which router bits to get?

[waterpro]

I just purchased a new router (which will eventually be mounted in my new BT3100) and to be honest have never even used a router. I am currently researching router bits and have a few questions for you guys.

1) I've noticed that most bits these days are carbid tipped. But I've seen various descriptions of them though. C2, C3, Carbid with Tungston, etc, etc. So the question is what is the difference between all these grades of carbid. Which ones are the best and worst?

2) The difference between 1/2" and 1/4" shanks. My router has adapters for both sizes. I am assuming that 1/2" are superior to 1/4" because they less suseptable to heat and warping like the 1/4" ones are. I am also assuming that 1/2" would be superior for bits that remove lots of wood. Am I right on the money with this thinking?

3) I am currently looking to get a nice set of starter bits. Nothing real expensive as I have never used a router before so I don't want to ruin nice ones such as Freud bits or anything like that. I have looked at the following two sets...

Amazon has the Hickory 24 bit 1/2" shanks on sale for $49.99 right now (see below)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...lance&n=228013

and Home Depot has the 25 bit 1/4" shank on sale for $61 (-10% coupon, so around $55). I would post a link to it, but Home Depots website is all messed up. But you can see the set I am talking about if do a search for A25RS25.

The Hickory ones are receiving decent reviews but i can't find anything for the Ryobi bits. I am leaning towards the Hickory ones because they are 1/2". I guess I should ask if color makes a difference as well? Do you think the fact that the Hickory ones are a neutral brown color that they will be hard to see when operating? I think the blue ryobi ones would be easier to see when working with, any thoughts?

[gsmittle]

I'm fairly new to routing, too, but I'll take a crack at a couple of these:

1) Beats the heck out of me.

2) Sounds pretty good. In addition, the 1/2 inch bits have a larger area where the cutter part (I have no idea what it's called) meets the shank. I would assume that this larger join is better.

3) Try Blades 'n Bits for a starter set. They're fairly inexpensive but pretty good for the money. You can find everything from a 12-bit starter set (what I bought) to a 50-bit set. Seems to be a one-man operation, too. All my questions have been promptly answered. Here's the URL, since I haven't figured out how to post a link yet: www.bladesnbits.com

Happy routing!

g.

[Knottscott]

There are always varying opinions on the best route, but it sounds to me like you're a reasonable candidate for a small starter set with 1/2" shanks. The Hickory bits are not top of the line but should be fine...and so are other decent quality bits like MLCS, Bladesnbits or Holbren. Sometimes they have some great deals....MLCS offers a 15 piece set for $40 delivered. This type of set will let you get your feet wet at a modest cost. They will wear out faster than the top of the line bits from Freud, Whiteside, Amana, etc., but should still provide you with a few years of service. Purists tend to recommend buying good quality bits as needed, but if you don't know what you like or what you'll use it can be difficult.

A good alternative might be to get a very basic 7 piece set of the most commonly used profiles from Whiteside through Hartville Tool...~ $80 that will last for many years and are quite possibly worth sharpening. Then you can add specialty profiles as needed. If the Whiteside set is not on sale through Hartville, mention the Woodnet 15% discount or type it in the shipping comments.

I don't typically recommend spending alot of money on a large multipiece "value" quality set, b/c you're still getting the medium quality, still parting with alot of money, and will end up with many bits you won't use.

[Pappy]

I would also recommend a 25-30 piece starter set from Holbren, BladesnBits or MLCS. These will give you a decent variety without breaking the bank. As time goes by you can upgrade to better bits, such as Witeside, for those you will use a lot.

Although there are some bits that are only available in 1/4" shank, when possible stay with 1/2". They are much stronger and less prone to damage.

[LCHIEN]

I'll try and answer your Q#1
Tungsten-Carbide is a steel alloy which has properties good for cutters - its hard and wears very well and takes a good edge. Varying proportions of the alloy materials gives different grades - C2, C3, C4 are commonly used for woodworking. Within those three grades the properties vary slightly (bear in mind that there are a lot more grades but they are used for metalworking and not necessarily suited for WWing)

I don't actually even remember which way it goes but one is harder and will hold an edge longer but the tradeoff is more brittle and easier to chip. The other end is less brittle but wears a little faster. I think in general, any of these will do for you.

Most of the time they're just called carbide bits. Carbide with tungten, or tungsten-carbide, just trying to make it sound more impressive, my guess.

moving on,
1/2 shanks, definately (some skinny bits only come in 1/4") for the reasons they are much stouter and less vibration etc.

Personally I have liked the MLCS (www.mlcswoodworking.com) 30-piece set for ~$100, I know the quality and service is good and always free shipping. The other sets mentioned, Holbren, & Blades and Bits, I'm not sure what they cut to make them that cheap but it may also be a good way to go. Any way you go, buying the assortment assures you have many common profiles (so you can easily and cheaply experiment with different looks) for a much lower cost per bit vs. buying individual bits.

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...s/set30pc.html

[kyle.w]

carbid tipped are the best to buy.

[Jim-Iowa]

There are many different theorys on buying bits.
Some will say but only the very best and only what you need to do the job you are currently working on.
Others will say buy an inexpensive to medium priced set of bits.
Then as you see you use a particular bit enough to wear it out, replace it with a premium bit.
I am squarely in the second camp, you really don`t understand what a bit and you can do untill you`ve tried it.
As for the 1/4" vs 1/2 bit, the heavier 1/2" bit is not going to vibrate or flex giving a better cut. Also it will be safer.
Untill recently, my only routers were 1/4" only so I have a good assortment of 1/4" bits. Of the ones I use most Rabbiting, laminate trim etc, I have some Whiteside and Amanna but paid nearly as much for one bit as a full assortment.
Now I have to start mt 1/2" collection.
Menards also has the Hicory assortments, and I have a 1/4"(49.95 at my local store) set that is pretty good. I will buy the same assortment in 1/2"(59.95). and build on it.
I have no doubt there are better bits out there, but when you have around $4.00 or less in each bit, how can you go wrong?
Besides there are jobs you might use them for you would not want to risk a $35 bit on.

[waterpro]

Thanks guys for all your help. I think I am definately going to go for the 1/2" set. My first project is to make a mirror for our bathroom remodel. So I was looking for a rail and stile bit as well. I noticed that sears has a 1/2" rail/stile reversable bit on clearance for $19.99 so I picked one up. Their normal price was $39.99 for this bit. Figured it would be a decent first bit. Thanks again everyone. I'll be sure to post some picks of my first project after I'm done.

[dkhoward]

I knjow Im a little late on this thread but Im gonna toss in my dime as well.

I try never to go low end when buying cutting tools (IE saw blades, router bits, etc.) This is where the rubber meets the road as far as wood working is concerned and it is my opinion that it is where a bad choice will show the most. The most expensive tool you can buy will not make a cheap bit or saw blade cut right. You can put a really good bit in a cheap router and expect it to do a pretty decent job.

I also dont like sets. I like to buy router bits as I need them and buy the best I can find. I would rather put $200 in 4 bits that I use than $100 in 15 bits and find that I only use 4 of them on a regular basis. I am a big fan of Freud, bits and saw blades.

So, that is my two cents worth.

[RickT]

I'm with Dennis. I was tempted by the 1/2" shank set of Hickery and bought it. I returned it the next day. I looked through the set and thought I'd probably use only a few of the bits. I've since purchased the bits I need for a project. My preference is Whiteside. They are high quality bits, and they are not painted, so they don't leave a color on the workpiece I'm routing. As for 1/4" vs. 1/2", it depends. I like 1/2" shank bits because they less likely to bend. But I have a few 1/4" shank bits (laminate trim bit, chamfer bit, etc.) because I can use them in a small trim router as well as my PC890. That's my 2 cents worth. Heck, that's probably worth 3 cents.
Rick

[d_b_wells]

I am also new to routing (and everything else BTW).

I bought the 24 piece 1/4" bit set last month from Holbren. I've only used a few of the bits so far, but I'm very happy with them. They were $24 SHIPPED (and at the time, I'm not sure if he is still doing this but he shipped 2 extra plywood dado bits free, in their own wooden box!).

I pretty much used up the 1/2" mortising bit that came with the set making a lot of dadoes in plywood for a cabinet (silly but I don't have a 1/2" collet for my router so I can't make use of the free plywood bits yet).

I made about 12' of cherry picture frame stock today using the 1/2" rabbeting, 5/32 roman ogee, 45 chamfer, and 1/4 cove bits. It looks awesome and the bits performed well (at least to my untrained senses).

I think that set is a no-brainer for the price. The offer still may stand on the plywood bits (must have been an overstock or something. Brian that runs the Holbren site is on this forum, so he may see this and respond.

[monte]

Go with an assortment from MLCS, Blades N Bits, or Holbren.

[LarryG]

The pros and cons of the various buying strategies have been well covered, but I will add one other point that I don't think had been mentioned:

The router bits you buy today are NOT a lifetime investment. Router bits are consumables; they wear out astonishingly quickly. Even a top-quality bit will have a useful life of only about 250-300 lineal feet of cutting before it degrades noticeably.

[scorrpio]

I will chime in - 1/2" shank is better if the bit you need comes in that size. One problem, however, is that if you plan on getting a smaller palm router for trim work, I don't think there are any that take 1/2" shank. One would think at least ONE tool company would by now realize that there are people out there with hundreds or dollars worth of 1/2" bits who would *love* to get a palm router for light work that would not make them invest in a whole new bunch of bits...

Since you are new to router work, getting a well-sized set of lower-priced bits is probably best for you. Lets you goof around, experiment, etc. And as your bits wear out, replace the ones that see most work with quality bits. One plus I did not see mentioned here: these bit sets usually come with real nice storage cases that keep your bits well-protected and organized. And it is not that uncommon to see a bunch of individually bought quality bits that cost $20-60 each just rattling around in a toolbox. With a set, throw out a worn out bit, and store the new quality bit in its place.

[vaking]

I will chime in with the Scorrpio.
I agree that 1/2" shank is generally superior for many reasons but I also think that for edging work trim router is the best tool and it does not accept 1/2" shank. As a result, I use my rotozip as a trim router with roundover bits, laminate trim bits, small ogees, etc a lot. All other bits I use either hand-held or in the table and I would prefer them with 1/2" shank. I do not expect to see trim routers with 1/2" colletts any time soon, however. If I were the manufacturer, I would not have made it for liability reasons. If you make small router with 1/2" collett, there will always be an idiot who will put in a panel raizer bit in it, cut himself into pieces and will sue you for making unsafe tool. We have already seen people trying to buy collett extender that would also give them ability to put in 1/2" shank bits into router with 1/4" collett only. That would top off my list of things not to do. As for bit selection, I started my routing life with a set of 20 bits from Costco for $40, Mastercraft brand, it is still available and it is a decent set. After that I started buying bits individually on either per project basis or extremely popular type on huge discount only and individual bits I buy only 1/2" shank if they exist. By now my 1/2" collection is about same size as my original set.