Basic rip question

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  • Stytooner
    Roll Tide RIP Lee
    • Dec 2002
    • 4301
    • Robertsdale, AL, USA.
    • BT3100

    #31
    Right.
    I didn't mean to make it sound like you always set them up fore and aft.
    Only that it shouldn't be on the blade itself.
    Though I have never used them aft of the blade that I can recall, there may be times when it is warranted. Not so with one by the blade.
    Also featherboards don't always have to apply pressure. They can also act as a fence or guide.
    Lee

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    • wreckwriter
      Established Member
      • Mar 2006
      • 449
      • South Florida
      • BT3100-1

      #32
      Originally posted by Stytooner
      Also featherboards don't always have to apply pressure. They can also act as a fence or guide.
      I wasn't planning on having mine push hard, more like this, as a guide. I have the orange plastic kind, BenchDog I think, not a nice wooden one yet.
      http://www.wreckwriter.com/

      Comment

      • Jeffrey Schronce
        Veteran Member
        • Nov 2005
        • 3822
        • York, PA, USA.
        • 22124

        #33
        Originally posted by wreckwriter
        I wasn't planning on having mine push hard, more like this, as a guide. I have the orange plastic kind, BenchDog I think, not a nice wooden one yet.
        I'll trade ya.

        Comment

        • wreckwriter
          Established Member
          • Mar 2006
          • 449
          • South Florida
          • BT3100-1

          #34
          Originally posted by Jeffrey Schronce
          I'll trade ya.
          You less than pleased with a wooden one? I got this one at Lowes for not a lot of $
          http://www.wreckwriter.com/

          Comment

          • Jeffrey Schronce
            Veteran Member
            • Nov 2005
            • 3822
            • York, PA, USA.
            • 22124

            #35
            Originally posted by wreckwriter
            You less than pleased with a wooden one? I got this one at Lowes for not a lot of $
            I just think that the Benchbog feather boards are the best around. My local Lowes sells them for $25 each.

            Comment

            • wreckwriter
              Established Member
              • Mar 2006
              • 449
              • South Florida
              • BT3100-1

              #36
              Originally posted by Jeffrey Schronce
              I just think that the Benchbog feather boards are the best around. My local Lowes sells them for $25 each.
              It might have been that much, really don't remember. I bought it because it was the kind they had, not a lot of choices around here for woodworking stuff. We have a Woodcraft but its quite a long drive so I haven't been there yet. Glad to hear I got a good one first try!
              http://www.wreckwriter.com/

              Comment

              • wreckwriter
                Established Member
                • Mar 2006
                • 449
                • South Florida
                • BT3100-1

                #37
                Update- cut made, no problems. The waste piece just laid there, under the guard. For the record I decided to stand on the right side, basically on the right end of the table as I felt I had most control that way since I needed to hold the piece flat as I started feeding it in. After I got most of the piece on the table I didn't need the other hand.

                I did get a bit of burning on the cut edge, I believe I fed a bit too fast.

                This also gave me the chance to test my shop-vac dust collection system; that also worked well.

                thanks for all the tips and the patience!

                Tom
                http://www.wreckwriter.com/

                Comment

                • Black wallnut
                  cycling to health
                  • Jan 2003
                  • 4715
                  • Ellensburg, Wa, USA.
                  • BT3k 1999

                  #38
                  Glad to hear that your cut turned out safely!

                  The burning is more likely caused by a slight mis-alignment of your fence and/ or too slow or jerky feed rate. Depending on wood species a momentary pause will leave a burn mark.

                  The kickback Lee is talking about was indeed mine and once my website comes back online there are pictures there of it. The work peice was rather large (2' x 3' x 3/4" ply) and it climbed the blade and pivioted.

                  No safety device can prevent all accidents but just a simple riving knife or even a spitter would have prevented mine. You will not find my saw without a Shark these days!
                  Donate to my Tour de Cure


                  marK in WA and Ryobi Fanatic Association State President ©

                  Head servant of the forum

                  ©

                  Comment

                  • wreckwriter
                    Established Member
                    • Mar 2006
                    • 449
                    • South Florida
                    • BT3100-1

                    #39
                    Originally posted by Black wallnut
                    Glad to hear that your cut turned out safely!

                    The burning is more likely caused by a slight mis-alignment of your fence and/ or too slow or jerky feed rate. Depending on wood species a momentary pause will leave a burn mark.
                    I think my fence is aligned properly but I'll buy jerky feeding. I had the featherboard a bit tight and I did have to pause during the feed. Hard to tell if its all burning though since there is a bit of blackish in the grain of the wood too.
                    http://www.wreckwriter.com/

                    Comment

                    • onedash
                      Veteran Member
                      • Mar 2005
                      • 1013
                      • Maryland
                      • Craftsman 22124

                      #40
                      I thought my fence was alligned properly too. Once I checked it with a board and nail on the same tooth front and back I noticed it was off a little. I also had my splitter lined up on the wrong side of the blade. Once I fixed that I hardley ever have any burns. Unless my wood isnt jointed and planed. Then I still get it sometimes. But There are ocassions I want to cut it first and its always less than perfect so I am extra carefull on those.
                      I almost always stand on the left side of the blade with my arm crossing over but I can turn the saw off with my leg if I have to too.
                      As far as small off cuts resting between the blade and guard I sometimes push the piece into the blade with the guard to float it out of there and get it off the table. If it wont come out I shut it down wait for the blade to stop and then grab it which can waste lots of time for repetitive cuts.
                      If its small enough to stay in there its probably not significatant enough to cause any damage. I guess its a judgment call. But when making a lot of rails and stiles recently and cutting them to final length with all cut offs an inch or less long Id rather clear em out instead of making the next cut with it still in there because they could bind up or go over the top of the blade become more dangerous then if they float out .
                      IMO if they are comming and hit a featherboard thats where your going to get unpredictable results.
                      YOU DONT HAVE TO TRAIN TO BE MISERABLE. YOU HAVE TO TRAIN TO ENDURE MISERY.

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