem I've found with it is that the author seems to be trying to get in the business of importing European table saws. Luckily the BT3 has many of the feautures that he refers to as being only found on European saws.

[LCHIEN]

Hello everybody,

After some research I bought my first table saw a BT3100 for my new project – installing wainscoting in the hallway – that requires cutting 8” high baseboards, panels etc. I have a CMS that I used for trims and moldings but never used a table saw and wanted to learn some basics before making the first cut. I watched the DVD, read the manual, many of your comments on this forum, a few articles on other web sites and finally – I got totally confused. There are so many different opinions on what to use and how to use it. Fence or no fence, right side or left side of the blade, SMT, jigs, sled and so on. Instead of table saw, some people suggest using a band saw for ripping, CMS or RAS for miter and bevel cuts. Did I buy the wrong tool for my project? I need to cut off a few inches from a ¼” x24”x48” MDF panel and make it to 19”x40”. I have to make ten of those. I thought it is a simple task on a table saw. It turned out they are too wide for the SMT and the rule is; do not use the fence for crosscut, isn’t it? How can I cut them straight and identical on the short side without the fence? My other problem; I need to cut off a 5” long piece from a longer baseboard (width=8”) beveled in 45 degrees on both end but in different direction. (for outer corners of a |_| shape wall). On a CMS, you can lower the blade and align it with your mark but how do you do this on TS? What if I have to re-cut that short piece? How do you feed it and keep it square? How would you set up your BT3100 to make these cuts? Can you recommend a book or a web site where these basics are explained in details?

Thank you.

Jamb

One of the things about Woodworking is that there are often many ways to do a job, what you choose and how well it works depend upon your tool arsenal, your skill and your preferences. There are fine differences depending upon the length and size of the workpiece as well.

I would say you have the right tool.

I think for the cut you are making e.g. a 24 x 48 panel trim some off the short end it would be OK to run the 24 inch edge along the rip fence. I would do this in a second because 24" is plenty long enough to ride controllably along the rip fence and 48" is not too long to handle.
Just don't use the SMT miter fence at the same time, that kind of dual fenceing can lead to a bind.

BTW I would also place the cut off between the rip fence and the blade, because I would not have to put the rip fence as much as 40" away. Just don't forget to allow for the blade kerf (the amount lost in the cut.).

As for cutting two miters on apiece of trim, it's always difficult to estimate exacly where the cut will land when its at an angle. I suggest clamp it to the miter fence, make a generous cut and see how far you missed, then adjust a bit closer and repeat until you get it just right.


Good luck!

[LarryG]

Welcome to the forum, Jamb.

Here's how it goes in my shop:

If I'm doing a crosscut narrow enough I can use my compound miter saw, I use my compound miter saw.

When the CMS won't reach, I use the sliding miter table on my BT3100.

When the sliding miter table won't reach, I use the rip fence on my BT3100, up to maximum panel proportions of about 2:1.

That is, if I had an 18" wide piece (too much for the SMT), as long it's not more than about 36" long, I'd feel comfortable using the rip fence. Much longer than the 2:1 ratio and there's too much chance of getting the panel cockeyed around the blade, with the attendant risk of kickback.

IOW, this is basically what Loring said.

In your case I'd cut the panel down to 40" long first, so you'd have the full 24" width to index against the rip fence, then rip the 24" x 40" panel down to your 19" width.

For the miter cut, again what Loring said. Start out a little oversize and "sneak up on" the final dimension you need.

But with both type cuts, don't do anything unless YOU are comfortable, regardless of what anyone here or elsewhere may say.

[Ken Weaver]

Let me see if I can help you out, although I'm no expert.

"I need to cut off a few inches from a ¼” x24”x48” MDF panel and make it to 19”x40”. I have to make ten of those."

Set up the BT for a 19" rip with the fence to the right of the blade. You might want to adjust the rails to the left some to support the wider side of the workpiece. Get some infeed and outfeed support (somethng like this http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=4603 - Home Depot has them as well) Take off your 19" rip one of the ten panels. You can then cut the 48x19 panels to 40". To do that I would use a straight edge and a circular saw as being more efficient rather than trying to cross cut a 48" long piece on the SMT. A 1/4" thick piece of MDF gets floppy and might break with too much of it hanging over the end of the BT.

"I need to cut off a 5” long piece from a longer baseboard (width=8”) beveled in 45 degrees on both end but in different direction. (for outer corners of a |_| shape wall)."

This is a little tricky, it sort of depends on the nature of the baseboard. If its plain with no cove cuts or fancy stuff then you're home free. In that case I'd cut a 6 1/2" or so piece of the baseboard (or what ever, just get more than your final dimension to allow for the length of the outside bevel cuts). Then lay the baseboard flat on the SMT with the finish side down on the SMT table. Tilt the blade to a 45 degree bevel and cut the bevel on one end. Then measure and mark the final width from the inside to inside of the bevel, that should match the width of the U shaped wall. To make the cut turn the baseboard 180 degrees. Then cut again sneaking up on the final mark, testing on the wall as you need to.

Maybe someone else could 'splain it better but hope this helps.

[Wood_workur]

Yeah, you got the right tool. I use my bt3100 for everything. I crosscut, and rip on it when ever I can. I have cms, but only use it for "carpendar-grade" cuts, where some roughness and in-accurarcy will not matter. I use my bandsaw for tapered cuts and curved cuts, but a bandsaw isn't really a tool you will use for home improvement like you said you want to use. For cutting beveled angles (angled across the short side of the wood, but the long side is a 90° cut (imagine on your cms that there is a 1x6 sitting on it. Now if you tilt the top part of your saw, you will have a bevel. If you rotate the bottom part, that has the throat plate (that surronds the blade when you have the blade completly lowered) you will have a miter cut.) Sorry for the legnth of that, but I have trouble explaining stuff sometimes.), you will have to tilt the blade, and you will push the wood up to the blade with the saw off. (I do this for all cuts) then align your wood with the blade properly. Back the wood up, and turn the saw on and make the cut.

NEVER, I MEAN NEVER, MAKE A CUT ON THE TABLE SAW WITHOUT ANYFENCE SUPPORTING THE WOOD. THIS IS SO IMPORTANT< I WILL SAY IT AGAIN: NEVER, I MEAN NEVER, MAKE A CUT ON THE TABLE SAW WITHOUT ANYFENCE SUPPORTING THE WOOD. THAT IS THE SECOND MOST IMPORTANT RULE OF USING A TABLESAW SAFELY. (THE FIRST RULE IS "THINK")

If you want to have full use of your hands after coming out of your shop, make sure you remove all jewerly before using ANY power tool, even if it is a sander. Also, make sure you keep hands away from moving parts. I would suggest getting a shark guard (Lee (skytooner) sells them) and a gripper for your saw. You may be looking at my post right now and be saying "Wait- I just spent $300 on a saw and now some guy wants me to spend and extra $180 on stuff for it?" Yes, get a shark guard, and a gripper, and you will not be sorry. Just look at it this way: How much would it cost you if you loose one finger? Isn't that less than how much the shark guard and the gripper would cost you?

Also, wait for George's (gmack5) post. He has a lot of useful infor for you.

And wait until after this thread dies, and print it ALL out, and read it, so you will know by heart how to safely use your saw.

Congrats on the new toy, no wait, tool, and hope you can sneak more past the wife before you get beat by her Just kidding. Have fun, and be safe.

Oh, and on the base board, tilt your saw blade, and then flip the piece you are cutting over and what not to make the bevels line up right.

Man this is a long post.

[btv]

If you're getting the lumber from one of the major lumber stores they will ruff cut it for you. A lot of times for free or a small charge (Check for sure). It's a lot easer to get it home. You just have to make sure you leave excess for finish cuts and you have to plan it all out.

[meika123]

Welcome to the forum, Jamb.

Here's how it goes in my shop:

That is, if I had an 18" wide piece (too much for the SMT), as long it's not more than about 36" long, I'd feel comfortable using the rip fence. Much longer than the 2:1 ratio and there's too much chance of getting the panel cockeyed around the blade, with the attendant risk of kickback.

Just remember what Norm said. Always concentrate on keeping the workpiece tight against the rip fence, and let the saw blade do its job. I have ripped 3/4" sheets of 4' x 8' plywood several times, but it's a white knuckle job. Normally I rip in half with my Circular saw, then through the TS.

In your case I'd cut the panel down to 40" long first, so you'd have the full 24" width to index against the rip fence, then rip the 24" x 40" panel down to your 19" width.

For the miter cut, again what Loring said. Start out a little oversize and "sneak up on" the final dimension you need.

But with both type cuts, don't do anything unless YOU are comfortable, regardless of what anyone here or elsewhere may say.

I concur.

Dave in NC

[Russianwolf]

as far as opinions go regarding what tool to use for which job. Well, There are tools that do some jobs easier than others and some tools that won't do a certain job safely at all. The Tablesaw is the MOST versatile tool in any workshop. It can be safely used to do almost anything that other saws can do, but may not be as efficient at times (miter cuts are a good example).

If you were going to cut miters all day long, as a friend of mine starting a picture framing business intends, Then a CMS is the way to go as it's very efficient to align to that job. But with a little practice or a jig, the TS can make them dead on also. But try to rip an 8 foot long board with the CMS.... can't be done.

You can rip a board with a RAS, but there is a significantly larger chance of kickback than with the TS with the splitter and other kickback devices used.

You can rip with a bandsaw, but it will likely be a rough cut, where a TS will give you a much smoother cut.


The others answered your questions as far as the cuts go.

Welcome aboard and have fun making sawdust, but above all be safe.

[gmack5]

Welcome Aboard!!!

Welcome Jamb, welcome to the "family".

One of the first things you need to do, after you get your BT3100 Table Saw assembled is, following your Owner's Manual, go thru the entire set-up proceedure, step by step, in the sequence laid out in the Manual.

Each set up proceedure builds on the one before it, so you MUST keep them in sequence.

Usually the Saw is set up properly, right out of the box, but you should still check it as this gets you familiar with all the adjustments on the saw and assures you that everything is as it should be.

Here's some free plans that'll keep you busy for a while. http://www.woodworkersworkshop.com/r...ex.php?cat=102

You might also want to check out the "FAQ" in a "sticky" at the beginning of the Getting Started Forum:
http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=19968
It'll answer a lot of your questions.

And here's some additional information about your Saw that you may find useful.

Regardless of what you've read or others have told you, NEVER NEVER use any wax or lubricant on your saw that contains Silicone, this includes all automobile waxes and polishes and most spray-on furniture polishes.

The reason is simple enough, most of them contain Silicones that will make your projects difficult to finish.
Silicones repell liquid, making "fish eyes" in your finishes, this will cause you to remove the Silicones from your project and start over. That stuff (Silicone) migrates all over every where, don't ask me how, it just does.

If you put it in one place, eventually it will be all over the entire saw.

Your best bet is to use a "dry" lubricant, such as Teflon (PTFE), Powdered Graphite, or Candle Wax (parafin) for the Raising/Lowering and Tilt mechanisms below the table top.
Do NOT use "oils" as they will get sticky and attract Saw Dust and "gum up" the mechanisms under the table top.

Use either Johnson's Paste Wax, Minwax's "Finishing Wax" or Butcher's Wax on the working surfaces, table tops (All three of them) and the Rip Fence.

Do NOT Wax the Front and Rear rails or the Miter Fence. As a mater of fact, you may want to glue 220 grit sand-paper to the front face of the Miter Fence, cause you don't WANT things to slide on there.

You might also want to check out the "Articles" section on the www.BT3central.com site. Lots of good maintenance information on your saw and some of the Jigs and Fixtures that BT3Central members and others have designed for it. Located here: http://www.bt3central.com/index.php?page=articles

The only thing you'll need to access the information is a recent copy of the Adobe Reader (It can be downloaded from the BTcentral site).

One of the Articles mentioned is a "Check List", written by Jim Frye. You can find it here: https://www.sawdustzone.org/articles...nce-check-list

This list contains all the different areas on your saw that need to be periodically inspected or given some sort of special attention. In other words, a "Preventative Maintanence Check List" or PM. Performing this PM on a monthly basis would be a good idea.

One of the other things you'll find there is an on-line copy of the User's Manual in downloadable pdf format (a handy thing to have).

Something you might think about is the use of a set of Draftsman's Triangles instead of the Carpenter's Square that they show in the Owner's Manual for setting up your saw.

An accurate Carpenter's Framing Square is almost a myth!

A good one will cost you quite a bit of money, $40 - $75, or more.

I would recommend that you consider using a pair of Draftsman's 30 -60 and 45 degree triangles instead. You'll find they're not near as expensive and are far more accurate than a run-of-the-mill Carpenter's Square. The 30-60 triangle should have one 12" leg and the other leg would be 9" long. The 45 degree triangle should have at least 8" legs on either side of the 90 degree corner.
That way either one can be put up against the side of the Saw Blade without touching the saw teeth.

Just remember, regardless of which measuring instrument you choose to use, check it(them) to be sure they're accurate. When checking the Miter Fence for Square to the Blade with a triangle, use the 12" 30-60, if possible.

One of the other "tricks" that I've discovered is to take a piece of "Wax" paper, fold it several times and rub it in the grooves that the "T" nuts that lock your Rails in place ride in. Makes the Rails move smooth as Butter.

Last, but not least, don't forget to paint the RED line!
It's a line that extends the line-of-sight from the saw blade to the front edge of the table to remind you NOT to let your Miter Fence or your FINGERS get in the way of the saw blade. Just put red paint, nail polish, or what ever, in the grove that extends towards the operator from the front edge of the saw blade.

[jabe]

Confused Newbie

As a retired High school woodshop teacher & currently full time cabinet maker, I would recommend you take an adult ed. class in woodworking. According to an OSHA data 90% of woodshop accidents happens on the table saw. I don't mean to scare you but I don't want anyone getting hurt. Just respect your TS.
All the advice you've been given on this post are sound but if you never used a TS before, it can be nerve wreaking when you first turn it on. Another must do is use a sharp blade, a blade that is suited to the material you're cutting. If you're ripping or cross cutting, use the proper blade.
I use Tenryu blades, on all of my saws, best bang for your bucks. I've used Forrest HI-ATB blades on melamine plywds and have gotten better cuts with the Tenryu Alumi-Cut 100T or Mel-Pro 100T blades (less chip outs). I own 2 table saws, a old Delta Milwaukee 10" tilting table saw & 6" jointer combination and was given a broken BT3000 which I rebuilt and leave at at my job sites. I also have a Saw Trax full size 64" panel saw, 1 Ryobi MS, 1 Hitachi CMS and 1 Hitachi sliding CMS, 2 worm drive 71/4" saws and 2 PC 6" saws. I'm contemplating on purchasing a Festool Plunge cut circular saw. A man just cannot have enough saws.

[Jeffrey Schronce]

I need to cut off a few inches from a ¼” x24”x48” MDF panel and make it to 19”x40”. I have to make ten of those. I thought it is a simple task on a table saw. It turned out they are too wide for the SMT and the rule is; do not use the fence for crosscut, isn’t it?

Both of these cuts should be made on the table saw. This isn't a cross cut in my book. On my saw (non-bt3) I would use fence to cut down from 24 to 19. Then I would turn the piece so I could "cross cut" the 48 down to 40. I would be comfortable using either miter gauge or using fence. I think the 19 has enough surface area to be held against a fence. However I dont know that you fence has that capacity and would think you would have to make the cut with miter gauge ( or sliding table . . .don;t know capacity).

[drumpriest]

I agree with Larry and Jeff, and just about everyone else here. MDF doesn't have long grain, regardless of how you cut it, it cuts the same. There really isn't a rip or crosscut involved with MDF or particleboard. You just cut it how it would make sense to cut it.

Both of those cuts can and should be done on a TS, and both using the rip fence.

[Russianwolf]

I have to disagree in part wit some of the others. "Rip-cut" and "cross-cut" I beleive are misnomers. I think it USUALLY follows with grain direction, but in reality has to do with long edge orientation.

My meaning is that the saw can't tell if you have a 1"Tx6"Wx36"L or a 1"Tx36"Wx6"L piece, but the orientation of the long edge is what dictates the safer cut. Long edge should be used either against the fence (rip or miter). In either of the pieces above, the 36 inch side should be against the fence as it provides the most control, grain direction be darned.

So by my definitions:

Rip-Cut is making cuts along the long axis of the board.

Cross-cut is making cuts across the long axis of the board.

[Jamb]

Thank you for your replies. I have learnt something from all of you.

I assembled the machine last night and made some adjustments. I found the blade angle about ½ a degree off. I have not made any test cut yet because it was too late to make noise, but turned it on for a sort time. I was surprised; it is much quieter than my CMS.
There is one thing I do not like. I slid a baseboard along the blade and the pawl scratched the surface of the painted wood. Are the teeth too sharp or the springs are too strong? …or both?

As for the cuts; I think, I am going to move the rip fence to the left side of the blade and trim off the short end first (40” right from the blade, waste between the fence and the blade) and than move the fence back to the right side and rip the long side to 19” (waste left of the blade). For the bevel cut, I will use the miter fence and turn the piece 180 degrees.

Loring:

BTW I would also place the cut off between the rip fence and the blade, because I would not have to put the rip fence as much as 40" away. Just don't forget to allow for the blade kerf (the amount lost in the cut.)

How do you put the rip fence 40” away? Do you use extension rails?

Ken: I don’t have a circular saw (yet). It has to be done on the BT.

Alex: Thank you for your safety advices. I will remember them.

I would suggest getting a shark guard (Lee (skytooner) sells them) and a gripper for your saw.

Are these the things you are talking about?
http://www.microjig.com/GRR-Ripper.htm
http://www.leestyron.com/sharkguard.php
Is it better than the original blade guard?

BTW: I thought about that but I still have to deal with a 40”+ board. Wouldn’t make too much difference.

Mike:

So by my definitions:
Rip-Cut is making cuts along the long axis of the board.
Cross-cut is making cuts across the long axis of the board.

That’s what I think, too.

Thanks again for your advice.