Squaring 4x4 with bandsaw

[Wilson]

When attempting to square a 4x4 section (about 8 inches long), what is the best order to cut the sides. After cutting the first side do I place the cut side against the table or the fence for the next cut. On a table saw I normally cut one edge then the opposite edge. This would mean that I would place the cut edge against the fence. Because my bandsaw fence is only 2 inches tall I thought that the table would provide a better surface to keep next cut square.

[Tom Miller]

Once we get past the fact that this is not the optimal setup for squaring stock, I'd say you probably want to use some kind of carrier board for this operation.

Once you make your first cut, and think you have a flat surface, put this flat surface down on the carrier board. The carrier board should have a straight edge that can ride against the fence. Then send the carrier and stock through to make your 90* face. From here, you can now complete the other two cuts with the fence alone.

Regards,
Tom

[Wilson]

Thanks Tom for the quick response.

Now for a real newbie question....

What exactly is a carrier board? Is it a board that is cut along with the stock I want to cut to better align and hold it?

What is an optimal setup for squaring stock? I only have a bandsaw and table saw and I am very new to this whole woodshop thing. (I did take shop in High School but that was 30 years ago)

[Tom Miller]

What exactly is a carrier board? Is it a board that is cut along with the stock I want to cut to better align and hold it?

Yep. Just a reasonably flat piece of flat stock (ply, mdf, particle board, etc.). You can use double sticky tape, or some other kind of clamping scheme to hold the stock. Some folks make or buy a purpose built clamping fixture.

What is an optimal setup for squaring stock? I only have a bandsaw and table saw and I am very new to this whole woodshop thing. (I did take shop in High School but that was 30 years ago)

Those'll work with the right technique, though the bandsaw is arguably the safer choice. If you had all ww'ing tools at your disposal, a jointer and planer would be the tools to use for this purpose.

You should consider getting a good ww'ing techniques book. They are probably the best and cheapest "tool" you'll ever buy. (Sometimes comments like that come off as condescending -- hope you don't take it that way! And I forgot to say "Welcome", so "Welcome"!)

Regards,
Tom

[LCHIEN]

(reply deleted)
never mind, i think I had too many drugs at the dentist this morning.
Tom, you're right, I don't know what I was thinking.

[Tom Miller]

If you flatten one side, A, I'd put that side against the table and then cut side B at 90° to side A.

That assumes side D (which is now riding the fence, and opposite side B, now being cut) is "well behaved". If it is, you're set. If not, get out the carrier board.

By "well behaved", I mean that it's not going to rock against the fence, AND, that the plane that is comprised by the points that touch the fence on side D is parallel to the plane that you'd like to cut on side B. In general, I'd say this is probably not a good assumption.

Regards,
Tom

[Black wallnut]

Normal Practice

Of squaring stock in a well equipped shop (jointer, planer, & table saw) is to first flatten one face with the jointer. Then with this flat face riding the fence, squaring an adjacent face. Plane to thickness and rip to width.

Assuming that your fence will guide the work piece in a straight line and your table is set at 90° to blade you could do the same thing. Given that you will need at least one straight edge to start with, which is what Tom is also telling you.

[Wilson]

Thanks to all of you in helping me understand what to do. At first I did not understand all the need for carrier boards and tape but that was because my stock is short enough and the shape made it possible to contact the fence at two points and the table with one point at all times during the cut. It is now obvious to me that larger more irregular shaped pieces need control to make them "more behaved"