Router and what not.

[Ib]

I'm thinking about buying a 3100, largely because of the integrated router table. I'll also buy a router sometime soon.

Which routers have 3100 users had success with?

[LarryG]

quote:Originally posted by Ib

Which routers have 3100 users had success with?

Lots and lots of 'em, especially those that come in the two-base kits that most manufacturers offer. These allow you to mount the fixed base to the BT's accessory table and use the more versatile plunge base by hand.

The Bosch 1617EVSPK is one such kit that is fairly popular here. But there's also the DeWalt 618, Makita 1101 (what I happen to own), two or three different Porter-Cable models, more. Most of these have routers rated at 2.25HP, which is usually adequate unless you'll be turning a lot of big bits (panel-raisers and the like) for extended periods of time.

The plunge-only Hitachi M12V is popular, largely because it's a 3.25HP model (as big as routers get) that for a long while sold for around $160, and sometimes as low as $135. With the aforementioned kits selling for $200-230, this made the M12V very attractive but its price is more like $200 now.

AFAIK, only Ryobi and certain Craftsman routers bolt straight up to the mounting plate in the router mounting kit (optional; does not come with the saw). But mounting any other brand is as easy as drilling three or four countersunk holes to match those in the router's base.

I see you're a first-time poster ... welcome to the forum!

[vaking]

Don't buy BT3100 for the router table - buy it for the saw itself. BT3100 is a great saw for a hobbyist. It is not heavy duty enough for professionals but it is as precise as very professional cabinetmaker saws. You will not be able to match its precision even at twice the money. Regarding routers:
In addition to BT3100 itself Ryobi sells "router mounting kit". The kit is not that great, many people live without it. The kit includes a make-shift router fence and mounting hardware for router. The fence people usually replace anyway, the mounting hardware you can make yourself too but it will take a little work.
Without the kit or other hardware you can mount into the BT3100 only Craftsman or Ryobi routers. After you get or make mounting plate you can mount almost any router. The fence is up to you.

[maxparot]

I have a Hitachi KM12VC installed in the accessory table right now.

[LCHIEN]

quote:Originally posted by Ib

I'm thinking about buying a 3100, largely because of the integrated router table. I'll also buy a router sometime soon.

Which routers have 3100 users had success with?

You may wish to read the FAQ. The question of routers to use with the BT is a very frequent question, it was also posted within the last week at least once. Also the discussion on the utility of the integrated router table.

The FAQ has brief, concise by fairly complete and consensus answers distilled from past forum discussions. The FAQ can be found by going to the first, permanent post under Getting STarted and clicking the link. Once within the FAQ, do a search for router and you'll find a lot more info.

[LarryG]

Alex mentioned one of two things I forgot, which is that you don't HAVE to use Ryobi's router mounting kit. About the only thing you cannot make yourself are the plastic rings that fit into the hole in the accessory table, to choke down the bit opening. But those are sometimes available for purchase from someone who has no use for them.

The other thing I forgot: for a router that will be used at least part of the time in a table, the one feature you should insist on is variable speed. One reason for using a table is when the bit is too large to be safely used by hand; and a bit that large needs to run at a lower speed than the 20-24,000 RPM most single-speed routers turn.

Which reminds me of a THIRD thing: one limitation of the BT's accessory table is that the bit hole is only 2-3/8" in diameter, and that's not big enough for the largest horizontal panel-raising bits. It is, however, big enough for most everything else.

[monte]

Welcome to the group Ian.

[mater]

Welcome to the forum Ian.

[RickT]

I have the Porter-Cable 890. My router table is shop-made. I agree that one should buy the BT3100 for the saw and not the router (accessory) table.

[Knottscott]

With minor effort, you should be able to fit nearly any router. You can also install other router extensions with some custom fitting or make your own.

[Ib]

Thanks for the prompt advice. Now I just need to convince my wife that dropping $200 on a table saw* and $200+ on a router and bits is a good idea.

Again, the advice is really appreciated.


*$250 at the Willow Grove Home Depot, with a $50 mail in rebate.

[jhart]

It's one heck of a saw for $200.00. I have a Craftsman Router mounted to mine. Fir like a glove.

Welcome to the forum. You'll kike it here.

[gmack5]

Welcome Ian,

Congratulations on the acquisition of your BT3100 and welcome to the "family".

One of the first things you need to do, after you get your BT3100 Saw assembled is, following your Owner's Manual, go thru the entire set-up proceedure, step by step, in the sequence laid out in the Manual. Each set up proceedure builds on the preceeding one, so you MUST keep them in sequence.
Usually the Saw is set up properly, right out of the box, but you should still check it as this gets you familiar with all the adjustments on the saw and assures you that everything is as it should be.

Here's some free plans that'll keep you busy for a while. http://www.woodworkersworkshop.com/r...ex.php?cat=102

And here's some additional information about your Saw that you may find useful.

Regardless of what you've read or others have told you, NEVER NEVER use any wax or lubricant on your saw that contains Silicone, this includes all automobile waxes and polishes and most spray-on furniture polishes. The reason is simple, most of them contain Silicones and they will make your projects difficult to finish.
Silicones repell liquid, making "fish eyes" in your finishes, this will force you to remove the Silicones from your project and start over. That stuff (Silicone) migrates all over every where, don't ask me how, it just does.
If you put it in one place, eventually it will be all over the
entire saw.

Your best bet is to use a "dry" lubricant, such as Teflon (PTFE), Powdered Graphite, or Candle Wax for the Raising/Lowering and Tilt mechanisms below the table top.

Then use either Johnson's Paste Wax, Minwax's "Finishing Wax" or Butcher's Wax on the working surfaces, table tops (All three of them) and the Rip Fence.

Do NOT Wax the Front and Rear rails or the Miter Fence. As a mater of fact, you may want to glue 220 grit sand-paper to the front face of the Miter Fence, cause you don't WANT things to slide on there.

You might also want to check out the "Articles" section on the www.BT3central.com site. Lots of good maintenance information on your saw and some of the Jigs and Fixtures that BT3Central members and others have designed for it. Located here: http://www.bt3central.com/articles/ The only thing you'll need to access the information is a recent copy of the Adobe Reader (It can be downloaded from the BTcentral site). One of the Articles mentioned is a "Check List", written by Jim Frye. You can find it here: https://www.sawdustzone.org/articles...nce-check-list

This list contains all the different areas on your saw that need to be periodically inspected or given some sort of special attention. In other words, a "Preventative Maintanence Check List" or PM. Performing this PM on a monthly basis would be a good idea. One of the other things you'll find there is an on-line copy of the User's Manual in downloadable pdf format (a handy thing to have).

Something you might think about is the use of a set of Draftsman's Triangles instead of the Carpenter's Square that they show in the Owner's Manual for setting up your saw.
An accurate Carpenter's Square is almost a myth!
A good one will cost you quite a bit of money, $40 - $75, or more. I would recommend that you consider using a pair of Draftsman's 30 -60 and 45 degree triangles instead. You'll find they're not near as expensive and are far more accurate than a run-of-the-mill Carpenter's Square. The 30 -60 triangle should have one 12" leg and the other leg would be 9" long. The 45 degree triangle should have at least 8" legs on either side of the 90 degree corner. That way either one can be put up against the side of the Saw Blade without touching the saw teeth.

Just remember, regardless of which measuring instrument you choose to use, check it(them) to be sure they're accurate. When checking the Miter Fence for Square to the Blade with a triangle, use the 12" 30-60, if possible.

One of the other "tricks" that I've discovered is to take a piece of "Wax" paper, fold it several times and rub it in the grooves that the "T" nuts that lock your Rails in place ride in. Makes the Rails move smooth as Butter.

Last, but not least, don't forget to paint the RED line!
It's a line that extends the line-of-sight from the saw blade to the front edge of the table to remind you NOT to let your Miter Fence or your FINGERS get in the way of the saw blade. Just put red paint, nail polish, or what ever, in the grove that extends towards the operator from the front edge of the saw blade.

You might also want to check out the "FAQ" shown in the link below.
http://www.bt3central.com/forum/topi...TOPIC_ID=12490
It'll answer a lot of your questions.