Looking for temporary use of a zero clearance throat plate for 3D modeling

[d_meister]

The trouble with 3D printed structures are that they are usually not made with a solid infill. There is usually an internal grid structure with voids inside the printed object. The result is that machining or fastening is problematic. A self-tapping screw is likely to hit more air than plastic. Threaded holes can be designed in, but a common approach is to set brass threaded inserts into the plastic with a soldering pencil. Parts can be printed with 100% infill, but is rarely done with large pieces because the print would take a very long time, possibly in the area of days. I've had regular large prints with 15% infill take over 10 hours and run overnight.
I don't mean to argue for or against an approach, just pointing out that 3D print engineering and design is different than what we're used to in the woodworking world. But, like woodworking, the fun is in creative problem-solving. One of my favorite 3D printing YouTube channels is CNC Kitchen. It's by a young German engineer that runs real tests on just about everything 3D printing related. As an Engineer, Loring, I think you'd really enjoy it. Here's a video on fastening with designed-in threads, machining, and inserts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iR6OBlSzp7I

[LCHIEN]

One potential problem with spring roll pins is that the tension to compress them may crack the plastic part when you drive it in... you can compensate for this by measuring the roll pins and making the hole oversized (greater than 1/8" but less than the uncompressed OD so as to reduce the compression forces. There's probably some drawings for the uncompressed size of a roll pin or you can experiment empirically. Ah, here, found some data.



OK, I know very little about 3-D printing, so take my suggestions with a grain of salt and ignore anything that doesn't apply for 3-D printing. You're doing a great job so far.

Loring

[jlmeredith]

LCHIEN and d_meister - all of these suggestions are very helpful! Thank you! I am unfortunately tied up with delivery of a project in my day job right now (software engineer) but as soon as I get this out the door I will be circling back.

[LCHIEN]

yeah, yeah, I know that story... make money by day so you can play at night.

Retired, I just spend money and critique other people day and night.

[mpc]

Another idea: in the pic Loring used in post #43 what if the ribs, running the length of the insert, were made into lap joints? That would provide more glue surface if glue were used... or one could drill vertically through the lap joint for a small screw, a pin, etc.

Another idea: instead of a dovetail on the upper surface, make that a butt joint or a small lap joint. Put dovetails in the long ribs.

mpc

[jlmeredith]

Excellent recommendations! Thank you! I think my current approach will be to create a mortise and tenon joint that a couple of small M3 screws can be tightened up into using some heat press inserts. Low cost and easy. If a person wanted to just insert the parts and glue, that would work just as well. My goal is to ensure that the top surface with use does not move from being flat.

[LCHIEN]

Or make the dovetail horizontal instead of vertical to ensure best alignment vertically.

[jlmeredith]

I should have some updates on this in the next day or so. I have tried a couple of options, including the pins that LCHIEN mentioned. I think I should be able to get away with just creating the joint using tight fit tenon joints that are just made of plastic. I will possibly provide the option to use a small set screw from the bottom that will lock the pieces together. The pins worked as well, but if I can make it work without them, I would like the design to be print and done rather than having hardware. I will post photos once I have tested things a bit more!

[LCHIEN]

The pins worked as well, but if I can make it work without them, I would like the design to be print and done rather than having hardware. I will post photos once I have tested things a bit more!

I can understand that!

[jlmeredith]

Quick update so others do not think this is dead.

I have had some other moonlighting projects that have had priority, on of which is about to require the saw.

I use my track saw a lot, but I have a project coming up that I need to be able to cut things on the Ryobi (Lots of angular cross cuts).

But I needed to solve the mobility issues first. A$30 later I have a robust ability to drop the table saw anywhere and then store when not needed.

Need to reinstall rails. I may design some 3D printed storage spaces under the rails. Some simple joint and corner profiles with hardboard could provide good storage for things like table fence, wrenches, etc.

[d_meister]

Great solution, looking good. Good deal on the wheels, too. Those things have been very expensive whenever I've seen them. The beauty of those casters is that they allow for easy "parallel parking".
I haven't gone further with trying to print the Zero plate sections. After other warping issues on different larger prints, I've concluded that an enclosure will be necessary for my printers.

[jlmeredith]

Here is a link to the casters I picked up on Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QRH8VS2