How did you do the edge banding on the shelves? It looks like the ebony is inlayed into the edge in the photographs.
The edges were first ebonized and then chamfered (no edge banding). India ink is difficult to control because it's so watery; so I had to completely tape off the top (and bottom) of the top and shelves around the edges before applying the ink with a foam brush - carefully. Even so, a little of the ink made it onto the top and bottom of the panels (top and shelves). This was expected. But the final chamfer removed essentially all of it.
Of course, the slats were ebonized before assembly (mortise and tenon) so there was no problem there.
Thanks
Kofi
Last edited by partialresponse; 08-15-2008, 11:22 AM.
Reason: Update
Although this has been asked, you did use Speedball brand ink, and not some other brand.
Did you apply it using a brush or a rubber roller (brayer). After the ink dried, did you use any top coat?
I love the look and want to do this (different usage, ala Greene & Greene) so its something I'm really interested in.
BTW, I used to work with Ash almost exclusively, love that wood. PS- Great job.
Bruce
Yes, I tried both Speedball and Higgins black India ink. No contest at all. The former is much blacker than the latter. I applied it with a foam brush. The rest of the Ash is untreated. After the whole thing had been assembled on went four coats of Minwax water-based poly. I saw the use of India ink in a recent issue of Woodsmith. The ink raises the grain of the wood so I wet the wood and then sanded it slightly before applying the ink.
My eyeballs popped out; I can't find the right one. Anyway, A) how did you ebonize the edge and keep it from migrating onto the surface? B) can you still glue to 'ebonized' wood? or how did you attach the white ash to the ebonized ash on the front legs? OHHHH masking tape & camphering. Should have read first typed second. Still, how did you do B)?
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