routing holes?

[jamesr]

Hello,

Fairly new to wood working and have a bt3100 + accessory kit + ryobi router..

I need to make this piece for a project I am working on which requires 4 channels 1/4" tall by 3/4" wide. Basically locations for screws to slide left to right. It's a bracket for a monitor (75mm VESA).

My question is how should I make the holes? My first attempt was to just use a drill and drill 3 1/4" holes next to one another.. Didn't work too well at all. I was thinking that I could use the router to make them, but wasn't sure. I would need to setup some type of stops because I wouldnt' be able to see what I was.. I'd also have to "drop down" onto the router unless I guess I drilled one hole first.. Then I'd need also purchase a router bit which was at least 3/4" since that is the thickness of the material I am working with...

I think my best bet might just be a drill press? Thanks for giving this newbie any advice..

-jr

[dkhoward]

Two or three options come to mind.

1. Build a jig to allow you to rout the slots.

2. Use a forstner bit to drill most of the slots and then clean out the rest with a chisel.

3. Just use a chisel to create the whole slot.

[jamesr]

Dennis,

Thanks for the reply. I'm thinking the jig I would make would basically be something to just limit the movement of the material.

Why would a forstner bit be better for this application if I wanted to just drill the 3 holes and then clean it up with a chisel? Do you think a drill press would be needed or a hand drill would suffice? Obviously a drill press would make it much easier and alot more accurate..

-jr

[Stick]

Another option would be to use the router in the accessory table and rig up a stop on the fence. You could start with holes and rout between them, if you have a bit that is end cutting, as in suitable for plunge routing. Or, if you're comfortable with it, do the whole slot as a plunge cut on the accessory table, just take light cuts until you're through.

[dkhoward]

jr.
If I were to build the jig, it would not only hold the working material, but would also limit the movement of the router to accurately place the slots.

I like forstner bits fo this kind of work because they typically leave nice clean edges, a relatively flat bottom and, if used in a drill press, you can overlap the holes to eliminate as much material as possible.

I think it is a toss up. I get a lot of pleasure from doing handwork so the chisels appeal to me. On the other hand, if you are a router fan, building jigs can be a real treat, especially if you design one which you can share with others to do a job in a really slick way.

Sticks method is a good suggestion also. I didn't opt for that one for purely personal reasons. I hate working blind. However, it is a common technique and lots of people have really good luck with it.

By the way, I rarely try to use a forstner bit in a hand drill.

[Popeye]

Use the router fence. Mark the both edges of the bit on the fence with a square. Most of the time pencil marks will do. Mark the ends of the slots completely across the piece. Set the fence the distance from the center of the slot. Plunge the piece back alittle bit from your end marks and sneak up on them. Another way would be to drill the each end and route the center useing the above method. Pat

[jamesr]

I am going to go with the router method and just setup the fence on the bt3100.. I think I'll just mark the edges and then mark the fence as 'popeye' suggested. I'll have to make a few passes raising the piece each time...

I'll let everyone know how it turns out.

Thanks,

-jr

[LCHIEN]

four is borderline but what I would do for any "complex" hole or slot
is make a template by gluing two long pieces and two skinny pieces to make a slot 1/2" x 1-1/4".
then use a 1/2" OD guide bushing to route the slot with a 1/4" upcut sprial router bit in a plunge router.
Make the jig big enough to clamp to the workpiece with clamps outside the 6" diameter of the base.

[jamesr]

Loring,

Thanks for the tip. This makes sense. You are basically making a channel for the 1/2" OD guide bushing to ride in. I don't understand the reason for the upcut sprial router bit. What I have is a 1/4" carbide tipped straight cut bit. I would think that this would work.

... but don't have a plunge router just an fixed base.. Don't have any guide bushings either.. Without the plunge router I'd need to drop the whole router in.. should be doable though.. I really need to just practice on some scrap..

thanks,
-jr

[LCHIEN]

quote:Originally posted by jamesr

Loring,

Thanks for the tip. This makes sense. You are basically making a channel for the 1/2" OD guide bushing to ride in. I don't understand the reason for the upcut sprial router bit. What I have is a 1/4" carbide tipped straight cut bit. I would think that this would work.

... but don't have a plunge router just an fixed base.. Don't have any guide bushings either.. Without the plunge router I'd need to drop the whole router in.. should be doable though.. I really need to just practice on some scrap..

thanks,
-jr

yeah you can use a fixed base, just tilt the bit in.
And it doesn't take a spiral up cut but it does work nicer.
Cleans the chips out and cuts cleaner.
Just make sure to only take about 1/8 or 3/16" depth per pass with any bit.

[jamesr]

I have a R1801M1 router with the R181FB1 fixed base.. Does anyone know where I could locate guide bushing for this? I've found a few threads on google that it's non standard?

-jr

[LCHIEN]

quote:Originally posted by jamesr

I have a R1801M1 router with the R181FB1 fixed base.. Does anyone know where I could locate guide bushing for this? I've found a few threads on google that it's non standard?

-jr

Another solution is make a guide for the router base.
Opening 6" wide by 6-3/4" long - this lets the router shuttle back and forth 3/4" (assuming your base is 6" diameter.) Then you don't need a guide bushing. It's also easier to clamp...

To locate it you need extended centerlines on your workpiece and
centerlines on the template going down the inside edges.
With this kind of base, 1/4" plywood or MDF works fine.

[jamesr]

Hello,

ended up making the guide which is 6" x 6 3/4" long and the router base slides in there.. Make it out of some pine I had laying around.. made a test run with it and it seems to be working fine..

Thanks to everyone for their suggestions..

-jr