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Shim Replacement : How To Guide

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  • Shim Replacement : How To Guide

    Since it seems time for my semi-annual maintenance and due to several posts asking how to lately I deciced to take pictures during mine. Keep in mind this is specifically for the BT3000 only.

    Step 1: double un-plug saw at outlet and onboard outlet. Remove throat plate, Sharkguard, Big dog clamp, and splitter (or the stock POS []). Remove blade and spacers.

    Step 2: remove left side cover and dust shroud.

    Step 3: remove the four screws as marked with the arrows in the following pic

    Step 4: remove the other two screws and pull the guide holder off.

    You should now be able to swing the motor assembly back slightly from the locker bracket.

    Step 5: Remove rear shims

    Note the shape of the rear shims above. Also note that the holes are offset and the holes go towards the arbor and the tabs hang over the motor's ears.

    Step 8: Clean all parts with a rag. If you find real stuborn pitch build up feel free to use paint thinner or the like.

    Next picture shows the guide holder, and all four shims. Note the orientation of the front shims.

    At this point is may be helpfull to remove the right side cover to gain access to the motor. It may also be a great time to inspect and lube the elevation shaft and bevel gears along with the bevel mechanism.

    Step 9: Carefully set the rear shims in place and swing the motor assembly up against the locker bracket.

    Step 10: Place the two front shims onto the guide holder and place the guide holder in place. It may help to hold the shims in place with small pieces of tape on the tabs (just remember to remove the tape before final tightening.)

    Step 11: Start the four long screws removed in step 3 but only enough to start the guide holder onto the arbor bearing. Tighten evenly until the other two smaller screws will reach the plate behind the bearing. (now would be a good time to remove any tape that you used to keep the shims in place!)

    Step 12: Evenly tighten the two bearing retaing screws which should pull the bearing to full seat into the guide holder.

    Step 13: Evenly tighten up the four screws.

    Step 14: Check function of elevation and bevel wheel. It should work smoothly up and down. Lube the shim mating surfaces. I use the pictured spray lube that dries, others have used candle wax.

    Step 15: If everything works fine you are done. If not take it back apart and start over. You may have to adjust your shim set screws. This article has instructions for this; it may also be valuable reading since it covers this topic also. Once you are satisfied that everything works as it should replace the dust shroud and side cover(s). Plug saw back in and enjoy.

    If you are replacing your shims due to the tabs breaking I strongly recommend that you read Norm in Fujino's Shim Supports page and consider making and installing somke on your saw. I'm on my third set of shims and since making shim supports have not had any more shim problems. Norm in Fujino is one of this site's Charter members. He's been very busy with his work last I heard, hopefully he's still doing well.
    Last edited by Sam Conder; 01-30-2007, 10:31 PM.
    Donate to my Tour de Cure

    marK in WA and Ryobi Fanatic Association State President

    Head servant of the forum

  • #2
    That is very well written and with the pictures should make it easier for all. On My Part, Thanks, Bill


    • #3
      Thanks Mark, I have bookmarked this for future reference. Thanks for the pictures and the tutorial.
      No good deed goes unpunished


      • #4
        Good job Mark! Very well written!
        Monte (another darksider)
        Reporting Live from somewhere near Kalamazoo


        • #5
          Great Job.

          SAM - this needs to be in the "Articles" section - please!
          Downunder ... 1" = 25.4mm


          • #6
            Absolutely, Rod. Excellent stuff, Mark.


            • #7
              quote:Originally posted by RodKirby

              Great Job.

              SAM - this needs to be in the "Articles" section - please!
              Thanks for all the kind words guys! My thought was that hopefully Sam will add this to the Articles section. I first posted it here so that hopefully the two members who are having problems currently will have a better guide to go by.
              Donate to my Tour de Cure

              marK in WA and Ryobi Fanatic Association State President

              Head servant of the forum


              • #8
                I'm still waiting for my new shims. So this article will really help me.I like the pictures, like they say, pictures are more thasn a thousand words. I am going to book mark this.
                Henry R. Ulrich Jr.


                • #9
                  Very well done, Mark.
                  If we keep this up, we'll have a complete Maintanence and Repair Manual for our Saws. We have several Articles available already.
                  Again, nice job.

                  Stop thinking why you can't and Start thinking how you CAN!
                  Remember, SUCCESS comes in CANS!


                  • #10
                    That was a great job Mark and your posting is now in my 3 ring. Articles such as this are greatly appreciated.



                    • #11
                      Donate to my Tour de Cure

                      marK in WA and Ryobi Fanatic Association State President

                      Head servant of the forum


                      • #12

                        That was an excellent tutoral but I suggest that anyone replacing the BT3000 shims convert to the BT3100 system. It only costs less than $20.00 and is no more work than replacing the original shims that have a habit of failing.



                        • #13

                          Great writeup. If anyone does decide to do the shim upgrade to the BT3100 style shims, I have written a set of instructions and can send them out as needed.

                          The chief cause of failure in this life is giving up what you want most for what you want at the moment.


                          • #14
                            Mrs. Wallnut a.k.a (the head nut).


                            • #15
                              I've used these instructions to replace my shims.

                              They are EXCELLENT and I would not change a thing!

                              I still don't see them in the ARTICLES section, though.

                              Drywall screws are not wood screws