Help With WWII Blade Choice

[MBG]

I recently picked up a 21829. I have a full kerf WWII blade. Should I sell or try to swap it for a TK?

Thanks,

Mike

[gsmittle]

I know a TK is recommended. I imagine you could use a full kerf if you don't do too heavy a cut.

g.

[Bill in Buena Park]

I think long term you'll get more satisfaction out of the saw going to TK. Easier on the saw, your cuts, and less material waste.

[MBG]

Well after looking at WWII new blade prices I will probably stick with the std kerf for a while.


Mike

[pelligrini]

The riving knife won't be as effective, due to it being thicknessed for a TK blade. What version of the WWII do you have? I've got a 30T and a 40T both TK. (and both need to be sharpened). I tend to use the 30T more often.

[Stytooner]

However, I think a little different. A thin kerf riving knife works great with standard kerf blades. I only use a thin kerf knife on both my saws. What is more critical to safety is the alignment of the knife and fence to the blade. I have seen guys recommend that the fence be towed out a hair. Include me there. I have seen guys recommend that the riving knife be positioned even with the fence side of the teeth. I'm not against that, but then measurement accuracy comes into play. Everyone measures to a different accuracy unless it's an Engineer measuring to a certain degree.
Typical woodworkers measure nowhere near the second place (0.01")
Getting close is really all that is needed.

I would not buy a different blade until I was certain that I had issues with that one. WWII blades are not cheap and should be considered an investment. You may not even need to make that investment.

[LCHIEN]

If I was buying one and had to chose between TK and Std K I would get the thin kerf.
OTOH, if you already have a Std Kerf blade and you're not unhappy with it, I would keep on using it.

[cabinetman]

With some saws a TK works better as it's easier on the motor. With either, you may try running the blade higher when doing cuts. The lesser angle permits less blade contact, and better cooling. The cutting angle is more vertical, and provides more down force in the cut. I don't use any toe out on the fence.

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[Knottscott]

The TK is easier to spin, but since the FK is already on hand, I'd just keep it, and would add a 24T TK ripper for heavier rip cuts.

[MBG]

Thanks for the suggestions. I will try it out and look through my blades - I think I have one or two Freud TK 24T blades.

Mike

[Knottscott]

You could always sell your WWII FK, and pick up a very good TK blade for a lot less than a WWII.

A good 60T blade like the Infinity 010-060 Hi-ATB, Freud LU88R010, Irwin Marples 1807369 will cut cleaner than the WWII, and will still rip efficiently in material up to ~ 5/4". Use your 24T for thicker stuff.

Here's a link to my blog on good bargain blades.

[MBG]

You could always sell your WWII FK, and pick up a very good TK blade for a lot less than a WWII.

A good 60T blade like the Infinity 010-060 Hi-ATB, Freud LU88R010, Irwin Marples 1807369 will cut cleaner than the WWII, and will still rip efficiently in material up to ~ 5/4". Use your 24T for thicker stuff.

Here's a link to my blog on good bargain blades.

Wow - you be the blade expert!

Thanks. This made me run out to the garage and look at my 10" blades (all never used). I might just be able to sell the Woodworker II and the one Freud FK below. Can you give your opinion on these blades:

1) Diable D1040A 40T GP TK
2) Freud F410 40T ATB FK
3) Tenryu Rapid Cut RS25548 40T TK

Thanks

[Knottscott]

The Freud Diablo is an excellent bang for the buck, and should work great for general use on your new saw.

The Tenryu Rapid Cut is one of their value lines (made in China). I thought the Tenryu RS25548 was a full kerf 48T blade....they do make an RS25540 40T that's got a odd mid-kerf of 0.111", but they also offer some ultra thin kerf blades in the range of 0.079". They made some changes to their lineup within the last year or so, so it gets a little confusing. I've used the RS25540 (ATAF) and RS25550 (50T ATB/R), and thought both were very good at their price points....not in the league of their Gold Medal GM25540 though (made in Japan), which is similar to the WWII.

The Freud F410 is similar to the WWII (standard ATB grind) ....IIRC, it preceeded the current P410 Fusion Hi-ATB grind. Excellent general purpose blade.

[pelligrini]

The TK is easier to spin, but since the FK is already on hand, I'd just keep it, and would add a 24T TK ripper for heavier rip cuts.

Have you tried the Forrest 20T ATB/Raker?

When MBG mentioned the prices I was checking them out on Woodcraft and remembered I had some gift cards. This is on the truck for delivery today.

[cabinetman]

Have you tried the Forrest 20T ATB/Raker?

When MBG mentioned the prices I was checking them out on Woodcraft and remembered I had some gift cards. This is on the truck for delivery today.

Got plans for some heavy stuff I see.

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