Tool Chests Revisited

[mater]

I like your whims and that one looks great.

[SARGE..g-47]

Very nice, Cab. If I could just build a piece of furniture that looked as good as the tool chest.

Regards...

[rnelson0]

Since these are for mechanics, or at least it sounds like it, what do you use as a finish to protect against auto fluids? Or do they just come back and buy another one?

[cabinetman]

Since these are for mechanics, or at least it sounds like it, what do you use as a finish to protect against auto fluids? Or do they just come back and buy another one?

Hopefully that's it. In reality, probably half of them don't use the tools they keep in them. There's been a real variety of intended uses. From drafting tools to jewelry.

As for finishes, I did two in just an oiled finish, and have used lacquer, oil based polyurethane, and water based polyurethane. I've had no calls for finish problems (yet).
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[footprintsinconc]

nice! too good looking to be in the shop.

if you were to build one on wheels, how would you lock the drawers from opening?

[JR]

Very nice, Cabinetman! And from what I can see, a pretty straightforward design. The integrated drawer pulls is an excellent idea.

Would you care to share some details on your drawer construction?

JR

[Alex Franke]

I also like the drawer pulls -- what did you use to make them?

Those are fantastic. Sure beats the garage sale dresser many of my tools are in.

Ha! I have exactly the same thing!

[cabinetman]

Very nice, Cabinetman! And from what I can see, a pretty straightforward design. The integrated drawer pulls is an excellent idea.

Would you care to share some details on your drawer construction?

JR

I also like the drawer pulls -- what did you use to make them?

Thanks for the compliment. The drawer fronts can be done in solid wood and a "finger pull" router bit can be used for the "integrated detail":
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Or, to have some continuity of grain for the drawer fronts, plywood can be used and an add on profile (available in random lengths, mostly in Red Oak) used on the top or bottom edge. To use these, the lip in the front and the spline can be cut off. The profile can then be glued directly and be "flush" to the front.
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I've had many PM's for details, and I will assemble a tutorial for this project in the "Project Related Discussions" when completed.

Edit: I forgot to address the drawer construction. The drawers are done with rabbeted sides to accept the fronts and backs. The sides and front are grooved to accept the bottom. The back is cut short to accept a 1/4" hardwood plywood bottom. The drawer front is a separate piece.
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[JR]

Edit: I forgot to address the drawer construction. The drawers are done with rabbeted sides to accept the fronts and backs. The sides and front are grooved to accept the bottom. The back is cut short to accept a 1/4" hardwood plywood bottom. The drawer front is a separate piece.

Ah yes, I'm familiar with this technique. My shop cabinets are built this way. Unfortunately my plywood drawer fronts don't stay put very well. I'm pretty sure it's operator error...

JR

[stormdog74]

Very nice - thanks for posting!