Fix it - or part it out

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  • envisionelec
    Handtools only
    • Jan 2015
    • 3
    • Dayton, OH
    • BT3000

    Fix it - or part it out

    I have a well-used BT3000 that seems to be a Frankenstein. It is missing the front and rear rail clamps, miter fence stop tab, rip fence handle and the rip fence itself doesn't function correctly. Additionally, half of the cast housing below the blade is missing so sawdust falls straight down into a plastic tub - convenient if that's your thing. It works for me but I struggle with the mechanics of the saw.

    The sliding parts don't slide well and I don't know if they're missing any plastic. I have downloaded the manual, but don't want to spend a bunch of time finding replacement parts if it's not worth saving.

    I'm a hobbyist woodworker - and rarely at that. I want to build some storage cabinets for my garage but feel as though I'll be 75% to a new saw in repair parts.

    If it were you - would you purchase a new saw or would you buy all the replacement parts? If a replacement - what would you recommend? I'm only slightly cost conscious, so don't recommend the cheapest unless it's really a good value.
  • Black wallnut
    cycling to health
    • Jan 2003
    • 4715
    • Ellensburg, Wa, USA.
    • BT3k 1999

    #2
    Part out. It sounds like too much is wrong with what you have. Perhaps a standard contractor style saw would fit your needs better.
    Donate to my Tour de Cure


    marK in WA and Ryobi Fanatic Association State President ©

    Head servant of the forum

    ©

    Comment

    • JoeyGee
      Veteran Member
      • Nov 2005
      • 1509
      • Sylvania, OH, USA.
      • BT3100-1

      #3
      Definitely part out. You can sell the working parts for a fair price.

      Myself, I seriously considering parting out my 3100 and going with the Ridgid 4512.
      Joe

      Comment

      • poolhound
        Veteran Member
        • Mar 2006
        • 3195
        • Phoenix, AZ
        • BT3100

        #4
        I does sounds like getting the parts for that saw and fixing it up would be a thankless task. I guess a new table saw is in your future. You could keep your eye out for another BT3000 or 3100 in better shape and then keep your current one for spares.

        I do see a couple of old 3000 on the Dayton CL but they are asking $200 and $300 respectively which is way too much. They do come up occasionally around the $100 and then its worthwhile.

        If I had to spend $300 on a old used saw I think I would go the whole hog and splash out for a shiny new saw
        Jon

        Phoenix AZ - It's a dry heat
        ________________________________

        We all make mistakes and I should know I've made enough of them
        techzibits.com

        Comment

        • LCHIEN
          Internet Fact Checker
          • Dec 2002
          • 20920
          • Katy, TX, USA.
          • BT3000 vintage 1999

          #5
          not worth fixing. How'd it get so bad?

          Buy a used one (BT3100) in good condition if you liked the saw, get something else if you didn't. Be cheaper than the effort of finding and buying all the parts. You might even have some spare parts from the old... although it doen't really sound like it, ha.

          Good luck.
          Loring in Katy, TX USA
          If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
          BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

          Comment

          • envisionelec
            Handtools only
            • Jan 2015
            • 3
            • Dayton, OH
            • BT3000

            #6
            I got the saw for free from my old neighbor so I know nothing about its history. I once had a really nice JET cast iron top but sold it due to financial difficulties many years ago.

            Thank you for your advice!

            Comment

            • envisionelec
              Handtools only
              • Jan 2015
              • 3
              • Dayton, OH
              • BT3000

              #7
              Originally posted by I saw that!
              Does anyone ever disassemble their saws to that degree for parting them out, or would y'all just be looking to sell an entire arbor assembly instead?

              I see complete assemblies on eBay occasionally, most often as part of the whole motor assembly w/motor bracket, sometimes still installed in the locker bracket, sometimes even with belts installed. Some of those pulleys up for sale have had nicks and dings in them -- no thank you, that's what's wrong with my old one.
              When I say "part out" I mean either throw it away or tear it down into the most valuable and working remaining parts. Some days, I just throw things out because nothing is worth saving. Other days, I will take an afternoon and properly deconstruct it.

              How much are we talking?

              Comment

              • worknhard
                Forum Newbie
                • Jan 2011
                • 30
                • Denver, CO
                • BT3000, Shopsmith 510, Luna combo machine

                #8
                The parts that you say are missing, or perhaps need replacing do not amount to a big expense... A set of front and rear rail clamps can be had on ebay for $10-$15. New replacement rip fence handles sell for about $7... or you can make your own using a ˝” bolt. The miter bar quick stop tab assy is probably the most expensive item at about $15, however, you can easily get by without it. If the sliding miter table does not slide well it may be the plastic slides are broke (very common). The fact that the rip fence doesn't function correctly could be that it is just out of adjustment...or perhaps the plastic roller holder is broken… cost is about $4. Closely look at the front block of the rip fence for cracks. If it is cracked you’ll need another rip fence... used on ebay go for $50-75.

                If the motor seems to run fine and you are ok with saw dust dropping down below the saw, and you don’t plan on using it much, I’d strongly consider repairing it. I don’t see much more than $30-$40 to get it set up. Of course that assumes none of the major components are damaged. On the other hand, if you are someone who wants to pursue a hobby of woodworking, I’d look for another saw.

                Comment

                • mpc
                  Senior Member
                  • Feb 2005
                  • 979
                  • Cypress, CA, USA.
                  • BT3000 orig 13amp model

                  #9
                  Depending on the style of cabinets you want to make for your garage - utilitarian or more fancy/furniture grade - you may find a table saw isn't needed. A decent circular saw with a good blade and a sawboard is often easier when cutting plywood sheets to size. A router and a clamped-on straight board for a fence can make dado slots and rabbet the edges just fine. For utility cabinets, that's really all you need - and a drill I guess.

                  For face frame cabinets, or something other than slab doors, a table saw will be more useful.

                  As to your current BT saw - a few questions on its general health besides the missing parts issue you described:
                  * the blade raise/lower mechanism: is it fairly easy to operate and smooth? The threaded rod that adjusts the blade height passes through a threaded aluminum structure to do it's job; it's easy to strip the aluminum threads if somebody manhandles the crank knob on a saw that needs cleaning/lubrication/TLC.

                  * Move the lever behind the crank wheel all the way to the left - i.e. switch to the blade tilt mode. Crank the blade to a 45 degree angle. It should move easily and with no obvious mechanical "steps."

                  * if the blade raises/lowers fairly easily, raise it almost all the way. Grab the top of the blade and wiggle it side-to-side and try twisting it left-right. There should be almost no movement whatsoever... movement means either worn parts or mis-adjusted shims.

                  * Now, with the blade still raised, quickly spin it by and and watch the blade run-out. If the blade doesn't spin in a flat plane, either the arbor is bent or the blade is bent. Slowly rotate the blade by hand watching for where the deviation is largest. Mark the blade at that point AND mark the arbor. Loosen the blade mounting nut and spin the blade 90 degrees relative to the mark you just put on the arbor. Now repeat the run-out test. Find the location of the largest run-out deviation again. Does it line up with the mark on the blade? If yes, the blade is bent. If not, does the largest deviation line up with the line you put on the arbor? If yes... bad news, arbor is bent or there is some issue with the support structure. If the largest deviation doesn't line up with either of your marks then something is making the blade clamp mechanism grab the blade cockeyed. Do you have the two spacer rings on the arbor? And two blade stabilizers (big washers) as well?

                  Hard-to-raise/lower problems come from lack of lubrication, jammed/damaged/mis-adjusted shims, and sometimes a blade guard that's not installed correctly so it rubs against the back of the tabletop opening. The shims are thin metal pieces between the main aluminum motor+blade+arbor assembly and the aluminum part hanging from the tabletop. There are small holes in the aluminum motor mounting bracket assembly to access itty-bitty allen head inserts that are supposed to just take up the mechanical clearances between the aluminum parts and the shims. Too loose on these allen head inserts = blade moves side-to-side or twists. Too tight = blade height adjustment is too tight and/or jammed if really too tight.

                  In my mind, those are the main tests to know if the "heart" or "bones" of your saw are healthy. If they have problems it is going to take some work, and possibly money, to restore the saw to its original glory. If that stuff is healthy, and the motor runs properly, then replacing the missing items you noted should result in a solid saw again. It's up to you to do the legwork to find the price of the missing parts and decide if you'd rather chance that + your time to repair the saw or just buy some other saw.

                  Another option: every so often a BT3 comes up for sale because the motor burned out; replacement motors are expensive. So, if you have a solid motor, it could be worth it to swap it into one of these otherwise healthy saws. There were several different motors used during the BT3000/BT3100/Sears versions production run and each requires slightly different aluminum parts supporting the motor so you have to be careful what you buy.

                  mpc

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