Basic rip question

[mschrank]

I figured it was common but its just a cut I've never done before. I've only made a handful of cuts, all crosscuts using the SMT up til now.

I spooked myself a bit by looking in a book that I have where the guy said it was dangerous ripping narrow pieces.

I applaud your trepidation about making a cut you haven't done before. You sound very safety conscious and that's a good thing. I'm glad you asked the question...that's what the folks on this forum are here for.

Also, I wouldn't consider 7" to be "narrow." In fact, I personally don't even grab a push stick until the piece is less than 3-4" wide...especially if you have the guard in place.

[wreckwriter]

I applaud your trepidation about making a cut you haven't done before. You sound very safety conscious and that's a good thing. I'm glad you asked the question...that's what the folks on this forum are here for.

Also, I wouldn't consider 7" to be "narrow." In fact, I personally don't even grab a push stick until the piece is less than 3-4" wide...especially if you have the guard in place.

I've worked around aircraft, boats, and other dangerous machinery for much of my life and I've seen people get hurt very badly by making one little mistake in judgement. I've made it to 48 years old by asking for advice on dealing with things I don't know much about which can bite.

This is my first table saw and only my third power saw of any sort. The first post I read here was from a guy that called himself "OneIndexFinger" or something similar. That in itself told me that I wanted to be careful with this thing.

You guys give great advice and are very patient. I appreciate it much.

[onedash]

What is the purpose of the feather board? If your fence is parallel to your blade and you have a good piece of wood there should be no need for a feather board.

[wreckwriter]

What is the purpose of the feather board? If your fence is parallel to your blade and you have a good piece of wood there should be no need for a feather board.

Is there any harm in the use of it? I have one, this seems the type cut its made for, I figured I'd try it out....

[Russianwolf]

I agree with Larry. The main idea here is to maintain control of the 7 inch piece. But the 1/8th inch piece COULD get kickback from being between the guard and blade. Not likely but possible. Thus my advice of standing slightly to the right during this cut, putting you directly behind the piece you will be in control of.

As far as not knowing wher a kickback is going. Well, I'll just say that from my observations, 9 out of 10 times the kickback shoots straight off the blade of the saw and back the way it came (at speeds much greater, however). Rarely do I have a situation where the piece can turn and be sent at a trajectory other than straight back the way it came. So usually the blade and fence act as a railgun.

[LarryG]

I really like, and enthusiasticaly second, Mike's (mshrank) comment about applauding you for asking this question. "Better safe than sorry" may be a tired old cliche but it's also inarguably wise. My attitude toward my tools is that I don't want to fear them, but I for d*mned sure better respect them.

Like onedash I probably wouldn't bother with a featherboard for this particular cut, either; but no, you're right, taking the time to rig one never hurts.

[wreckwriter]

I really like, and enthusiasticaly second, Mike's comment about applauding you for asking this question. "Better safe than sorry" may be a tired old cliche but it's also inarguably wise. My attitude toward my tools is that I don't want to fear them, but I for d*mned sure better respect them.

Like onedash I probably wouldn't bother with a featherboard for this particular cut, either; but no, you're right, taking the time to rig one never hurts.

I'm not scared to ask, even though I might feel a bit silly doing so. I've seen things go very far South and afterwards someone says "why didn't you ask how?", the other guy says "I didn't want to ask a stupid question". The moral is clear to me.

OK, if the featherboard isn't needed then at least I get free practice setting it up so I'll know how for the time when it is needed

[LarryG]

As far as not knowing wher a kickback is going. Well, I'll just say that from my observations, 9 out of 10 times the kickback shoots straight off the blade of the saw and back the way it came

But is that really "kickback"? I've personally never thought of it as such, but maybe it is, technically, a form of kickback. Small, narrow offcuts such as you describe do indeed tend to go straight back, and rather smartly, but I've never considered them particularly dangerous. In my experience they just sort of semi-float along until they clear the table and fall harmlessly to the floor. I've always thought of true "kickback" as being the really violent throws where the piece might bounce off the fence or blade or whatever ... those are the ones (which, luckily, I've never experienced myself) for which the flight path becomes virtually impossible to predict.

[Stytooner]

Sure. This is a good cut to learn how to setup a featherboard and use it. Remember though, the featherboard should be ahead of the blade. When the cut is complete, the offcut won't be in contact with the featherboard. It will be under the guard instead. If you used a featherboard beside the blade, you are certainly going to have trouble. You will have just created the railgun effect mentioned earlier, but on the featherboard side.
Featherboards always fore or aft of the blade. Rip fence hold downs don't really matter where they are positioned.

[wreckwriter]

Sure. This is a good cut to learn how to setup a featherboard and use it. Remember though, the featherboard should be ahead of the blade. When the cut is complete, the offcut won't be in contact with the featherboard. It will be under the guard instead. If you used a featherboard beside the blade, you are certainly going to have trouble. You will have just created the railgun effect mentioned earlier, but on the featherboard side.
Featherboards always fore or aft of the blade. Rip fence hold downs don't really matter where they are positioned.

Right. I knew that but appreciate it being mentioned in case I hadn't!

[Stytooner]

But is that really "kickback"? I've personally never thought of it as such, but maybe it is, technically, a form of kickback. Small, narrow offcuts such as you describe do indeed tend to go straight back, and rather smartly, but I've never considered them particularly dangerous. In my experience they just sort of semi-float along until they clear the table and fall harmlessly to the floor. I've always thought of true "kickback" as being the really violent throws where the piece might bounce off the fence or blade or whatever ... those are the ones (which, luckily, I've never experienced myself) for which the flight path becomes virtually impossible to predict.

I think much the same way, Larry.
True kickbacks most often go toward the operator and away from the rip fence. I think it may have been BW that posted a photo once of a curved cut in a piece of ply. The plywood spun on the blade as if it had a pivot. The only safe place in that situation would have been to the right of the rip fence.
Throw backs which go stright in line with the fence are usually produced by the from teeth. They can also bounce a part of the table so it can become airborne and be very serious. Ever heard of the old strw through a tree in a hurricane? Some of the same type forces can apply here to thin rips of wood. Especially if one is is sharp because you were straightening an edge. After every cut, I like kill the power when possible and get away from it. Its only safe to return once the blade is powered down. I don't do this with multiple repeatative cuts, but for single cut setups, you bet.

[LarryG]

Featherboards always fore or aft of the blade.

That's a new one on me. I've seen (and personally rigged) featherboards fore and aft of the bit on a router table, but that's a whole 'nother situation.

How do you safely rig a featherboard aft of the blade on a TS? Only way I can think is if you're making a shave-type cut, where the material being removed is completely eaten up by the blade. Otherwise, won't you be pinching the offcut against the blade or riving knife?

[Russianwolf]

But is that really "kickback"? I've personally never thought of it as such, but maybe it is, technically, a form of kickback. Small, narrow offcuts such as you describe do indeed tend to go straight back, and rather smartly, but I've never considered them particularly dangerous. In my experience they just sort of semi-float along until they clear the table and fall harmlessly to the floor. I've always thought of true "kickback" as being the really violent throws where the piece might bounce off the fence or blade or whatever ... those are the ones (which, luckily, I've never experienced myself) for which the flight path becomes virtually impossible to predict.

To me kickback is anytime the blade sends something off the front (usually) of the saw.

I had one occasion where a long narrow piece was shoot back at me (I was directly in line with the blade). It was traveling fast enough to shatter on my stomach. I don't know which piece did it, but it pierced my sweatshirt, t-shirt, and left a 1/4 inch long splinter (more a chunk of wood if you ask me) imbedded in me. Since then, I've had a couple hit the wall about 15 foot behind me.

But yes, I agree that when you are talking about shorter pieces that have a possibility of turning as the blade catches them, then you add some very interesting variables to the equation. Perfect example is when people try to use the rip fence in a crosscut operation. It's just asking for kickback.

[Jeffrey Schronce]

What is the purpose of the feather board? If your fence is parallel to your blade and you have a good piece of wood there should be no need for a feather board.

Wouldn't a tight feather board placed in the correct location serve to help prevent kickback, ie it is directional feed and will help stop the piece from traveling the wrong way. I maybe wrong but it makes sense to me.

[Jeffrey Schronce]

Oh ya, I'll add the following, though if you are reading a book and this forum you have already picked this up.
Make sure you have a sharp, clean blade.
Make sure your fence is properly aligned.