Router Question Changing Elevation

[TheHinge]

I have a Sears router 315.17480. I've never used a router. I have it underneath my router table. How do I change the height of the bit
through the table? Is it okay if I ask that in this forum? Thank you.
The router was give to me (inherited). I have to rout a dado at a
certain depth. Please tell me also, how do I get the existng bit off?
Thank you again.

[Black wallnut]

Your router is what is called a fixed base router. On the side of the base is a clasp type clamp. Open this to free the motor in the base. Once this is done you will either have to push on the motor or turn the motor to adjust bit depth.

To change bits you will need the supplied "collet wrench"available from Sears Parts, part #1-623813-03 for ~$3. Since only one wrench appears to be supplied with this model there should be some sort of shaft lock on the motor. Lock the shaft and use the wrench to loosen the collet to change bits.
This is a great place to ask this question, however it would be wise for you to either get a user's manual for your specific router and/or a good book about routers. If you have The Router Workshop on your local PBS affilate watching just one episode would teach you lots of the very basic things you will need to know.

[TheHinge]

Thank you. I found the clamp. I used a couple of wrenches to remove the collet. What I found was that the bit fits in the collet, but that nothing holds in the bit. It just sits in there. What would keep it from flying out? It doesn't screw into anything in the shaft that I could find, just comes in and out. The bit itself screws onto the end of the piece that fits into the collet.

[Black wallnut]

When you tighten the collet nut you compress the collets "fingers" around the bits shank. Thus holding it tightly.

[TheHinge]

I guess I shouldn't been pullin' on it when it was connected to the router

[TheHinge]

quote:Originally posted by Black wallnut

When you tighten the collet nut you compress the collets "fingers" around the bits shank. Thus holding it tightly.

Will modern bits fit it as long as they are 1/4" shank? Are all bits create equally? I have been trying to find a 1/8" straight bit for a dado and cannot find one except in the higher priced ones. For example, at HD they have the 1/4" Ryobi straight for $6.98, but that is as small as they go. I have to go up to the Porter Cable or Bosch (Lowe's) to get a staight cut 1/8" at $13.98. Thanks for helping me.

[Black wallnut]

Yes all 1/4" shanked bits should fit just fine.

What are you building that you need an 1/8" dado?

All bits are not created equal but in such a small size there is probabaly little difference. Carbide bits are the only ones really worth buying IMHO. HSS bits produce poor cuts and wear out quickly plus have a tendency to burn the wood if your feed rate is not perfect. Higher priced bits should have a better grade of carbide but this is not always the case. The only way to tell carbide quality is to ask the manufacturer or seller (only if the seller's main business is router bits).

[LCHIEN]

If you want an 1/8th inch wide slot the best bet would be to use a standard kerf blade set for a partial cut.

A 1/8th inch straight router bit will be a bit "fragile" - you have to take care not to cut too deep or push too hard.

The "Box" stores - HD and Lowes, generally don't have a good router bit selection.

Most of those old craftsman routers have a "lock" actuator that locks the shaft and allows you to use a single collet wrench.

Also most of those old craftsman routers have a plastic rotating rig that adjusts the depth/height of the motor. After unlocking the clamp, you have to turn the ring and it may require some help when mounted upside down in the table.

[TheHinge]

quote:Originally posted by Black wallnut

Yes all 1/4" shanked bits should fit just fine.

What are you building that you need an 1/8" dado?

A pencil box. The plans call for a 1/8" dado.

[TheHinge]

quote:Originally posted by LCHIEN

If you want an 1/8th inch wide slot the best bet would be to use a standard kerf blade set for a partial cut.

A 1/8th inch straight router bit will be a bit "fragile" - you have to take care not to cut too deep or push too hard.

The "Box" stores - HD and Lowes, generally don't have a good router bit selection.

I measured the kerf and it is 3/32" (the stock BT3100 blade), just under, so I decided to put on all the router attachments on the saw and get the straight cut 1/8" router bit.

Which store (on or offline) do you recommend for router bits?

[Hoover]

quote:Originally posted by TheHinge
Which store (on or offline) do you recommend for router bits?

There are two vendors who advertise on this site, that sell quality bits at a reasonable price:

1. http://www.holbren.com/

2. http://www.bladesnbits.com/

If you go through the above urls, this website gets credit for the sale, and helps keep the site on the web.

[Anthony]

quote:Originally posted by TheHinge

I have a Sears router 315.17480. I've never used a router. I have it underneath my router table. How do I change the height of the bit
through the table? Is it okay if I ask that in this forum? Thank you.
The router was give to me (inherited). I have to rout a dado at a
certain depth. Please tell me also, how do I get the existng bit off?
Thank you again.

Also, my old sears router was awkward upside down. I dont even think the motor was sealed against dust..
Hinge. be careful with that radial arm saw you got.
Good luck

[Tom Hintz]

quote:Originally posted by TheHinge

It doesn't screw into anything in the shaft that I could find, just comes in and out. The bit itself screws onto the end of the piece that fits into the collet.

Welcome to woodworking and this forum!
One thing concerns me is the last line of your message above about the bit screwing onto another piece. Make very sure that this is in fact a router bit and not a Dremel or similar tool. Not many router bits actually screw onto a shaft but there are lots of Dremel and other rotary tool bits that do.
Thsi would be a good time to hit a few of the bit manufacturer sites and get some catalogs to see some of the bits that are available out there for future reference. I keep several around for when I need ideas on how to treat something to dress it up.

[dlminehart]

And Hinge, understand that a router bit rotating at 20,000 rpm is a very dangerous hunk of metal! If you haven't tightened it properly into the collet, it can fly out and do some damage to you or your surroundings. Get a manual, do some reading (and TV viewing if possible), and be sure you know what you're up to!

[Pappy]

Most of my router bits came from MLCS, Holbren, and BladesnBits. There are, however, some circumstances that warrant spending the $$$ for 'better' bits.

1. Bits that are going to see a lot of use.

2. Bits that are weak by nature of their design. (An 1/8" straight of spiral cut bit would fall into this category.)

In these cases, Whiteside bits are near the top af the line. If you have a Woodcraft store near you, they should have them. If not call the tool supply places in your area.