Another box

[RDavidP]

Yet another box. This time it is a humidor. I don't think it is too bad for my first humidor. Box is 1/2" oak and lined with 1/4" Spanish cedar. The finish is Minwax red oak stain after applying their pre-conditioner. Followed by three coats of brush on high gloss laquer.

[jking]

Is the cedar glued in, or is it a separate box that slides in? It looks nice.

[RDavidP]

Glued in. The butted joints were not quite tight enough to just go with friction. The top and bottom cedar panels could have been left unglued, but I just went ahead and glued them in too.

[LCHIEN]

nice box, the hasp looks a little out of proportion - too big in my opinion...

I would even venture to say (unless for security padlock reasons) a nice tight box like that needs no hasp, just put an indent or a small lift lip to raise the cover

[chopnhack]

Cuban time! Good job! The lid seems to fit nicely, I bet that was tricky. What stogs are going in there?

[RDavidP]

Cuban time! Good job! The lid seems to fit nicely, I bet that was tricky. What stogs are going in there?

Most cut the lid using a bandsaw, but since I don't have one I use my table saw. I don't quite cut all the way through, just leave a little bit of wood. I finish cutting using a thin fine tooth hand saw. I then get things to fit right one swipe of a Stanley Surform and then Nicholson #49 rasp at a time. Going to be filled with Perdomo Habanos.

I think the hasp may be a bit big too, but now that I have drilled holes for the screws, I may just leave it now.

[3thumbs]

Good job! Smoke 'em if you got 'em.

[cabinetman]

The box looks great...well done. Red Oak is one of my favorite species. I may be wrong, but in looking at the hasp, it seems that you mounted it in the open position. IOW, it may be the type that the hinged part would mount on the front of the lid, with the hinge barrel up, and the hasp lever covers the screws when it's lowered. Some of those have countersunk mounting holes which can be an indicator of how to install it.

.

[LCHIEN]

nice box, the hasp looks a little out of proportion - too big in my opinion...

I would even venture to say (unless for security padlock reasons) a nice tight box like that needs no hasp, just put an indent or a small lift lip to raise the cover

I don't mean to be overly critical or keep going on, but I think perhaps you have the hasp on partially upside down which contributes to it looking too big.

The part that's screwed into the upper lid, normally on hasps like that (with a latch or with a loop for a padlock) the screw plate is set so that the hinge is at the top, and when the hasp is closed the hasp goes down over the plate and over the smaller piece. Thus when closed the hasp covers the screws of both plates, limiting the amount of metal showing and also covering the screws when latched or locked so that the screws can't be removed to bypass the lock.

In looking around on the 'net I found some that clearly had the upper mounting plate up like you did but also some that had it under like this:




I know you won't change this one because the holes are already drilled, but next time...

[cabinetman]

The box looks great...well done. Red Oak is one of my favorite species. I may be wrong, but in looking at the hasp, it seems that you mounted it in the open position. IOW, it may be the type that the hinged part would mount on the front of the lid, with the hinge barrel up, and the hasp lever covers the screws when it's lowered. Some of those have countersunk mounting holes which can be an indicator of how to install it.

There are other "indicators" to how some hardware is configured. In this case, the location of the barrel can be an "indicator". The barrel on this box isn't pertinent to the opening ability of the hasp or the lid. On your next box, if directions are included with the hardware, experiment with the placement if it looks confusing. In the closed psition, the hasp would look like this:
.

http://www.tacktrunks.net/html/hardware_fittings.html

.

[RDavidP]

I took the hasp off to take a closer look at how it functions. Here are a few photos that show the range of motion of the hasp hinge.

First layed flat.


Hinge folded all the way it will go one way. I doubt this is how it installs as the latch is on the back.


Folded all the way the other direction.


How it probably should have been installed.


Also the screw holes are countersunk on the front, which you probably will see the best in the last picture.

[LCHIEN]

yup, clearly you did put it on the way they intended. I do know that other ones are intended to be folded under.
So, great project!

[cabinetman]

You didn't have much choice. When I lay out a project, and do my full size drawings, it's then I plan for all hardware. Sometimes a change in construction might befitting to accommodate specialty hardware.

.

[Daryl]

There has been a few times I have knocked the pin out and turned parts around if I thought it would look, or work, better.

[RDavidP]

Box and cabinet hardware should come with better instructions other than "Use a 5/64 drill bit to drill pilot holes for screws." I have all sorts of hinges in my shop from building my very first box. It took a while for me to figure out that I needed to cut an appropriate mortise for any hinge to work right.