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Design my saw!
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Design my saw!
47factory original27.66%13BT3100 scheme12.77%6Plasti Dip4.26%2hammered31.91%15cracked/wrinkled0.00%0stone0.00%0other texture (specify)4.26%2wood grain or other (contact paper/appliqué; specify)0.00%0stencil (specify design)0.00%0space scene (simple)6.38%3sunburst0.00%0tie dye8.51%4checkered flag/chessboard0.00%0racing stripes2.13%1flames (may be beyond my skill set)2.13%1Last edited by I saw that!; 04-26-2015, 03:45 AM.Tags: None -
Well if you're intent on restoring your saw/repainting it, I'd probably stick with either the original paint scheme or else get it to match your other stationary tools.... but that's just me or course.
Regarding paint, I personally would want to stay away from most textures, as I think dust would cling more to any texture.Think it Through Before You Do!Comment
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While I'm normally a traditionalist, I voted for the hammered finish. I use the Rustoleum hammered gray enamal on most metal and some wood in my shop and it is a really tough finish and does a great job protecting metal in the summer high humidity we get here.Chr's
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An ethical man knows the right thing to do.
A moral man does it.Comment
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About the only scenarios requiring removal of the label would be if sandblasting and/or powder coating the panels which in fact seems a reasonable approach. IIRC the panels should fit in a cast off conventional size kitchen oven and a powdercoat finish is one of the most durable and quick turn-around options. If I were going to spray a finish I'd just mask and match to the OEM color. I might be tempted though to add a trace of silicone oil to the paint in order to give a hammered texture which tends to hide wear and battle scars considerably better than a smooth finish.Comment
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That you even included tie-die says that would fit you.Donate to my Tour de Cure
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I vote for Candy Apple Red. (Actually I did not vote -- Candy Apple Red was mysteriously left off the choices ...)
But the hammered paint option is cool. I painted a toolbox in hammered metallic green. The paint covers blemishes pretty well, so surface prep is easier, no need to fuss over trying to make it pristine.LeeComment
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I care less about the paint and more about the function. (a friend of mine who rebuilds stuff, mostly uses machine grey as it is what he has around, I use spray paint from a damaged goods store where I have gotten deals on cans)
But I saw the list and had to laugh after talking to a friend. I hope racing stripes didn't mean white with a brown streak.She couldn't tell the difference between the escape pod, and the bathroom. We had to go back for her.........................Twice.Comment
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Originally posted by I saw that!I know/think you were being facetious, but Candy Apple Red can probably be done with Plasti Dip. It's available in red, clear and these enhancers. They even have kits for creating desired colors.
Also, I've read about people successfully using metal flake additives with Plasti Dip.
A person could probably achieve a reasonable CA Red with the above ingredients.
I'm surprised nobody has mentioned carbon fiber, which seems popular on just about everything these days.
So, I again urge you to consider Candy Apple Red ...LeeComment
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I would have to go with a single color finish. From a rattle can, I have found the Rustoleum Hammered finishes to be very durable.
When I restored my 8 ' jointer I sprayed it with Rust Scat Battleship Grey. It has held up better than any rattle can paint I have ever used.
The web sit lists 15 dealer locations in the Houston Area.
As to the poll, I checked other, leaning toward a smooth high gloss finish in your choice of color.Last edited by Pappy; 03-05-2015, 03:05 PM.Don, aka Pappy,
Wise men talk because they have something to say,
Fools because they have to say something.
PlatoComment
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