Briefcase

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  • ryanps
    Forum Newbie
    • Dec 2006
    • 68
    • Maumee, Ohio
    • ShopFox W1677

    #16
    Originally posted by gjat
    ryan,
    I really, really, really like the laminated look on the interior, are you sure you want to cover it up? Would it be possible to just add leather to the interior bottom and then modify/utilize a leather insert from a planner that you can pick up at the office supply store?
    Thanks everyone for your replies. I went to Michael's and Jo-Ann Fabrics and neither place had an insert. I would say my best bet is the company that C-Man recommended. Their main page doesn't work though so I will Google them and see if I can come up with their contact info.

    Gjat, I also went to Office Max last night to see what their cases looked like. I also had the thought of "cannibalizing" the guts from one. Honestly, I really think I need an insert because stuff would just be rolling around all over the place. Once I come up with a solution I will let everyone know. Any other input would still be appreciated though.
    Thanks!

    Comment

    • JimD
      Veteran Member
      • Feb 2003
      • 4187
      • Lexington, SC.

      #17
      I saw C-man's apology and agree with the response. It is not hijacking when you stay on the same subject. I also agree that anytime I post a project and somebody has done something similar, they are welcome to post theirs. I learn more from others experiences when I have just done something similar.

      Both briefcases look great and maybe they will inspire me to finally make one. For me "briefcase" is more "computer case" these days, however. I carry a little Lonovo X60 laptop home each night and on trips. I carry more weight of computer with odds and ends than paper. Maybe I will do what I have been thinking about and build a computer case with some room for paper.

      What joints did you use or recommend? I am thinking of possibly using half-blind dovetails with the front and back in a rabbet or making the front and back like a floating panel in a groove. I have also toyed with finally trying through dovetails or possibly box joints for the corners.

      I am also thinking of Soss hinges but as much because they look neat as anything. I am also thinking of using hardwood plugs -the kind that stand proud of the surface - for feet rather than metal feet.

      I am very interested in C-mans handle. Did you buy hardware to attach? From the site you show? I like the looks of the leather handle too but the wood looks nice and might be cheaper to execute. I wonder a little about strength across grain, however. Does it need to be laminated? Thanks in advance for any thoughts.

      Jim

      Comment

      • gsmittle
        Veteran Member
        • Aug 2004
        • 2788
        • St. Louis, MO, USA.
        • BT 3100

        #18
        BOTH briefcases are georgeous! Ryan, is the maple edge-glued strips?

        Like many, I've been toying with making one, but I don't think my skills are up to it yet. Maybe someday, after I get done with LOML's 47 projects she has lined up for me.

        g.
        Smit

        "Be excellent to each other."
        Bill & Ted

        Comment

        • ryanps
          Forum Newbie
          • Dec 2006
          • 68
          • Maumee, Ohio
          • ShopFox W1677

          #19
          JimD, I bought the plans from Rockler. They called for miter joints reinforced with dovetail keys in the corners. I really couldn't figure out the dovetail key sled so I just opted to use three biscuits in each corner.

          For sure through dovetails or half-blind would work. Only thing is you have to rip the top of the case from the bottom. Therefore you would just want to be carefull and make sure the cut doesn't run through the middle of one of the dovetails.

          The case can hold a laptop but not much else (like a mouse). If you build one I would recommed making it a little deeper. I just weighed mine and it comes in at 5 lbs.

          I also asked C-Man how he made his handle in the other thread. Sure he will reply and for sure it would be cheaper than the leather handle (like I said it was $25 just for the handle).

          And to gsmittle -- the maple is just edged-glued strips (1/4" thick). I used that technique when I built my canoe. I have the tongue and groove router bits but didn't use them. Would have saved myself hours of sanding if I had.

          Comment

          • mater
            Veteran Member
            • Jan 2004
            • 4197
            • SC, USA.

            #20
            Both of the briefcases look great. Very nice work on both of them.
            Ken aka "mater"

            " People may doubt what you say but they will never doubt what you do "

            Ken's Den

            Comment

            • cabinetman
              Gone but not Forgotten RIP
              • Jun 2006
              • 15216
              • So. Florida
              • Delta

              #21
              Originally posted by ryanps
              JimD, I bought the plans from Rockler. They called for miter joints reinforced with dovetail keys in the corners. I really couldn't figure out the dovetail key sled so I just opted to use three biscuits in each corner.

              For sure through dovetails or half-blind would work. Only thing is you have to rip the top of the case from the bottom. Therefore you would just want to be carefull and make sure the cut doesn't run through the middle of one of the dovetails.

              I also asked C-Man how he made his handle in the other thread. Sure he will reply and for sure it would be cheaper than the leather handle (like I said it was $25 just for the handle).

              I tried the handle in different ways. The first time I cut the handle and tried turning the center section, but it was a PITA, and somewhat tricky dangerous with the offset. Can't do the ends that way (at least I didn't want to try). So, I wound up cutting the handle pattern stock square with the band saw. If you don't have a band saw, a scroll saw could be used, or even a jig saw. Then used rasps (flat, half rounds, and round) to shape the handle, and finally sandpaper. The initial stock has to be cut oversized (to account for the curves) and the actual detail of the handle and the curves be penciled so you have something to follow.

              As for the corner joinery, a well fitted miter, with keyed inserts (loose splines) works pretty good. The same stock can be used or contrasting stock.

              Edit: Try THIS LINK for parts.
              .

              .

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              Last edited by cabinetman; 05-22-2008, 04:06 AM.

              Comment

              • billwmeyer
                Veteran Member
                • Feb 2003
                • 1858
                • Weir, Ks, USA.
                • BT3000

                #22
                Beautiful! How heavy are they in comparison to a regular briefcase?

                Bill
                "I just dropped in to see what condition my condition was in."-Kenny Rogers

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