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Beveled cuts on BT

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  • Beveled cuts on BT

    I use a crosscut sled to make beveled cuts but when the piece is say 3 inches tall, the sled comes off and make the cut with the fence on the right side of the blade. Now could someone shed some insight into why the fence should be moved to the left off the blade for angled cuts? What's the best and safest method to make these cuts when the piece is too tall for the blade to clear the piece while using a sled. Thanks.

  • #2
    I'm assuming that the piece is short enough to be used with the fence. I still would keep the fence on the right side of the blade. You simply flip the piece upside down and left to right.


    • #3
      Now could someone shed some insight into why the fence should be moved to the left off the blade for angled cuts?
      When the fence is on the right side of a beveled cut on the BT3x00, the piece is totally trapped on the right side, bottom, and the left side by the spinning blade. Anything less than absolute precision can and will send it flying back. If the back side of the blade catches, it will lift the trapped wood, distort, warp and possibly break the blade and possibly send things other than wood flying. There is a good potential for a shaft break and even a warped fence in addition to the kickback of the wood.

      IN normal kickbacks on vertical cuts, Wood trapped between the fence and vertical blade has an outlet upwards and backwards towards the operator, but in a trapezoid shape of a right tilting blade and the fence - far more dangerous potential is garnered.
      Hank Lee

      Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!


      • #4
        A lot people don't realize that table saws are available in left tilt and right tilt blades. There is a lot of discussion which is better, and probably equal numbers on each side of the battle. I like to operate my table saw with the rip fence on the right of the blade, I'm more comfortable with my hands there. I absolutely hate using the rip fence on the left side of the blade. Exactly what leehljp says about the blade trapping wood against the fence happens, very quickly. Right tilt blade was what I disliked most about the BT3, and was probably the reason that it was designed with a sliding miter table. Right tilt blade was the deciding factor for me to get rid of my Sears BT saw for a left tilt saw. I never ever put myself in a situation where the blade is tilted toward the fence.


        • #5
          One problem for me with having the fence on the left side on the BT is the lack of support. I used to take the sled out, move the router "table" over to the left side for support, then move the fence over. Since I don't use my sled anymore, I created a supporting table on the left side.


          • #6
            As Capncarl stated quite well, you want to avoid any kind of cramping or trapping of the stock when you do any kind of cross-cut, bevel or otherwise. I keep my rip fence on the right side, and as others have stated, I'm just more comfortable with it there.

            I really don't like using the table saw for cross cuts, unless the piece is relatively short, but not too short (24- to 8-inches) and then if I have to use the fence as a measured-cut device, I place a stop block at the leading edge of the fence (located to the right of the blade) so that once cleared, the stock is not trapped between the blade and the fence.

            As stated, I prefer to NOT use the table saw for cross cuts: I have of course, but it's more challenging than my RAS or, if the stock width is 6-inches or less, my miter saw. A SCMS (sliding compound miter saw) would be ideal, but I don't own one, and my old RAS still serves me well)

            Think it Through Before You Do!