The main blade resident in my BT3100 for the last few years has been the thin kerf WWII. I use a TK Freud ripper regularly and periodically use specialty blades such as square tooth, 80T finish cut or dados. Just recently while "rescuing" some quality maple ply from an old entertainment center (yeah that will teach me) I forgot to take the WWII out and ended up meeting a bunch of finish nails. The blade ate through them but left a bunch of teeth less than happy. I haven't done a close inspection yet but with a quick look I guess at least half may have bit the dust (or the nail).
Fixing many teeth may cost nearly the price of a new blade. As it happens I do also own a full kerf WWII (rarely used) and a Tenryu Gold Medal with a .111 kerf. So am now wondering wether to lay out for a new TK WWII or switch out to the full kerf or use the GM.
Have any of you been using full kerf WWII or similar in your 3/4horse BTs and how have you found it working?
I am sure they will work but with a slower feed rate I wonder about increased burn in the wood and bogging down or worse burning out the motor.
Love to hear your experiences.
Jon
Fixing many teeth may cost nearly the price of a new blade. As it happens I do also own a full kerf WWII (rarely used) and a Tenryu Gold Medal with a .111 kerf. So am now wondering wether to lay out for a new TK WWII or switch out to the full kerf or use the GM.
Have any of you been using full kerf WWII or similar in your 3/4horse BTs and how have you found it working?
I am sure they will work but with a slower feed rate I wonder about increased burn in the wood and bogging down or worse burning out the motor.
Love to hear your experiences.
Jon
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