small wood dice

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  • LCHIEN
    Internet Fact Checker
    • Dec 2002
    • 20914
    • Katy, TX, USA.
    • BT3000 vintage 1999

    small wood dice

    Just screwing around working on techniques.

    Learned a few things!
    Attached Files
    Loring in Katy, TX USA
    If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
    BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions
  • Dedpedal
    Established Member
    • Feb 2020
    • 255
    • Palm Coast Florida
    • One BT3000 in use and one for parts. Plus a BT3100

    #2
    Cool! I made a set last year..

    Comment

    • leehljp
      Just me
      • Dec 2002
      • 8429
      • Tunica, MS
      • BT3000/3100

      #3
      That is absolutely excellent! I love the bevel and the precise location of the dots.

      Are you going to put your brand on them?

      One of my daughters, and my wife also, asked me once to make a set of dominos out of wood. I told them I could but it would be useless as it wouldn't take but one game to recognize the patterns on the back in relation to the numbers. I could out of corian or other plastic/acrylic. They wanted me to make a very thick set that would not fall over.

      Learned a few things!
      Anything in particular? Or that you were more skilled than you realized? Again, That is excellent!
      Hank Lee

      Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

      Comment

      • LCHIEN
        Internet Fact Checker
        • Dec 2002
        • 20914
        • Katy, TX, USA.
        • BT3000 vintage 1999

        #4
        dots on dice are officially known as pips.

        Things I learned.
        • I made some 2-/12" or 3" dice some time back and they are much easier than 1-1/4" dice like these. Easier to hold and route edges, location errors are the same but proportionally much more significant.. Grain is a much bigger factor
        • It was pretty easy to cut precise squares on the table saw and then cut them precisely to cubes on the miter saw with a stop. All the cubes were within a few thou.
        • On small die brad point holes did not look too good with the dimple; regular 118° twist drills left a pleasing bottom.
        • A good depth stop is a great thing on a drill press for making toys with stopped holes.(well, I already knew that)
        • Without the brad point (even with it sometimes) drilling into grain really wants to make the bit walk, I could see a 1/4" bit with just 1-1/2 inch outside the chuck bending sideways when entering against the edge of a grain line. And with dice you have to drill all six sides. Two of them will usually have grain
        • The holes are made in rows I decided on 5/8" for the center (1,3,5 and 6) and 5/16" from the edge for the 2, 3, 4, 5, and 1/4" from the edge for the 6 (a little more crowded). The first try I moved the fences (use a 90 degree assembly square, see picture) every measurement and this was really hard.- Came out skewed like a rhombus. I then figured I could not move the fence, but should use setup bars to offset. I used a centering bit to locate the Outside edge of the cube with the cube against the fence and locked it down, never to move again. Then I used a combination of setup bars (fortunately I have at two sets) on each side to get the offset for the rows.
        • Then there was the aforementioned problem of the grain causing the bit to walk or deflect a bit. I used the centering bit (see picture attachment) to put an indent at the location prior to drilling. This helped (but not 100%) to start the hole perfectly in the location even with grain. But I had to make two passes through the 2-stages of bar setup, one with the centering bit for marking, for all three offsets and one with the drill for all three offsets
        • Assembly order - its easy to make a mistake. You need to learn about dice. The first rule is that opposite sides always add to 7. So 1 & 6 go on opposite faces, then 3 and 4 opposite, and 5 and 2 opposite.
        • I marked the center holes first with 5/8" offsets (1/4
          bar + 3/8" bar) both sides for the 1, 3, 5 on three faces opposite a blank, i.e. three mutually orthagonal faces
        • Then I set up the 5/16 offsets ( one set had 5/16" bars the other set I had to use 3/16+1/8) on both sides. Mark the outer holes for 3, 5, then 4 and 2 opposite the 3 & 5 faces respectively.
        • The set up 1/4" offsets and mark the four outer holes for the 6. This will be the last unmarked face. Then add a 3/8" bar to one of the 1/4" bar to get the two row centered pips for the 6 and mark those two. To be consistent I pointed the rows of three at the 5 face.
        • Now replace the centering bit with the 1/4" drill and set the depth stop and repeat all the previous setups with the actual drill. A depth that shows a little sidewall, like 3/32 to 1/8" is good. Too deep and you'll intersect holes from the other faces!
        • The bevels were easy, I used a 1" belt sander with a vertical backup plate. It first I worried about a jig to hold it but I was lazy and just held a perfect 45° as best I could (the part is symmetrical so its not hard) and pressed uniform force for 3 seconds.
        Attached Files
        Last edited by LCHIEN; 12-17-2021, 01:47 PM.
        Loring in Katy, TX USA
        If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
        BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

        Comment

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