Tweet
About a week ago I posted this thread in the Testing Forum, with pictures
only but no drawings. It was suggested at that time that it should be in the
Finished Projects Forum, so here goes, this time with drawings, material
list and some construction comments.
The Cad program I use (Quick Cad), does not support formats the BT3
website accepts other than a couple that don’t seem to give enough detail.
However, I e-mailed the drawings to a few forum members in the WMF
format and one member was kind enough to convert them to the PDF
format which the BT3 website accepts. Thanks Jonathan(JSCOOK)
Not willing to pay HD $194Can for a herc-u-lift, I decide to make my own.
It took quite a while to design and build it, but I’m happy with it and it’s
working like a charm. I’m a frugal man(some say cheap), don’t pay myself
much, so labour was cheap.
Anyway here is what you’ll need:
• 4, 3” swivel casters, (Lee Valley $4.20, HD $8.48)
• 4, 3” butt hinges
• 1/4”-20 x 1-1/4” nuts and bolts
• 1/4” flat and lock washers
(I bought the above fasteners in box quantity, cheaper that way)
• 12, 1/4”-20 x 1/2”
• 2, 1/4”-20 x 3” bolts
• 1 screen door catch
• 3/4 ”MDF
You will need something to make and mount the little “striker” plate
mounted against the underside of the pedal beam, I cut it from
a piece of 1/8” aluminum I had in my scrap box.
Below are some construction comments:
Obviously various dimensions may change if you use:
• different casters
• a different screen door catch
• a different thickness of material for the 3/4” MDF
The swivel casters I used were 3-1/2 ” in total height. You also have to
consider the swivel radius of the casters.
Note that the little block, the screen door catch is mounted on, has a
slight slope to it. This tipped the lever of the screen door catch up a bit
making it easier to trip the catch when you want to release the pedal
beam. It also made for more secure “catching” of the little striker plate
when the pedal beam is down to lift the base.
I did not glue the 1” high pedal beam riser block to the beam the casters
are mounted on, but relied only on the two 3” bolts. This allows a bit of
sideways swing of the the pedal beam before tightening up the bolts to
make sure the slot in the pedal beam lines up with the screen door catch.
Don’t use casters which are too high or beam material which is too thick
or the beams will hit the saw base preventing the casters from pivoting
up high enough when the pedal beam is released.
Don’t make the “catch beam” too long or it will not be able to come up
high enough. I could have made mine shorter.
I hope I have covered everything. If there are any questions PM me and
include your e-mail address that way if the questions are similar I can
reply with a multiple addressee e-mail.
Good luck to anyone who would like to make the “Tim-Will-Lift”.
Tim
only but no drawings. It was suggested at that time that it should be in the
Finished Projects Forum, so here goes, this time with drawings, material
list and some construction comments.
The Cad program I use (Quick Cad), does not support formats the BT3
website accepts other than a couple that don’t seem to give enough detail.
However, I e-mailed the drawings to a few forum members in the WMF
format and one member was kind enough to convert them to the PDF
format which the BT3 website accepts. Thanks Jonathan(JSCOOK)
Not willing to pay HD $194Can for a herc-u-lift, I decide to make my own.
It took quite a while to design and build it, but I’m happy with it and it’s
working like a charm. I’m a frugal man(some say cheap), don’t pay myself
much, so labour was cheap.
Anyway here is what you’ll need:
• 4, 3” swivel casters, (Lee Valley $4.20, HD $8.48)
• 4, 3” butt hinges
• 1/4”-20 x 1-1/4” nuts and bolts
• 1/4” flat and lock washers
(I bought the above fasteners in box quantity, cheaper that way)
• 12, 1/4”-20 x 1/2”
• 2, 1/4”-20 x 3” bolts
• 1 screen door catch
• 3/4 ”MDF
You will need something to make and mount the little “striker” plate
mounted against the underside of the pedal beam, I cut it from
a piece of 1/8” aluminum I had in my scrap box.
Below are some construction comments:
Obviously various dimensions may change if you use:
• different casters
• a different screen door catch
• a different thickness of material for the 3/4” MDF
The swivel casters I used were 3-1/2 ” in total height. You also have to
consider the swivel radius of the casters.
Note that the little block, the screen door catch is mounted on, has a
slight slope to it. This tipped the lever of the screen door catch up a bit
making it easier to trip the catch when you want to release the pedal
beam. It also made for more secure “catching” of the little striker plate
when the pedal beam is down to lift the base.
I did not glue the 1” high pedal beam riser block to the beam the casters
are mounted on, but relied only on the two 3” bolts. This allows a bit of
sideways swing of the the pedal beam before tightening up the bolts to
make sure the slot in the pedal beam lines up with the screen door catch.
Don’t use casters which are too high or beam material which is too thick
or the beams will hit the saw base preventing the casters from pivoting
up high enough when the pedal beam is released.
Don’t make the “catch beam” too long or it will not be able to come up
high enough. I could have made mine shorter.
I hope I have covered everything. If there are any questions PM me and
include your e-mail address that way if the questions are similar I can
reply with a multiple addressee e-mail.
Good luck to anyone who would like to make the “Tim-Will-Lift”.
Tim
Attached Files
Comment