Router Bit advice

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  • txruby98
    Forum Newbie
    • Jan 2006
    • 26
    • .

    #1

    Router Bit advice

    Can anybody comment on the quality of these bits?

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...lance&n=228013

    Hickory Woodworking RBK1031 24-Piece Carbide Master Router Bit Set, 1/2" Shank

    It seems like a large set for some different uses, at a cheap price.
    Does this seem like a reasonable “starter” set of bits?

    Thanks… louis

    From the Manufacturer
    The Hickory Woodworking 1/2-inch, 24-piece router bit set comes in a handy reusable case and includes the most popular types and sizes of bits:
    • 3/8" keyhole bit used for plunge cutting keyhole-shaped mounting slots in items such as picture frames and plaques.
    • 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", and 3/4" straight bits used for plunge cutting, and to make a wide variety of grooves and joints, such as rabbet joints, grooves and dadoes, lap joint, box joint, tongue & groove joints.
    • 90 degree 1/2" V-Groove bit used to cut veins in panels or drawer fronts. Can also be used to plunge cut. By using a fence this bit can also be used to chamfer.
    • 3/8" & 1/2" dovetail bits used to make blind, through, sliding, and variable space dovetail joints in projects such as drawers, jewelry boxes, shadow boxes, and furniture.
    • 1/4" & 1/2" Core Box (round nose) bits used for fluting, grooving, veining, and sign making. If used with an edge guide or fence, this bit can also produce cove style edges and joints.
    • 1/2" flush trimmer bit with bearing used for fast, accurate trim cuts of laminates and veneers
    • 1/8", 1/4", 3/8" & 1/2" round over bits with bearings used to make uniform rounded edges for projects such as shelves, tables and stair treads. Also to make a half round cut by removing bearing, and making two passes, one on each side of the wood. By changing to a 3/8" bearing, the round over bit converts to a beading bit to create edges for furniture, chair rails, drawer fronts, and moldings.
    • 7/8" rabbeting bit with bearing used to produce inset doors and drawer faces, and to make lap joints.
    • 5/32" Roman ogee bit with bearing used for decorative edges on moldings, signs, plaques, and furniture.
    • 1/4" & 3/8" cove bits with bearings used to make decorative edges on drawer fronts, cabinet doors, moldings, and furniture pieces.
    • 1/4" ovolo (beading groove) bit used to make decorative edges in moldings and furniture. Used to cut the decorative groove in French Provincial style doors and cabinets.
    • 1/2" hinge mortising bit used to make mortises when cut is started at the edge of the material, and for surfacing operations and projects requiring effective chip clearance.
    • 45 degree 1-1/4" chamfer bit with bearing used for laminate trimming, edge forming, edge gluing to make bevel cutting easier, or make custom four-sided items such as fishing rod holders.
    • 1/4" panel pilot bit used to cut wood, plywood, aluminum sheets, insulation, and drywall. Point drills through for self-starting blind hole routing, and the pilot acts as a guide for template work.
    • 3/16" half round bitused to achieve special effect shelve edges, stair treads, sills, etc.
  • scorrpio
    Veteran Member
    • Dec 2005
    • 1566
    • Wayne, NJ, USA.

    #2
    Dunno about those, but Blades'n'Bits sells a 30 bit 1/2" shank set for about $45, and that's a proven quality.

    Comment

    • waterpro
      Forum Newbie
      • Nov 2005
      • 60
      • Grover Beach, CA, USA.

      #3
      I originally asked this question a while back. I had a $50 amazon gift card so I went for it. I will soon be returning them. The blade dulled really fast and i was seeing chip outs within minutes. The plastic carrying case, is well, cheap. And the thing that put me over the edge was the fact that the bits don't actually sit in the case. The carbide blades are pushing into the plastic case. That can't be good for the bits. I am still within the 30 day return policy so I am going to be returning them this week. I would not suggest getting them.

      Instead I am going to be ordering from bladesNBits or MCSL instead. The will be around the same price, and I've heard excellent reviews from fellow boardsman on them.

      Comment

      • vaking
        Veteran Member
        • Apr 2005
        • 1428
        • Montclair, NJ, USA.
        • Ryobi BT3100-1

        #4
        Hickory bits are made by Oldham, one of the oldest well-established manufacturers and now it is a part of the same B&D family which also includes Delta, Dewalt, Porter-Cable and more. I did noticed however, that Oldham is steering customer towards their higher end Viper bits, not Hickory. Here is the link to the site:
        http://www.oldham-usa.com/
        Alex V

        Comment

        • txruby98
          Forum Newbie
          • Jan 2006
          • 26
          • .

          #5
          wow, thanks for the information- you guys are a really great source of woodworking information...


          louis

          Comment

          • Knottscott
            Veteran Member
            • Dec 2004
            • 3815
            • Rochester, NY.
            • 2008 Shop Fox W1677

            #6
            I'm skiddish about Oldham/Hickory products because my experiences with them have been poor. I have several inexpensive router bits from MLCS, Holbren, Price Cutter, Lee Valley, Grizzly, Hickory, TWC, HF and Woodcraft. All dulled faster than my Whiteside and Freud bits, but all but the Hickory performed well when new and were considered good purchases for the price. The Hickory bits left more burning and an unsatisfactory edge from the start and were not good purchases.

            I've owned many saw blades...including blades from Freud, Leitz, Oldham, Vermont American, Forrest, Skil, Ridge Carbide, Porter Cable, Shop Hawk (Big Lots) and DeWalt. The Forrest and Ridge Carbide are in a separate league...elite. The Leitz, DeWalt, and Freud were excellent for the price and very good overall IMO. The PC was ok, the VA was fine when sharp but dulled quickly, but the Oldham 60T finishing blade never gave good cuts....worst blade I've owned and a waste of $20. The Shop Hawk blade was $5 and is fine for dirty work and cuts about as well as the Oldham...got what I paid for.

            I realize that Oldham makes some better quality blades than the one I bought from HD and many people have different results than I have. You'd be hard pressed to buy a bad Freud blade or bit, but due to the sheer numbers of sales, it does happen occasionally. But I've also read of several others who were also not pleased with their Hickory/Oldham purchases even though they appear to sell far fewer items than Freud and some others. Based on my poor experiences and reading about other's poor experiences, I wouldn't buy their products again, and hesitate to recommend them to others.

            For value sets Holbren, MLCS, Price Cutter, BladesnBits, Woodcraft, Woodline and others offer good deals that I'm more confident in.

            Happiness is sort of like wetting your pants....everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth.

            Comment

            • monte
              ***** Windbag
              • Dec 2002
              • 5242
              • Paw Paw, MI, USA.
              • GI 50-185M

              #7
              I would go with Holbren or Bladesnbits. Both have proven quality.
              Monte (another darksider)
              Reporting Live from somewhere near Kalamazoo

              http://community.webshots.com/user/monte49002

              Comment

              • thrytis
                Senior Member
                • May 2004
                • 552
                • Concord, NC, USA.
                • Delta Unisaw

                #8
                I have that set. My flush trim bit carbide chipped my first or second use. They were very nice about replacing it... no returns needed and no questions asked, they just shipped me a new one. The others have been okay. It was a good mix of bits for me. Were i to do it over i would go with Holbren or Bladesnbits, but now that i have a starter set i'm buying new bits one at a time as needed.
                Eric

                Comment

                • vaking
                  Veteran Member
                  • Apr 2005
                  • 1428
                  • Montclair, NJ, USA.
                  • Ryobi BT3100-1

                  #9
                  Most manufacturers make a range of products, from high end to low. I never had an Oldham blade (marked as Oldham) but I have a "woodworker's choice" blade. This is a high-end Oldham product and it is a fine blade. I can easily put it into same category as Freud-made stock blade on Ryobi at least. I never had a hickory router bit but I would be tempted to try a Viper bit - high end bits from Oldham. I have few Craftsman Professional bits and they work well. The worst bits I ever owned are craftsman non-pro series. I tried a Skill bit once - also crap but I am sure Bosch bits are fine. Freud makes blades for woodworking and blades for construction (Diablo line) - I am sure they are not the same quality.
                  Alex V

                  Comment

                  • LCHIEN
                    Super Moderator
                    • Dec 2002
                    • 22040
                    • Katy, TX, USA.
                    • BT3000 vintage 1999

                    #10
                    I believe the guys are right - hickory is the economy line of Oldham.

                    MLCS, B&B, Holbren are all specialist houses dealing with pretty much strictly router bits.

                    One thing I will commend MLCS on is their great catalog and documentation - the printed and on-line catalog are easy to navigate and has all the 1st class illustrations and dimensions about the bit and which are the popular bits for certain usages - makes it easy to pick. And they have on on-line/downloadable or printed (mailed for free, too) manual that tells you exactly how to use all bits including the specialty exotic bits like rail and stile, Miter lock and drop leaf bits.
                    www.mlcswoodworking.com
                    Loring in Katy, TX USA
                    If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
                    BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

                    Comment

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