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I became weary of dragging out my "quick-fab" workbench-mounted router uhhh. . . table (see this thread) each time I needed to perform a routing operation. That table worked well, but it was only supposed to be used "until I build a real one." So I finally did build a real one.
It's loosely modeled after the version in Bill Hylton's Woodworking with the Router, but with some modifications.
The following view shows how I attach the Incra Jig for safe keeping when I will be using the standard fence. I used t-nuts, threaded rod, and quick-release knobs. You get a glimpse of the DC piping to the right.
Below is a better view of the DC piping. I used a dust hood attached to the cabinet, two 22.5° elbows, a 2.5" x 4" wye, some flex hose, and small lengths of ASTM 3034 (Shed 35) sewer and drain to make the connections. The inside diameter of ASTM 3034 accomodates perfectly the outside diameter of standard 4" dust collection fittings. The flex hose allows me to disconnect the piping when I need to move the router table.
The following view shows the Incra Jig attached to the top. I have yet to use it, which was one of the motivations for getting this table built.
The following gives a view of the underside of the top, with my Milwaukee 5625 attached. The router was a Christmas present. I originally had planned on mounting a different router, but along came the 5625. Thankfully, it fit, although I had to remove the handles.
The frame supporting the top is made from lyptus, as are the two props that hold up the top. The top assembly is attached from behind by using standard strap hinges. Below is a better view of the particulars.
I used tool drawer liners partly for show, but also to keep the wrenches from rattling around during operaton. I also made a little tray to hold stuff. The cord is kept neatly in place by some cheap cable clamps.
As shown below, I used full extension slides for the drawers. I have decided that, except for any slides I have on hand, any drawers I make from now on are going to have full extension slides. The extra expense is offset by not having to root around in the nether regions of the drawer.
Drawer construction was simple rabbets, 1/2" utility ply sides, 1/4" MDF bottoms in grooves. I used a magnetic touch latch to hold the access door closed. The top two smaller drawers on the right are for 1/4" and 1/2" shank bits. The middle drawers hold fixtures, feather boards, push blocks, and other items. The bottom drawer is large enough to hold my Ryobi router bases, plus my Dremel and its accessories.
Below is an up-close of my 1/2" shank bit drawer. I used a label maker and clear label tape to identify what bit goes where. I wanted to be able to know at a glance which was, for example, the 1/8" roundover versus the 3/16" roundover bit. If I need to, I can "steal" the middle-right drawer to accomodate more bits.
Finally, here is a view of the shelving above the router table. If you squint real hard, you'll notice some t-slots routed into the bottom. I use those to store the standard fence. The t-bolts that attach the fence to the table simply slide in. I'll probably add something between the shelving and the table for additional storage. I could use that for feather boards, clamps, and the like instead of having it in one of the drawers.
Thanks for looking.
It's loosely modeled after the version in Bill Hylton's Woodworking with the Router, but with some modifications.
- The top is Rockler's discontinued model designed for the Oiginal Incra Jig. That's why the fence runs front-to-back instead of side-to-side. I received a steep discount for the table top, which I couldn't pass up. At some point, I'll figure out a modification to the fence so that I can use it side-to-side.
- Overall height is 37" (fits my working height), width of the cabinet is 26", and depth of cabinet is 17". I wanted enough overhang to accomodate any clamping, and to keep dust and chips from falling into the interior through the slots for the fence.
- The carcase is from one of the last remaining sheets of China birch ply I will ever buy. The drawer trim is cherry, and the drawer faces are run-of-the-mill birch ply (made in the U.S.A) that surprised me with chatoyance.
- I used Woodcraft's dual locking casters that I bought on sale. Come to think of it. . . everything that went into this table was bought on sale at some point.
- The power switch is from Rockler.
The following view shows how I attach the Incra Jig for safe keeping when I will be using the standard fence. I used t-nuts, threaded rod, and quick-release knobs. You get a glimpse of the DC piping to the right.
Below is a better view of the DC piping. I used a dust hood attached to the cabinet, two 22.5° elbows, a 2.5" x 4" wye, some flex hose, and small lengths of ASTM 3034 (Shed 35) sewer and drain to make the connections. The inside diameter of ASTM 3034 accomodates perfectly the outside diameter of standard 4" dust collection fittings. The flex hose allows me to disconnect the piping when I need to move the router table.
The following view shows the Incra Jig attached to the top. I have yet to use it, which was one of the motivations for getting this table built.
The following gives a view of the underside of the top, with my Milwaukee 5625 attached. The router was a Christmas present. I originally had planned on mounting a different router, but along came the 5625. Thankfully, it fit, although I had to remove the handles.
The frame supporting the top is made from lyptus, as are the two props that hold up the top. The top assembly is attached from behind by using standard strap hinges. Below is a better view of the particulars.
I used tool drawer liners partly for show, but also to keep the wrenches from rattling around during operaton. I also made a little tray to hold stuff. The cord is kept neatly in place by some cheap cable clamps.
As shown below, I used full extension slides for the drawers. I have decided that, except for any slides I have on hand, any drawers I make from now on are going to have full extension slides. The extra expense is offset by not having to root around in the nether regions of the drawer.
Drawer construction was simple rabbets, 1/2" utility ply sides, 1/4" MDF bottoms in grooves. I used a magnetic touch latch to hold the access door closed. The top two smaller drawers on the right are for 1/4" and 1/2" shank bits. The middle drawers hold fixtures, feather boards, push blocks, and other items. The bottom drawer is large enough to hold my Ryobi router bases, plus my Dremel and its accessories.
Below is an up-close of my 1/2" shank bit drawer. I used a label maker and clear label tape to identify what bit goes where. I wanted to be able to know at a glance which was, for example, the 1/8" roundover versus the 3/16" roundover bit. If I need to, I can "steal" the middle-right drawer to accomodate more bits.
Finally, here is a view of the shelving above the router table. If you squint real hard, you'll notice some t-slots routed into the bottom. I use those to store the standard fence. The t-bolts that attach the fence to the table simply slide in. I'll probably add something between the shelving and the table for additional storage. I could use that for feather boards, clamps, and the like instead of having it in one of the drawers.
Thanks for looking.
Loring in Katy, TX USA
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