using Brasso on table saw top

[fishtails]

I recently bought an old bt3000, circa 93-94. I've torn it down to give it a good cleaning and lube, work on the shims etc. On the main table, the original sticker had been left on the table and when I pulled it off to clean noticed it had it's original shiny lustre where the sticker had protected it from oxidation. So I was thinking about a way to bring back the the rest of the table to it's original shine since I have it all torn down. The table is flat and clean. Has anyone done this before and if so how did you do it? Or am I just wasting my time and should be thankful the table is flat. I bought a bottle of Brasso, but I figured I would ask here first. Thanks.

Mark

[cwsmith]

Mark,

I took quick notice of your "Brasso" and immediately had to read your post. I've always been a "Brasso" fan, though I use it sparingly. My 8 oz rectangular can probably dates from the late 70's if not earlier... price marked on the can is $3.07.

While I've used it to polish a lot of stuff, mostly small though. It's a good plastic polish as well as brass, copper, aluminum, stainless, and even some steels.

For the BT? Well, much will depend on how much other coatings are still left on the surface. My BT3100 is powder-coated silver paint (I believe), and I understand that the original BT3000 was anodized. To some extent, Brasso by itself would be a hard and long process of getting whatever origninal surface protectorant removed; and it so doing would present more oxidation challenges. Brasso, by its self, is more of a polish after whatever surface is removed with a harsher abrasive like emery or find sandpape, steel wool, etc. If you don't get all the old finish, and corrosion off, the top will be quite spotty.

However, once you are down to the actual aluminum, I think I would use a fine automotive-finish, wet-dry emery (800 to 1000 grit wet), and then try the Brasso, IF you want that mirror finish. Then you are going to have to coat the surface with wax or some other antioxidant.

Problem is that once you remove all the old finish, the top can be a constant maintainance challenge against corrosion, with any protectorant.

I don't see where the Brasso will hurt anything, as I've used it even on my aluminum Ryobi bandsaw table, after a good cleaning and emery paper. But with the BT-3, that is a much larger project.

I hope this helps,

CWS

[LCHIEN]

the old BT3000 has anodized aluminum table tops as opposed to the later BT3100 which had powder-coated aluminum tops. You said you have a 1993-94 vintage BT3000 which is consistent (model and date match).
After the anodizing, the tops of the BT3000 ribs were machined flat and left bare. In contrast, the BT3100 was not further machined leaving powder coated rib tops.

One difficulty in cleaning the tops is that the ridges prevent you from getting in between so its hard to get a good polish on the bottom part.

For your BT3000, I would guess a metal polish would not hurt it any. You'll have to use a toothbrush to get between the ribs to polish then clean it off, its going to be tedious. I would then clean the rib tops, if it had any oxidation or gunk on it, by sanding lightly with a like 220 grit. Don't sand to remove any material, Being machine-flat, any oxidation or dirt should stick up and be removed quickly. by just light sanding.
Wipe off to remove all dust and debris, then use non-silicone paste wax (like Johnson's paste wax) to coat the rib tops and channels and keep it clean and oxide free ( the unfinished ribs when oxidized can sometimes leave some black marks on wood). Repeat the JPW treatment from time to time.

[cabinetman]

A white automotive polishing compound should be mildly abrasive enough, but not too acidic. You can treat the clean top with Top Cote.

.

[fishtails]

Thanks everyone for the feedback. I believe I'll start off with the 220 grit and see how that does and then go from there. My saw is the 13 AMP, so one of the very early ones for sure. Really all I wanted at first was to give it a good cleaning and lube, check the shims, etc, then put it back together and into service but thought what the heck, if I can make it look almost brand new then why not. If it turns out good I'll throw a before and after pic up to show. Thanks again.

Mark

[mpc]

If the exposed aluminum is just a little dull - not really corroded or otherwise chemically contaminated - try rubbing it with a fat pencil eraser like the old "Pink Pearl" ones or the harder erasers designed for ink. That takes off the outer oxidized layer of soft metals fairly quickly and with virtually no risk of over-doing it, damage, scratches, etc. I use erasers to clean copper and gold contacts on electrical connections, model train tracks, etc. Works amazingly well.

If that doesn't do it, then a fine abrasive. I too have an early 13 amp BT3000 with the exposed aluminum ribs on top, separated by painted valleys. Erasers and fine sandpaper wrapped around a small wood block are all I've ever needed. I always finish with a coat of Johnson's paste wax. Don't use automotive/car wax; that has silicon in it which will contaminate wood... leading to all sorts of problems when you try to apply the finish. Johnson's is sold in the furniture cleaning/polish section of the big-box hardware stores; last time I bought some it came in a yellow can.

mpc