bench dogs

[thestinker]

Ok...I am about to unveil my ignorance. All I have used are clamps and large table mounted vises to hold stuff down. I saw a post where someone was making a bench and were installing and actual woodworking vise and the topic of bench dogs came up. What is a bench dog and how does it work?? I read they hold stuff on edge while you work on it. I can understand how a bench hold down works, but how does a 3/4" dowl sicking up hold anything on edge. Am I the only person who doesn't use these and I'm missing out on something great, or is this only something you need if you do a lot of hand planing and such? I googled all kinds of bench dogs and vises and what not and mainly got debates on round vs square... not how to use them. Sory for the dumb question.

RS

[RickT]

Hi Riley,
Bench dogs are square pegs (usually metal) on top of a round stem that fits into a round hole on one's work bench. They function as a stop that holds a workpiece in place on one end. The other end is usually a bench vise or clamp. A workbench with bench dog holes has them set every few inches so you can move the bench dogs to accomodate different sized workpieces. I searched and found this picture. Hope this helps.
Rick

[leehljp]

Not everything needs to be held down from the top. I often through a board or piece of furniture on my bench top and just need something sticking up behind it to keep it from moving as I push, sand or whatever. They make good quick back stops to keep things from sliding. Used with a vice on the end, it hold tight.

There are several versions that even use the holes to become a clamp from the top.

Go to www.rockler.com and type in "bench dogs".

[thestinker]

OK. Now I see what you are tliking about as far as using it as a "backstop" or what not. Also I see how clamping someting to a bench dog would be usefull. I guess its about time for me to get a "real" workbench instead of the 6 pannel door covered with 1/4" plywood.

[Tom Miller]

They're not necessarily for holding things on edge. In fact, they're more for holding flat stock by its edges. Dogs in dogholes usually work in conjunction with a dog in a face vise (two rows of dogholes running from front to back of bench), or a dog in a tail vise (one row of holes along the front of the bench).

This photo shows a bed post held by a "home brew" substitute for a tail vise, and a dog along the front of the bench:






Here's another photo I just posted in another thread showing dogholes for a front vise:



Regards,
Tom

[poolhound]

What more can you tell us about your "home brew" tail vise. I am trying to figure out what to do with a bench reconfig project and this might help.

Also anybody have any other vise advise - trying to figure out wether to buy one, make one etc.....

Jon

[Tom Miller]

What more can you tell us about your "home brew" tail vise.

I posted some details about it here. Let me know if you'd like any more info.

Regards,
Tom

[scorrpio]

Also anybody have any other vise advise - trying to figure out wether to buy one, make one etc.....

Check Grizzly catalog. I think they got the best deal on Woodworking vise. In parcticular, bench vise hardware for only $30. Mount it on your bench so that apron works as stationary jaw, and provide your own wooden moving jaw. Works for either front(face) vise or end vise. They also sell screws for building your own tail vise.

On the workbench top, dogs are usually used to secure the stock flat Dog holes can also accomodate hold-down clamps, provide points for securing of jigs, tools, fences etc.
Many benches have dog holes not only on the top - but also along the apron and in the bench legs. Thes can help you support long pieces on edge. Clamp one end of long board in the front vise, and insert a couple dogs in the apron to support the other end and center.

[JimD]

I used an improvised bench dog just a couple nights ago. I needed to belt sand the fronts of some drawers that are 7 inches wide by about 30 inches long. The seven inch dimension would fit in the vise on my bench but that is not the most conveninent way to use it since I also had to sand the edges. Instead, I took a piece of hardwood scrap that is the width of my workbench and clamped it across the bench about 28 inches from the bench vise. Now I could pin the drawer front between the dog in the moving jaw of the vise and the improvised bench dog (the clamped down scrap). The vise was open about the thickness of the drawer front so it was easy to move between surfaces.

I also have some plastic bench dogs from Rockler that go in 3/4 holes on the bench surface. They are close to the same thing that come with B&D's portable work benches. I need to drill the holes and stop using my clamped down scrap. Plastic is nice for bench dogs just in case you hit the dog with a plane or something else with a sharpened edge.

Jim

[russd]

Quick and dirty, rubber cruch tip & wood dowel.

[meika123]

They're not necessarily for holding things on edge. In fact, they're more for holding flat stock by its edges. Dogs in dogholes usually work in conjunction with a dog in a face vise (two rows of dogholes running from front to back of bench), or a dog in a tail vise (one row of holes along the front of the bench).

This photo shows a bed post held by a "home brew" substitute for a tail vise, and a dog along the front of the bench:






Here's another photo I just posted in another thread showing dogholes for a front vise:



Regards,
Tom

I did something very similar to this. I took large dowel rods and machined one end small enough to fit into the dog holes. Works great, and is definitely cheap.

Dave in NC

[poolhound]

drilling dog holes

I am abut to try and drill the dog holes. I was about to use a 3/4 straight router bit which should get me ~ 1" deep. My only option from there is a 3/4 spade bit. I figured that with the routed hole as a pilot it should keep the spade straight the rest of the way.

Good or bad idea, other options?

How deep should they be? My top is ~ 1 3/4 tottal depth

Jon

[LCHIEN]

I am abut to try and drill the dog holes. I was about to use a 3/4 straight router bit which should get me ~ 1" deep. My only option from there is a 3/4 spade bit. I figured that with the routed hole as a pilot it should keep the spade straight the rest of the way.

Good or bad idea, other options?

How deep should they be? My top is ~ 1 3/4 tottal depth

Jon

A spade bit, because of the fact that there's nothing to guide it after the first inch of the spade, can actually go off a straight line hole. The skinny shaft is free to move anywhere in the top of the hole it wants to.
I think some people use this to their advantage but for dog holes you want it straight!

[JimD]

Jon,

Depth depends on your dogs and how tolerant you are of dust. Dust will collect unless you go all the way through. A little deeper than the shaft on your bench dogs would allow a little dust buildup.

The cutting length of a router bit does not indicate how deep a hole you can make. The depth is limited by the length of the router bit outside the chuck and how much plunge depth you have on your plunge router. In many cases, you could go all the way through with a plunge router. I hadn't thought of using mine but I might. I had planned to use a forstener bit and my portalign drill guide with a portable drill (probably corded by possibly my 18V Ryobi cordless).

Jim