What else do I need??

[Larry David]

I am just getting started in wordworking. My first several projects will involve installing crown molding, chair rails, wainscoting, trimming around windows and doors, wall frames and maybe even raised panels. After most of the trimwork is done I want to try my hand at building some built-in bookcases and shelving.

This is what I have so far:

BT3100...just bought that a few days ago
Air compressor
16 gauge finish nailer
18 gauge brad nailer
18 gauge stapler
12" compound miter saw
12" 1hp band saw
circular saw
jig saw...Skil (a cheapo)
several drills
biscuit joiner
Porter Cable router 690 w/ fixed and plunge bases
orbital sander, 1/4 sheet sander, 3x21 belt sander

I am thinking about getting the following:

Makita planer, Makita 2012NB 12" Portable Planer

6 1/8" benchtop jointer, Delta JT160 Shopmaster 6" Bench Top Jointer
or a stationary, Craftsman Professional 6-1/8 in. Jointer/Planer.

Craftsman 15" Drill Press

Router table...are the Ryobi router combo kits ok? Are they crap?Comes with table and a fixed base Ryobi router.

Do I need these, will they come in handy, or just a waste?

Any suggestion are greatly appreciated...thanks

I originally and accidentally posted this under bargain alerts...sorry about that

[LarryG]

I was all set to buy that Makita planer when Lowe's decided to close out their Delta line and I was able to snag the 22-580 two-speed 13" planer for $229. It'll cost you ~$360 today but that's still considerably cheaper than the Makita, and I think it's a better tool.

You have a good start on a serious woodshop and with that in mind, you'll be MUCH happier with a floor-standing jointer in the long run. Several good choices in the $325 to $400 range.

Can't advise you on that drill press, but will note that you'll use a DP a LOT more than you might think, so it's good that you have one is on your list.

Don't buy any commercial router table; build one. Not at all difficult and you can make it exactly the way you want it. For a router, I'd recommend a model you can eventually put into a lift. Or you could buy an extra fixed base for your 690 (an excellent workhorse router) to mount in your table, leaving both bases you already have available for hand work.

The only other thing I see missing from your list that might be needed for the projects you have in mind would be a good selection of router bits. It is, after all, the bit collection that really makes a router come into its own.

[Tom Miller]

Ditto what Larry said about floor-standing jointer, and make your own router table. The beauty of the second one being you can start with just the top, and build the rest around it as time permits, and after you know more about what you want.

Concerning the DP: I think the number one priority is to get all the quill travel you can. 4-3/8" is the number to beat. (That's on a Jet 17".)

Regards,
Tom

[Jeffrey Schronce]

Router table would be high on the list, along with wide selection of needed router bits (not saying buy a 100 piece crap set).
I would agree, building your own table is the way to go.
Cheap way out I would recommend buying Rousseu Router Table plate for around $35. Seems to be a very nice plate and guaranteed not to flex. If you have a few more bucks I would get a Woodpecker lift for around $130. I would NOT buy and another fixed base for the PC 690, cause you'll probably end up paying $50 for it, when you could buy another good fixed base router for around $100.
As far as jointer and planer, what is your source of wood? Do you buy wood at HD or Lowes, or do you want to start finishing your own rough milled wood? Are you incrediably tight for space/budget? Next year you will want to move up from a 6" jointer, particularly a benchtop, if you are planning to do extensive jointing. If you are not doing extensive jointing, then why buy on? That of course is just my opinion.

[Knottscott]

The Makita planer is pretty well liked by most owners and it's the quietest in it's class. FWIW, I'm very happy with my Delta 22-580 planer.

I agree with the others about a stationary jointer. Skip the bench model. If money is the driving factor for the JT160, then you might consider the Harbor Freight floor jointer in the same price range.

I also agree about getting or building a router table...it'll open up all kinds of possibilities for the router....or another router!

[LCHIEN]

yeah, skip the benchtop jointer and get a good floor-standing one - that's a mistake I made.
You're well equipped. Maybe you need some wood.

[Larry David]

Wow!...Thanks for the replies. A good point was made by Jeffrey regarding source of wood. I will most likely buy all my wood at HD, Lowes or 84...so far that has been the case 100% of the time. So if I am not buying rough cut wood I guess there is not a significant need for a planer or jointer...right??

Maybe a jointer would still be nice to have to run a piece through after I rip it on the BT3100. The BT3100 leaves a pretty clean surface though. Or maybe a real good hand held power planer would serve well in that regard.

Maybe that money is better spent on a drill press, building/buying a router table and 1/2" router bits.

[preamble]

If your intent is to do woodwork the you might want to go with a jointer. A 6" jointer will let you thickness plane boards up to 6" wide, safely down to 1/4 " or so. This would also allow you to finish mill table saw riped boards etc. An actual thickness planer would allow you to break the 6" barrier but it doesn't sound like you will need that for a while.

You never said but if you indent on making your own moldings then a router table or better yet a shaper would be highest on the list.

As faw as wood choices go, if you plan on painting your moldings then you can use cheaper woods like pine, poplar, or even MDF.

Good luck and enjoy your BT

[Ken Weaver]

Welcome aboard Larry! FWIW, I have the Ryobi router table and router, does fine for my projects but I'm not into shaping my own trim or anything.

[Wood_workur]

I was at rockler, and saw a PC router that is designed for tables: you could activate spindle lock, chande height, and lock height from above the table. Also, don't use a router plate if you don't need it.

[just4funsies]

I'll ditto preamble on the shaper. You can make your own mouldings to spec, and save money over finished millwork on every job. You might stick to prefab on the crowns, however, as they are tougher and more hazardous to make, and you'll turn a LOT of lumber into shavings.

[guycox]

Clamps... Workbench.

[LCHIEN]

quote:Originally posted by Larry David

... I will most likely buy all my wood at HD, Lowes or 84...so far that has been the case 100% of the time. ...

NooooooOO![:0]

you need to explore hardwood lumber sources and find the real joy of woodworking.

[Larry David]

quote:Originally posted by LCHIEN

quote:Originally posted by Larry David

... I will most likely buy all my wood at HD, Lowes or 84...so far that has been the case 100% of the time. ...

NooooooOO![:0]

you need to explore hardwood lumber sources and find the real joy of woodworking.

So if I do that I'll [u]need</u> a planer and jointer, right?

[LCHIEN]

quote:Originally posted by Larry David

quote:Originally posted by LCHIEN

quote:Originally posted by Larry David

... I will most likely buy all my wood at HD, Lowes or 84...so far that has been the case 100% of the time. ...

NooooooOO![:0]

you need to explore hardwood lumber sources and find the real joy of woodworking.

So if I do that I'll [u]need</u> a planer and jointer, right?

yes, but practically speaking, with a lot of the wood you get fromthe box stores, you'll also need to plane and joint because it's not all perfectly flat and dimensioned.